New owner of a Harman P43 Pellet Stove

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junegirl

New Member
Dec 9, 2010
3
N.E. CT
I just had this pellet stove installed last week. I did some research on the stove that was recommended, and purchased from a well known, and what appears to be, a reputable dealer. I have thought about a pellet stove for 2 years as oil prices are so rediculous that it brings tears to my eyes when I hear the beep beep beep of the oil truck backing in. In my last house I had an old (probably 70's?) woodstove that had been left there from the previous owners and that's all I used for heat. Due to the cost of a chimney and the mess of wood, I thought a pellet stove was an option. I was clear with the salesman that the only room I had for it was in an area of the basement which is unfinished, and asked if it would still heat the whole house. I have a small ranch, 1,000 sf, which is in the shape of an L with a one car garage under. The stove is away from the garage along about the middle of the back wall, which is right under my kitchen (other than where the garage is, the basement is below grade). I was told it shouldn't be a problem, and that a lot of people have their stoves in the basement. A site visit was conducted a week before the install, and again, no comments from the two guys that came out that this would not be a good idea. They took their measurements, and told me they would have to vent the pipe through the cement (not enough room to go through the wood where the floor joists are), but that this was pretty standard. The pipe goes up (about 5ft) and then out, 18" above grade. I was so excited when my new stove came, and when the first fire was lit. The salesman and the installers were very thorough about how to clean and care for my new stove, and I read through the manual just to make sure I didn't miss anything. Well imagine my disappointment as I sit here listening to my furnace kick on even though my stove is cranked up to 85 degrees and my thermostat for my furnace is set at 60 (not to mention going through 2 bags of pellets a day). I have yet to see an upstairs temp of over 63 degrees when running just the stove. And that's if it's during the day and the sun is shining. Granted it's cold, but it's only Dec. While I don't need it to be like grannys house, 68 would be nice. After plugging in some different key words than what I originally searched on this sight prior to my purchase, I found some of the negative posts about basement installs. It seems to be a very debateable topic. In any event, I have to do my best to deal with it, since with the stove, piping, installation, 2 tons of pellets & tax I'm in for $4k. And please, please, please don't say 'you should have known better', this will just be rubbing salt in to an already gaping wound. Science was never my strong suit, so I relied on the 'experts' to give me the facts. I am starting to shop around for an insulated garage door, as I know I am losing heat with the old wooden door I have. The heat is very concentrated to the direct area where the stove is. It blows at a partition wall with a finished room on the other side, and I've cut 2 heating vents in that wall (just wallboard, and the door of the stairwell to that room is always kept open). This helped a tiny bit. In the manual, it talks about a low draft voltage adjustment, which I am going to call the salesman on since a draft meter is needed (and in my opinion should have been done upon installing). Not sure how much impact this has if not set correctly. Before I start cutting holes all over my house, what other suggestions might the real experts have? I want to know what I'm in for, but break it to me gently :) Sorry to go on and on, but this has been quite a letdown.
 
If the room your stove is in has return air grills, you could turn your stove on "fan" so the fan circulates some on the heat to the rest of the house. Or use box fans to push air to other parts of the house. You need to get the heat moving to other areas, and get your house weather tight so the heat is not just going out windows, doors, ect. ...............
 
First welcome to the forum junegirl,

Bewarned that there be flying pellet pigs here about.

We sometimes are a bit unstable while in flight, likely due to being a pellet bag short on one side.

Basement installs require special care and planing.

Maybe we can help you first tell us about the layout of the house and the basement in particular the placement of the access to the basement. If the basement is unfinished we need to also know if it is uninsulated.
 
Welcome Junegirl! There is a vast amount of knowledge here on this forum, so take advantage. This is only my 2nd season burning pellets. I gather that insulation is the key to heating a house with a pellet stove. How well your house is insulated will determine how high and often you have to burn your stove. I have my stove on my main floor. From what I have read basements aren't a good place to put stove, but it seems like most people have one there. My home isn't insulated except for 8 inches of firberglass rolls in the attic. I run my stove non stop. I don't use the thermostat at all. I keep it on meduium low while at work. that keeps the house at 68 in the room that the stove is in and about 50 at the furthest point from the stove. When I get home I shut it down, clean it, and crank it all the way up. I run it wide open until I get the room that the stove is in up to 80 then the room furthest from the stove is about 68. So you can see that air movement is critical for heating the entire house. Obviously I don't move air well, I use two ceiling fans and leave them on low all the time. This is due to the layout of my house. I am burning about 2.5 to 3 bags per day under these conditions. Still much cheaper then propane. Eventually I hope to insulate my walls and cut the usage down considerably. I'm a bit of a penny pincher so I bought my stove 2nd hand and saved half the price of a new one. So far I haven't had any issues with it. Watching the propane truck drive right on by my house brings a tear to my eye. I have limited experience, but if I were in your shoes I would try to find a way to get that stove in the living quarters.
 
Short of moving the stove upstairs, your best bet would be to insulate the top 4' of the basement wall, replace the garage door like you mentioned, or partion off the garage area if possible. Get a fan to blow the hot air up the stairs. The P43 is a heat pumping machine, I know, my house was 75 deg. this morning and 15 deg outside. My house is a 100 year old cape and I only use oil for domestic hot water and when no one is around to put pellets in the 43. Basement installs are tough, but your stove should have no problem heating your house.
 
