Newbie questions...am I doing this correctly? Tips?

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screaminDOHC

New Member
Dec 1, 2010
10
Detroit MI
First off, I apologize for the newbie questions....
I just got my first wood burning insert a few weeks ago. So far, I love it. Heating a 1100sq ft home with a Napoleon 1101 Fireplace insert. Been burning well seasoned ash. My question is, what is the best procedure/timing for betting the stove up to temp, and at what point to you start pulling the damper closed? I'm sure it is different for every insert, but is there a rule of thumb?
I've been trying to get the stove to at least 400 before I really put decent sized splits in.

How full do you people usually fill the firebox? I'll put one or two medium sized splits in, which does not totally fill up the firebox, and those will burn for, 2.5-3 hours. How are people getting 7+ hours of burn time? Are you cramming the stove totally full?

Also, what *should* it look like when it's burning nice and slow. Should it look like an inferno? The way I've been doing it, the flames have been pretty minimal...is that good or bad? I just don't want to be causing buildup in the flue, or wasting wood. The whole point of the purchase was for efficiency...

Sorry to bore you with my questions!

Thanks!

BTW, here it is right after installation
154891_1756562318746_1379617414_31966103_223106_n.jpg


Here was the first fire
76458_1755682016739_1379617414_31964170_4091024_n.jpg
 
Burn times depend on wood type, how well seasoned, size of firebox, design of equipment, many factors play into that. If you compare numbers just make sure it is apples to apples.

I am unfamiliar with your insert so.... I will leave that to the experts.
 
Congrats, and welcome.

i would say by the picture that you have a decent fire, large coal bed but looks like its burning well.
To answer the one question, few splits spaced apart is what can be referred to as a flash fire, great for shoulder season when you dont need gobs of heat. these fires dont last very long, about the 2-3 hours you mentioned. The 7 hour burns are yes, at least for me, packed to the gills. You cant simply load and go, you still would want to get the pieces lit off, then dial the air back. eventually you should reach nice cruising temps and see a long burn time. I would recommend trying this when you are going to be around/in front of the stove to see whats going on, that way you can do it safely and effectively. do it while watching a football game, or movie something like that. If you do it right, you may just be mesmerized enough to be satisfied with watching the fire!
 
Stump_Branch said:
Congrats, and welcome.

i would say by the picture that you have a decent fire, large coal bed but looks like its burning well.
To answer the one question, few splits spaced apart is what can be referred to as a flash fire, great for shoulder season when you dont need gobs of heat. these fires dont last very long, about the 2-3 hours you mentioned. The 7 hour burns are yes, at least for me, packed to the gills. You cant simply load and go, you still would want to get the pieces lit off, then dial the air back. eventually you should reach nice cruising temps and see a long burn time. I would recommend trying this when you are going to be around/in front of the stove to see whats going on, that way you can do it safely and effectively. do it while watching a football game, or movie something like that. If you do it right, you may just be mesmerized enough to be satisfied with watching the fire!
Click to expand...

Hmmm...might anyone have a picture of the packed to the gills, cruizing temp burn? :) I feel like I'm just reloading the stove every 2 hours or so....I am fixated by it though. My wife keeps telling me to leave it alone...seems like I'm always looking, and adjusting things. Not sure if I should be messing with it once it's going (probably not lol).

Thanks!
 
I like to get to my target temp and let it stay there for quite a while to make sure all the wood is well engulfed, before I start dialing back. You can reach your target of 400 quickly but if you start cutting back right away you're going to end up with a low heat, smoldering fire. Find out what your max temps for your stove are. You probably can get a much higher temp. 400 seems kind of low to be cutting back.
 
A warm welcome from another newbie here too!

I've been using my woodburner for just a month now since we switched from an open fire.
The difference in techniques for firing a woodburner compared to an open fire are incredible, and this forum is certainly the right place for questions.

And it's great when others ask the questions you never even thought of!!!!!!!!!
 
Kenster said:
I like to get to my target temp and let it stay there for quite a while to make sure all the wood is well engulfed, before I start dialing back. You can reach your target of 400 quickly but if you start cutting back right away you're going to end up with a low heat, smoldering fire. Find out what your max temps for your stove are. You probably can get a much higher temp. 400 seems kind of low to be cutting back.
Click to expand...

