Installation Problem, ceiling joist (Pics)

If you need to cut a joist do so carefully and build a header box by useing a double 2x4 box in its place , resecure the cealing to this along with the thimble, if you are not accurate with a hammer you could use 3 inch deck screws instead of nails

The proper way to fix this is to cut a piece of the rafter out at least three inches more or longer than you need. Next is to install two header pieces of rafter material (they appear to be 2x8's?) perpendicular to the cut rafter. Each piece is nailed into the newly cut rafter and also into the sides of the next rafter in the roof deck on either side of the cut rafter. Assuming that the roof system is 16" o.c. framing, the header pieces should be about 30 1/2" long. The last piece will be a short piece of rafter nailed in between the header pieces in the same direction as the rest of the rafters. You most likely will have to remove some roofing nails in order to place any of the new pieces flat against the roof deck. If the snow load in your area is excessive then everything should be doubled up. The first rafter cut must be at least another three inches long. The header pieces get doubled up and an extra rafter gets nailed onto each of the full rafters that the headers are nailed into. I hope this makes sense.

There is another way to do this if all you need to do is remove the 1 1/2" thickness of the rafter. It is sort of a "Hackers" way. Cut the amount of rafter out that's in the way, assuming that you are only cutting about 24" out or so. Nail the longest piece of 2x8" rafter along side of the cut rafter that you can fit in the attic in one piece. It should be at least 10 feet long. Again you will have to remove roofing nails to get the rafter in place. This will work but it is not the best way.

RPK

Is a 30 degree offset/elbow out of the question?

Pagey said:

Is a 30 degree offset/elbow out of the question?

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Yes, He doesn't have enough height to make an offset work.

wendell said:

Pagey said:

Is a 30 degree offset/elbow out of the question?

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Yes, He doesn't have enough height to make an offset work.

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That's what I was afraid of, but I would be remiss not to offer it as a suggestion, even if remote. Hope you get it all worked out.

It is easy enough to move a ceiling joist. Messing around and fixing the sheetrock ceiling is another issue.

RPK

Manco51 said:

Im installing my woodstove and ran into a problem pretty much right off the bat. I have very little space due to a small ranch style house. Ill be putting the stove in the corner of a room and close to the outside wall. very tight, but my problem is the ceiling support box fits between the ceiling joist in the exact spot I want it but it hits the rafter that is on the inside. i want to move box to the right 1 1/2 inches by moving joist to other side of rafter and cut the old one. Can i do this? figured i'd ask here before bringing down the house....

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It seems like a relatively easy and safe job to me.

In your favor is you have a second joist near the one you want to cut, and the fact that joists are stressed most in the middle, and little at the ends--you're working in a low-stress area.

But you still want to do it right.

Looking at your first photo, first, I'd stop putting my tools on top of the sheetrock--learn from my mistakes. Put a board on there.

For the following, let's pretend your first photo looks north.

Put a brace under the joist you're cutting, in the room below, just south of the box you're cutting, about where your black drill is. In the room below use padded 2x4s running E-W on both the floor and ceiling, with an almost vertical 2x4 between them, just long enough that the floor 2x4 has to be a foot or 2 south of the one on the ceiling when you hand-snug the vertical one in. Then tap the 2x4 on the floor N until you have some good compression, but haven't cracked your ceiling.

Then make nice straight cuts to cut out enough of the offending joist so your ceiling box will fit, and finish the framing for your ceiling box by putting E-W boards N and S of your hole, between the remaining josts and snug against the cut ends of your joist to the N and S. Anchor tightly to the remaining joists and to the ends of your cut joist. Finally, sister the jost just to the E of your cut one, that you attached your boxing to, from the N end to 3x the distance from the N end to the S cut on the cut joist.

HTH, and good luck.

We get to do this next week for a customer. Putting in an open wood fireplace, uhg.

The wonderfulness of hand framed roofs. Have exactly the 14.5" I need on ceiling joist and rafters, but they are offset just like your picture. We could do a second offset but the min chim height would require an 8ft missile silo sticking out of his roof.

Manco51 said:

thank you very much, will do. and yes redoing the sheet rock i got to do since i ran into this and have to move it. not a big thing. ill take you advice and put a board up there so my tools dont go through and make even more work for me...

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Grrrreat!

Please reward us with some photos of your stove when you get it installed. Good luck! :coolsmile: