Jotul F3CB: Height at top of horizontal rear exit flue????

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Intheswamp

New Member
Jun 25, 2010
819
South Central Alabama
I'm hoping, after figuring this every which way that I could, that I haven't royally screwed up my calculations.

Could someone who uses a rear exit flue with a Jotul F3CB give me a measurement from the hearth surface to the top of the flue just behind the F3? I'm looking for the actual bare minimum clearance for the horizontal flue to clear my lintel.

I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ed

Red lights are flashing, buzzers are sounding, I believe the last healthy braincell has left the building...
 
Timing is everything they say. I just ran across a very decent F3CB tonight, that will work for me if I can score it. I checked the Jotul sites, and did a "Google" search for clearances. So to answer your question, the centerline of the rear outlet/ vent is 22-9/16" from hearth surface. This is assuming you have the legs @ 8-3/8" in height. They offered a short leg kit, but I don't know what the height difference is. Your flue should have a min. 6-3/8" OD, assuming it's a 3/16" ring- could be thicker, I don't know. Your OD of your flue pipe is dependant on the manufacturer, can't tell you that but you'll figure it out. Do a quick search, you'll find the info. you need. Good luck, JB
 
tutu_sue, I hate to threadjack so soon, but how's your F3CB burn, and how many sq. ft. are you trying to heat with it? It's a good-looking little stove.thanks, JB
 
Ok, I think I panicked to quickly.

Reading in the manual (I've read it several times) I saw where it stated a minimum of 28-1/2" for the fireplace opening and it freaked me....??? Using that measurement with the short leg kit that drops in down by 2-1/4"....by this (according to the manual) then the minimum should drop to 26-1/4". Being as I've got a 27" lintel, that would shoot me in the foot being as I've got to build a hearth pad for the F3. But...

...according to the specs the center of flue is at 22-9/16"...adding 3.19"(radius of 6-3/8" pipe) brings the top of flue to 25.75" thus leaving me with 1.25" clearance to build a hearth pad with....subtracting for a short-leg (2.25") kit drops the top of the flue down to 23.50" which should give me plenty of room for hearth pad and a little clearance from the lintel.

Hopefully I've figured this right (again). :red:

tutu-sue...I've got the short-leg kit coming with the stove, but I would appreciate a measurement with either the tall or short legs. I know that manuals state specs, but sometimes real-life data shows a little difference. I've enjoyed your posts regarding your F3, yours, among others, helped me to make my decision to buy one. What's the longest burn you've gotten so far?

Beetle-Kill, don't worrying about hijacking the thread...if there's anything to be said about the F3CB I'm all ears!!! :)

Thanks,
Ed
 
Thanks for not nailing me Ed, I am gonna follow this thread for awhile. I gotta ask- are you installing the Jotul in an existing fireplace? This may change your clearances, but I'm not the guy to tell you what they need to be .I'm operating off of a free-standing stove, state of mind. (BTW- you're correct in the the 3.19'(3.188" to be exact)- but you know that this stuff doesn't work out to measure dead-nuts to what we figure it should. I've been giving my clearances at least 1/2" on all sides for minimums, regardless of the conditions. Keep me posted. JB
 
Beetle-Kill said:
Thanks for not nailing me Ed, I am gonna follow this thread for awhile. I gotta ask- are you installing the Jotul in an existing fireplace? This may change your clearances, but I'm not the guy to tell you what they need to be .I'm operating off of a free-standing stove, state of mind. (BTW- you're correct in the the 3.19'(3.188" to be exact)- but you know that this stuff doesn't work out to measure dead-nuts to what we figure it should. I've been giving my clearances at least 1/2" on all sides for minimums, regardless of the conditions. Keep me posted. JB

Morning JB. The F3 will be a hearth stove placed an inch or so outside of the lintel.

You might be interested in the thread "Certifiable nut looking for a stove (insert?) in south Alabama"...some early trials and tribulations of figuring if a stove would fit in my space. I guess I should have continued on that thread, but wanted this message title for the specific subject.

I hear ya on it not measuring out like we figure. I'm cutting it close and will be needing some trim shields and in all probability a mantel shield. At the rate I'm going I don't know if we'll be heating with it this winter or not...we'll see. :)

Ed
 
I can't even tell you how glad I am that this site is here, to pick up where the manuals drop out... Anyway I just installed new F3 as well, freestanding on hearth, brick fireplace behind. My clearance questions could not be answered by the manual - specifically, clearance to the brick lintel (flue exit to lintel, and/or stovetop to lintel)...manual had good info on alcove requirements, but this wasn't my situation. I have the (back of the) stove about 1" (max) just outside the lintel, lintel is no more than 4" above stove top. Gonna measure again when i get home tonight - going from memory right now. btw - using standard (6") legs currently...I will follow this thread..
 
It's an awful cute stove for sure. I have the F3 in my unheated, uninsulated basement. It's about 1,000 sq feet. That little stove is super easy to start. Keeping the air around 20% to get a clean burn temps in the low 70's in the basement. Heat also comes up the staircase for an additional 400 sq feet to 65F. That's using hardwood like red oak, maple and cherry. The longest overnight burn with fat splits is 7 hours for morning embers to restart without a match. Before I got a second stove and mostly in the 20's out during the day, I reloaded about every 3.5 to 4 hours to keep an even temperature. Now with a stove in the living area I reload more like every 6 hours to keep pipes from freezing and keep our hands warm while in the workshop or doing laundry.

I have a couple of tips based on my experience and to prevent overly hot fires: Check the glass retainer screws and the bolts (10mm) that hold the ash pan housing up to the bottom of the stove. After you've burned a while they might get a wee bit loose from the heat and let air in. If you use the ash pan, empty it before it gets over the top of the pan or ashes get skimmed off the top when you take it out and then get pushed to the back of the housing and prevent the ash door from closing properly. Note: I have gotten more controlled, longer burns if I just let the pan fill and shovel the ashes out of the door. When you put the top back on make sure it's level front to back and the exterior set screw holes line up with the holes in the retaining brackets inside.

As for the hot primary air slide, my hubby cut me a foot long stick of 1" x 2" from the stove crate. If I rest one corner on the stove I can pivot the stick and move the air lever with micrometer level adjustment. Neat!
 
It's an awful cute stove for sure. I have the F3 in my unheated, uninsulated basement. It's about 1,000 sq feet. That little stove is super easy to start. Keeping the air around 20% to get a clean burn temps in the low 70's in the basement. Heat also comes up the staircase for an additional 400 sq feet to 65F. That's using hardwood like red oak, maple and cherry. The longest overnight burn with fat splits is 7 hours for morning embers to restart without a match. Before I got a second stove and mostly in the 20's out during the day, I reloaded about every 3.5 to 4 hours to keep an even temperature. Now with a stove in the living area I reload more like every 6 hours to keep pipes from freezing and keep our hands warm while in the workshop or doing laundry.

I have a couple of tips based on my experience and to prevent overly hot fires: Check the glass retainer screws and the bolts (10mm) that hold the ash pan housing up to the bottom of the stove. After you've burned a while they might get a wee bit loose from the heat and let air in. If you use the ash pan, empty it before it gets over the top of the pan or ashes get skimmed off the top when you take it out and then get pushed to the back of the housing and prevent the ash door from closing properly. Note: I have gotten more controlled, longer burns if I just let the pan fill and shovel the ashes out of the door. When you put the top back on make sure it's level front to back and the exterior set screw holes line up with the holes in the retaining brackets inside.

As for the hot primary air slide, my hubby cut me a foot long stick of 1" x 2" from the stove crate. If I rest one corner on the stove I can pivot the stick and move the air lever with micrometer level adjustment. Neat!
 
It's an awful cute stove for sure. I have the F3 in my unheated, uninsulated basement. It's about 1,000 sq feet. That little stove is super easy to start. Keeping the air around 20% to get a clean burn temps in the low 70's in the basement. Heat also comes up the staircase for an additional 400 sq feet to 65F. That's using hardwood like red oak, maple and cherry. The longest overnight burn with fat splits is 7 hours for morning embers to restart without a match. Before I got a second stove and mostly in the 20's out during the day, I reloaded about every 3.5 to 4 hours to keep an even temperature. Now with a stove in the living area I reload more like every 6 hours to keep pipes from freezing and keep our hands warm while in the workshop or doing laundry.

I have a couple of tips based on my experience and to prevent overly hot fires: Check the glass retainer screws and the bolts (10mm) that hold the ash pan housing up to the bottom of the stove. After you've burned a while they might get a wee bit loose from the heat and let air in. If you use the ash pan, empty it before it gets over the top of the pan or ashes get skimmed off the top when you take it out and then get pushed to the back of the housing and prevent the ash door from closing properly. Note: I have gotten more controlled, longer burns if I just let the pan fill and shovel the ashes out of the door. When you put the top back on make sure it's level front to back and the exterior set screw holes line up with the holes in the retaining brackets inside.

As for the hot primary air slide, my hubby cut me a foot long stick of 1" x 2" from the stove crate. If I rest one corner on the stove I can pivot the stick and move the air lever with micrometer level adjustment. Neat!
 
bostock said:
I can't even tell you how glad I am that this site is here, to pick up where the manuals drop out... Anyway I just installed new F3 as well, freestanding on hearth, brick fireplace behind. My clearance questions could not be answered by the manual - specifically, clearance to the brick lintel (flue exit to lintel, and/or stovetop to lintel)...manual had good info on alcove requirements, but this wasn't my situation. I have the (back of the) stove about 1" (max) just outside the lintel, lintel is no more than 4" above stove top. Gonna measure again when i get home tonight - going from memory right now. btw - using standard (6") legs currently...I will follow this thread..

My horizontal pipe will be very close to my lintel...within an inch or so I suspect once I get the short-leg kit on and the hearth pad beneath it. I'm considering a small heat guard to mount on the lintel above the stove pipe...but there again, nothing there is combustible.

Did you get your liner situation figured out regarding the lined/unlined situation?

Best wishes,
Ed
 
ed i have more room than i was guessing - i am 4" below brick lintel (and a few inches outside it anyway, i'm not directly below). Sounds like your math is right on, and a heat shield sure can't hurt any. don't know your brickwork or fireplace, but generally speaking they can withstand some heat for sure. Depending on the brickwork, any chance you could remove a course of bricks from lintel? 99% of the time that answer will be a solid "no", but i know some brick guys that can get pretty clever about things..just a thought.
regarding my situation - i'll send a PM, i HATE threadjacking and that's what would happen here. Thanks Ed.

Happy Winter,
Mike
 
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