Interesting....I had it up to 525 one time...but to get it there, I kept feeding kindling and pallet wood into it. Where should the airflow be when getting up to operating temp? I don't think it should be fully open, as it seems like you'd be burning the wood too rapidly, but I could be wrong...and you are right...I'd get it to 400 and cut the air back to the lowest setting after about 30 min, and you are right, ended up with a smoldering fire. The temp would stay around 400 +/- 20 degrees, but didn't seem like it was really putting out the heat. I'll take any help I can get!!!!!
 
screaminDOHC said:
Kenster said:
I like to get to my target temp and let it stay there for quite a while to make sure all the wood is well engulfed, before I start dialing back. You can reach your target of 400 quickly but if you start cutting back right away you're going to end up with a low heat, smoldering fire. Find out what your max temps for your stove are. You probably can get a much higher temp. 400 seems kind of low to be cutting back.
Click to expand...

Interesting....I had it up to 525 one time...but to get it there, I kept feeding kindling and pallet wood into it. Where should the airflow be when getting up to operating temp? I don't think it should be fully open, as it seems like you'd be burning the wood too rapidly, but I could be wrong...and you are right...I'd get it to 400 and cut the air back to the lowest setting after about 30 min, and you are right, ended up with a smoldering fire. The temp would stay around 400 +/- 20 degrees, but didn't seem like it was really putting out the heat. I'll take any help I can get!!!!!
Click to expand...

Um I am again unfamiliar with this insert but I will ask a stupid question. Does it have, and did the blower turn on ?
 
shawneyboy said:
screaminDOHC said:
Kenster said:
I like to get to my target temp and let it stay there for quite a while to make sure all the wood is well engulfed, before I start dialing back. You can reach your target of 400 quickly but if you start cutting back right away you're going to end up with a low heat, smoldering fire. Find out what your max temps for your stove are. You probably can get a much higher temp. 400 seems kind of low to be cutting back.
Click to expand...

Interesting....I had it up to 525 one time...but to get it there, I kept feeding kindling and pallet wood into it. Where should the airflow be when getting up to operating temp? I don't think it should be fully open, as it seems like you'd be burning the wood too rapidly, but I could be wrong...and you are right...I'd get it to 400 and cut the air back to the lowest setting after about 30 min, and you are right, ended up with a smoldering fire. The temp would stay around 400 +/- 20 degrees, but didn't seem like it was really putting out the heat. I'll take any help I can get!!!!!
Click to expand...

Um I am again unfamiliar with this insert but I will ask a stupid question. Does it have, and did the blower turn on ?
Click to expand...

My mistake. It's getting my living room to 70-72 degrees pretty easily, but I'd imagine if I can get the stove temp up higher it should be more significant.

Yes it has a blower, and yes it turns on. We live in an 1100 sq ft bungalow, attempting to get the heat to the upstairs, but trying to get a hang of the insert first...
 
Often the smoldering fire that produces less heat is a wood issue. Is it seasoned? Did you buy it ? If not purchased, when did you split it? What species of wood?
 
shawneyboy said:
screaminDOHC said:
Kenster said:
I like to get to my target temp and let it stay there for quite a while to make sure all the wood is well engulfed, before I start dialing back. You can reach your target of 400 quickly but if you start cutting back right away you're going to end up with a low heat, smoldering fire. Find out what your max temps for your stove are. You probably can get a much higher temp. 400 seems kind of low to be cutting back.
Click to expand...

Interesting....I had it up to 525 one time...but to get it there, I kept feeding kindling and pallet wood into it. Where should the airflow be when getting up to operating temp? I don't think it should be fully open, as it seems like you'd be burning the wood too rapidly, but I could be wrong...and you are right...I'd get it to 400 and cut the air back to the lowest setting after about 30 min, and you are right, ended up with a smoldering fire. The temp would stay around 400 +/- 20 degrees, but didn't seem like it was really putting out the heat. I'll take any help I can get!!!!!
Click to expand...

Um I am again unfamiliar with this insert but I will ask a stupid question. Does it have, and did the blower turn on ?
Click to expand...

I think my insert wouldnt put out hardly any heat without one. (side note, do you have ablcosk off plate, or stuff insulation in the existing dampener?)
 
Seasoned ash..yes I purchased it (I live in a more urban environment, so the only wood I can scrounge would be pallets lol)...I bought 2 face cords.
 
Stump_Branch said:
shawneyboy said:
screaminDOHC said:
Kenster said:
I like to get to my target temp and let it stay there for quite a while to make sure all the wood is well engulfed, before I start dialing back. You can reach your target of 400 quickly but if you start cutting back right away you're going to end up with a low heat, smoldering fire. Find out what your max temps for your stove are. You probably can get a much higher temp. 400 seems kind of low to be cutting back.
Click to expand...

Interesting....I had it up to 525 one time...but to get it there, I kept feeding kindling and pallet wood into it. Where should the airflow be when getting up to operating temp? I don't think it should be fully open, as it seems like you'd be burning the wood too rapidly, but I could be wrong...and you are right...I'd get it to 400 and cut the air back to the lowest setting after about 30 min, and you are right, ended up with a smoldering fire. The temp would stay around 400 +/- 20 degrees, but didn't seem like it was really putting out the heat. I'll take any help I can get!!!!!
Click to expand...