First of all, thanks to all for the quick replies! I started experimenting with fans as you suggest, so will see what that brings me (I did try running my attic fan a couple of days ago, but it was hard to say if it was doing more harm than good). I put one right in front of the stove blowing at the vents I put in the wall for the downstairs room, and one at the bottom of the stairs blowing up. I think I am going to put in a couple of floor grates as well. I have hardwood floors, but my house was built in '62, so we're not talking pristine here. On that note, I will say that the stove appears to be running just fine, so it is my guess that my house is more at fault than the stove. I have lived here for 10 years, and as I've tackled the usual array of home improvement projects, let's just say the builder was probably not a very good one. My basement is unfinished, but for one 12x12 room, and not insulated. The footprint is the same downstairs as up, 1000 sf each floor. I did put in replacement windows upstairs a couple years back, and that made a difference. My long term plan is to make better use of my basement space (and now I have more incentive). I really want to have a basement system put in as it does get very damp if I don't constantly run a dehumidifier in the summer months. From what I read, a thermaldry wall system not only helps with moisture problems, but would also reflect 90% of the heat from the basement back in to the basement, so perhaps that would solve two problems. Though it's a hefty investment, it's better than throwing my money out the window. In the meantime, to get by for now, I will look at insulating where my floor joists meet the foundation. I appreciate the suggestions, and I will hopefully be able to report some progress. I will say that the first few days I went through a bag of pellets every 8 hours. After playing around with different room/stove temp settings and feed rates, I at least have that down to one bag every 12 hours. Speaking of which, I better go check it :)
 
I have a basement install, raised ranch, sounds just like yours. My stove provides about 75% of my heat. This am, 12 degrees, and the heat was on, but since then its 68 in my house, no furnace running, and its only 27 outside with a cold wind. Ive tracked my oil consumtion for years, and ive cut down by at least 30% depending on the weather factors, but am heating more area ( finisheded basement) to a warmer temp. Its complicated figuring nout true savings, but im not as concerned with oil, and buy pellets off season when cheapest. Try doing that with oil.
 
The first thing I`d do is move the stove up into the spaces that actually need to be heated .
Exposed concrete will suck up the heat as fast as the pellet stove will make it. The only you got to lose is the cost of the install.
Those idiots should not have put the stove where they did. They just wanted to sell you a stove. Even if you didn`t have a good place to put it upstairs they should have advised you of the ramifications of an exposed cellar concrete install.
The only other alternative is to insulate the expose concrete and carpet the floor and then maybe you can move some heat up to the living space above. That`s what I do and it works pretty good but the stove works best when it is on the floor where you need the heat.
 
ok, so its cold upstairs, but what is the temperature downstairs? Could this be a problem of moving the heat? Agreed, as above, a pellet stove, especially one with only an output of 43000 BTU/hr should be up where the heat is needed, rather than the unfinished basement.
 
Thanks, and keep the advice coming. While I can appreciate that the stove would work better in the main living area (hind sight is always 20/20, is it not?), I still really don't have a place to put it, nor would I really want to deal with the fine dust from it. Oh, and did I mention the asbestos siding? I would rather invest the money to do what I need to do in the basement to better hold and distribute the heat. And yes, obviously these people were more interested in selling a stove, than having a happy customer. I guess I bought in to the idea that technology has made great strides over the years, so why wouldn't I be able to heat my house with this top of the line stove? Although I knew that the output was not the equivalent of a wood stove, I was expecting it to be adequate. And it's only 1000 sf, compared to 1700 sf (not counting the basement sf on either) that I heated with an old jalopy of a wood stove. The fans I set up earlier today are helping a little, so that gives me hope (thank you!). I don't give up easily, so I'm determined to find a way. After all, I really only need to bump the temp up about 7 or 8 degrees. I am measuring the temp downstairs and a couple feet off to the side of the stove the temp is measuring in at 80 degrees with the stove cranked on max setting (stove temp) and fan on high. I am finding that the stove seems to throw off more heat on the max stove temp setting, than room temp setting. I was really hesitant to crank it at the max, but surprisingly, it doesn't seem to be swallowing up the pellets any faster. And for the first time it actually felt like I was getting a little sunburn when I scraped the burn pot. That brought joy to my heart.
 
I have part of the basement finished where my stove is but it is only one room with another 1400 sq ft unfinished still. I had the concrete heat sucking issue and glued 2" insulation board across the north wall and about 8' down the east corner. Just doing that by itself made a HUGE difference. I probably could have used 1 1/2" and been fine but the 2" was on sale. I plan to eventually build a 2x4 wall in front of the foam board and sheetrock it. I probably 'feel' about twice the heat from my stove and that wall is 25' away from the stove.
 
Countryboymo said:
I had the concrete heat sucking issue and glued 2" insulation board across the north wall and about 8' down the east corner. Just doing that by itself made a HUGE difference.

I also have a problem with getting heat upstairs from my unfinished basement. It is a walk out and the interior walls are covered with the thin builder grade insulation that has the silver backing facing the room. This sounds like a great idea to cover the walls with insulation board. My guess is the walls are sucking up much of the heat which is one reason why the heat is not getting up into the second floor. My floors are covered with carpet remnents and padding so I guess that helps insulate the floors. I am not looking to heat the whole house, but to have a little heat coming upstairs would be great!!

After reading some posts in various forums I think that i have been using fans totaly wrong. Instead of having the fan in the basement trying to move the warm air upstairs, i need to have the fan upstairs pointing down the stepss forcing the cool air down which in turn forces the warm air upstairs. I may also need to cut some holes in the upstairs flooring.

I am brand new to this site and it really looks like a great place to gain a wealth of knowledge.

Thanks folks!!
 
In my part of the country where frost penetrates the ground several feet in the winter, you don't want to insulate the INSIDE of your foundation all the way to the floor, only about 1 to 2 feet below grade or the frost will crack your foundation. So roughly the top 4 feet of wall. During new construction foam board is used on the OUTSIDE all the way down. Foam board glued to the inside wall will make a huge difference, even just the top 4 feet of wall. Any one can do it and you can buy what you need at Home Depot or Lowes. It will pay for itself in short order.
 
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