Um I am again unfamiliar with this insert but I will ask a stupid question. Does it have, and did the blower turn on ?
Click to expand...

I think my insert wouldnt put out hardly any heat without one. (side note, do you have ablcosk off plate, or stuff insulation in the existing dampener?)
Click to expand...

Good question, I had it installed. I can pull off the trim and take a look. I don't think there is any insulation OR blockoff plate, but I could be wrong. I'll pull the trim off when I get home from work (as the stove will be cold)....What sort of insulation can you use? Will that have an impact on room temps?
 
screaminDOHC said:
Seasoned ash..yes I purchased it (I live in a more urban environment, so the only wood I can scrounge would be pallets lol)...I bought 2 face cords.
Click to expand...


OK is it seasoned because the person who sold it said so ? Not being a smart ass, the reason I asked if you bought it was exactly for this reason. Many,many,many,many times what is sold as seasoned is NOT really seasoned.
 
shawneyboy said:
screaminDOHC said:
Seasoned ash..yes I purchased it (I live in a more urban environment, so the only wood I can scrounge would be pallets lol)...I bought 2 face cords.
Click to expand...


OK is it seasoned because the person who sold it said so ? Not being a smart ass, the reason I asked if you bought it was exactly for this reason. Many,many,many,many times what is sold as seasoned is NOT really seasoned.
Click to expand...
I was told that it is. And I am a newbie, so my perception may be incorrect. However, about 3 months ago I split about 1/2 face cord of maple, and this wood is 10x more dry, and sounds totally different when I smack 2 pieces together. I have reason to believe that based on my very limited experience that the wood is seasoned. I could be wrong though.
 
Kaowool Insulation
 
I am also new to burning wood this year. I have a Jotul Rockland C550 insert. I bought my wood as well and the guy I bought it from showed me how I could tell if the wood is well seasoned or not. I find when I put the splits in on a hot bed of coals, they catch quickly. Is this a sign of well seasoned wood? I am heating an 1800 sq ft center hall colonial and get the house to an average of 70*. My magnetic thermometer which is placed in the opening where the heat blows out usually reads about 450*.
 
screaminDOHC said:
shawneyboy said:
screaminDOHC said:
Seasoned ash..yes I purchased it (I live in a more urban environment, so the only wood I can scrounge would be pallets lol)...I bought 2 face cords.
Click to expand...


OK is it seasoned because the person who sold it said so ? Not being a smart ass, the reason I asked if you bought it was exactly for this reason. Many,many,many,many times what is sold as seasoned is NOT really seasoned.
Click to expand...
I was told that it is. And I am a newbie, so my perception may be incorrect. However, about 3 months ago I split about 1/2 face cord of maple, and this wood is 10x more dry, and sounds totally different when I smack 2 pieces together. I have reason to believe that based on my very limited experience that the wood is seasoned. I could be wrong though.
Click to expand...

If the Ash is 10x more dry than that is good. If you don't have a moisture meter, the sound test works fairly well. Should be a sharp sound when smacked together, or a bowling pin sound when dropped on asphalt or concrete. Not a dull thud. I will assume then that it isn't the wood. Now I will leave the other questions/answers to the other resident experts.

We now rejoin your originally scheduled program, already in progress.
 
I can easily get 8 hour burns. Here is how I do it. I may not work the same for you because I have a free standing Quadra-Fire 4300. I do this in baby steps. At about 6:30pm I load about 4 small to medium size piece in the stove. I let the burn hot untill I can tap them and they brake in to good sizes coals. Usually about 2 hours. Doing this gets the chimney and the stove good and hot. It also leaves me with a nice bed of coals. After the pieces brake up I rake the forward and give my stove FULL air for about 30 mins. This makes the coals really hot and I get some nice blue flames coming off them. Now is when I load up for the night. My stove only has a 2 cubic foot fire box so I cannot load much in there. I can usually get 4 good size rounds in there. Then I pack it with medium size splits. Now my stove has 2 air controls one for primary startup are and then the secondary with is used for normal use. After the stove is loaded I close off the Primary and leave the secondary open full. I burn like this for about 20 mins. Over the next 30 I slowly start taking the primary air down. The stove should be burning pretty hot so close the air about 1/8-1/4 of the way and let it sit. If all goes when the fire will from a blaze to a mild roar. If it doesn't and it starts smoking really bad and going out. I give it alittle bit more air to get it going again. I keep doing this untill I have closed off the secondary air to about 3/4 or alittle more. By the time I get to this part the wood has a nice "char" on it and secondary burn tubes are glowing and I have a good secondary combustion going on. Its now about 9:30 ish and I go do bed. By 6:30 when I get up the downstairs is still warm. The stove is still hot and I have a nice bed of coals for a quick re lite. I also make sure my first fire in the morning is nice and hot to burn off any cresote that might have build up, but since I keep everything nice and hot untill the wood is chared I have very little if any.

Hopefully that came through with only minor spelling and grammar errors. I will say this though the reason I do it this way is because I get sub-par seasoned wood and I like to make sure the stove is really hot while the wood burns off any sap still in it. Hope that helps.
 
Micah said:
I can easily get 8 hour burns. Here is how I do it. I may not work the same for you because I have a free standing Quadra-Fire 4300. I do this in baby steps. At about 6:30pm I load about 4 small to medium size piece in the stove. I let the burn hot untill I can tap them and they brake in to good sizes coals. Usually about 2 hours. Doing this gets the chimney and the stove good and hot. It also leaves me with a nice bed of coals. After the pieces brake up I rake the forward and give my stove FULL air for about 30 mins. This makes the coals really hot and I get some nice blue flames coming off them. Now is when I load up for the night. My stove only has a 2 cubic foot fire box so I cannot load much in there. I can usually get 4 good size rounds in there. Then I pack it with medium size splits. Now my stove has 2 air controls one for primary startup are and then the secondary with is used for normal use. After the stove is loaded I close off the Primary and leave the secondary open full. I burn like this for about 20 mins. Over the next 30 I slowly start taking the primary air down. The stove should be burning pretty hot so close the air about 1/8-1/4 of the way and let it sit. If all goes when the fire will from a blaze to a mild roar. If it doesn't and it starts smoking really bad and going out. I give it alittle bit more air to get it going again. I keep doing this untill I have closed off the secondary air to about 3/4 or alittle more. By the time I get to this part the wood has a nice "char" on it and secondary burn tubes are glowing and I have a good secondary combustion going on. Its now about 9:30 ish and I go do bed. By 6:30 when I get up the downstairs is still warm. The stove is still hot and I have a nice bed of coals for a quick re lite. I also make sure my first fire in the morning is nice and hot to burn off any cresote that might have build up, but since I keep everything nice and hot untill the wood is chared I have very little if any.

Hopefully that came through with only minor spelling and grammar errors. I will say this though the reason I do it this way is because I get sub-par seasoned wood and I like to make sure the stove is really hot while the wood burns off any sap still in it. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

I'll have to try that....
 
How much wood do you generally go thru if burning nearly all day? I'll start it up when I get off work (5pm) run it all night, put the last load in around midnight, then load again at about 6am, and let it burn down throughout the course of the day, so that I've got some nice hot coals still when I get home.

I took this photo last night. I got it up to 550 burning pallet wood, then started loading. I did notice that it burned better, and STAYED hotter when I packed it as full as I could (4 splits, it's a smaller firebox). I'm wondering if I can't compare my burn times to some of you guys due to the fact that this is a pretty small firebox. I'm imagining that would have an effect? When I had it fully loaded, and air cranked all the way down, it burned about 3-3.5 hours. Is that decent or no? I am kind of shocked at HOW fast I'm going thru wood now that I've been burning it more often (and why wouldn't I, it's in the low teens here in SE Michigan). Prior to this, we kept our heat set at mid/high 50's at all time because the gas bill was out of control. I have to temper my feeling about wood consumption with the fact that while it is costing me a bit more in wood, the house is MUCH more comfortable (68-72 at all times). I am beginning to think that is worth the extra cost of the wood. Wish I could scrounge up some free wood down here, but it's hard in suburbia.

stove.jpg

Firebox dimensions: 18" Wide x 12" High x 13 1/2" Deep
 
Howdy, I am also a newbie burning a Hampton HI300 cast iron insert, with a 2.4 cubic feet firebox. I am still experimenting (only been burning for about a month) and the best I can do is loading the stove about a half hour before I want to put my head on the pillow, and I mean jamming it full. Three splits on the bottom, running East to West. I use my poker to make sure that rear log is as far back as she'll go. I then do three more splits across the top, running north and south (butt end facing the glass). I fill any gaps with smaller splits. Let 'er rip for about twenty minutes with the damper open full, and then back it off a little at a time, in about three stages. I wake up around 5:30 to plenty of coals and my blower (linked to a thermostat on the auto setting) is still on, which means the stove is still warm. So that's about 6.5 hours, but sounds like I am using more wood (although my wood is of dubious quality) we anticipate better burns next year.
 
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