My New Hampton HI300

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Tom NJ

New Member
Dec 9, 2010
55
Burlington County, NJ
Hello everyone. I am a newb on the forum and with my stove. Do to the outrageous cost of electric heat, I decided to install a wood stove insert into our living room fireplace. While I wanted something that would put out mad heat, but looked more utilitarian, my wife wanted something attractive since it would be in the main room of the house. So, compromising, we settled for the HI300. It is a very attractive stove and really dresses our living room up. However, looks don't heat a room and this is a mid-size stove, where I really could have used a large one.


The layout of the house is a bit hard to explain, but it is essentially a split level dug into the side of a hill. This split level is set up a bit differently than the traditional. When you come in the front door, you are entering the living room which is about 15'x40'. The dining room and kitchen are to the left when you enter the house with the living room to the right. The ceiling in the living room is 10' high and open to the hallway, which is more like a balcony, across the back wall of the room. The bedrooms are at each end. So, when you enter the house you are looking at the stairs on the far wall. You can go up to the hall way or down to the basement which is about the same size as the living room, with an additional fireplace. The total above grade area is 2020 square feet. So, heating this area is at the top end of this stoves range. It keeps the living room, right by the stove at about 67, with temp dropping down to 61 in the kitchen, which is the furthest away. The upstairs stays at about 70. Mind you, this is only using the stove with a high today of 32.

So, my question is mostly to others with the same stove. How are you running your stove to reach the best btu output? This is my first stove and I have been burning it with the draft wide open all day since I installed it last Saturday. I haven't over fired it, yet. And, I do need to place a couple of ceiling fans in the room to push the heat down and around, perhaps then I wouldn't need to burn it so hard.

I have a hearth heater in the fireplace in the basement, but it is quite inefficient and doesn't throw off much heat.

Thanks.
 

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Depending on your draft and installation, the only things I can ask are:
Are you loading the insert full of wood and then running the air wide open? Or just a few sticks at a time? What are your burn times?

There are very few instances where the proper way to burn the stove is with the intake air open 100% full time.

The intall looks great and you bought a very nice product. Enjoy it.
 
I load it full twice a day. Once in the morning and when I bank it at night.

After the full load burns down during the day, I will load it two or three splits at a time. When I bank it, I load it with the bottom row laid side to side and the top row butt first and then fill in the spaces with sticks. I had read this in another post. Banking it that way and cutting the draft down to about a 1/4 will burn slowly for about 8 hours. I load it up at 11pm and at 7:30 the next morning there is a very large, hot coal bed with the log in the back still in log form, but all coals.

During the day, I will get about 4 hours of burn before I need to start adding more fuel. And this is with the draft wide open. If I don't run it wide open, the place starts to cool down.
 
Your house temps do seem a little low for that size stove and outside tempatures around freezing. Keep reading various threads on this forum to learn about insulation, block-off plates, quality of wood, air circulation ect. My guess is that you have a combination of things preventing you from staying warm. My insert is one size smaller than yours from the same manufacturer in a 1300 ft. house and it's plenty of heat. In fact, I really don't run it much when outside temps are above 40 because it's overkill.
BTW, I only have the draft full open during the first 20 min. after a reload. Then I cut it back to about the 1/4 you describe.
Is your wood recently purchased from a seller who said "Oh yea, this wood is seasoned & ready to burn"? It might not be.
 
I am getting cool air pulled up from the basement, as it has a regular walk up staircase and there is no heat down there, other than the little wood stove. The house seems to be insulated pretty well, but I haven't had any testing done. And, yes, I did just purchase wood that appears to be mostly seasoned, but once in a while I will get a juicy one.

For the past week I have been running it full tilt with the blower set to high in the manual position. However, after starting this thread I decided to run it for the afternoon in the auto position. This seems to be throwing off alot more heat, even though it isn't running constantly.
 
In order for the cold air to get pulled up, their usually has to be a convective path and negative pressure above. Is there a poorly sealed attic vent, whole house fan or a lot of recessed can lights that are allowing the heat to vent to the attic. Or is there an open upstairs window?

You might find this article interesting: http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm
 
Get it hot and choke it down. I have mine all the way down but litterally just replaced the door gasket after 5 years so I will let you know if its any different with tomorrows fire once it cures. The more you choke it down the more hot air gets in the home and the better it gets further from the stove. You already found out wide open pumps air out the chimney and pulls the cold air from downstairs. Its a learning curve... I choke mine down as much and as quick as I can to get the most heat...
 
Thanks for the input everyone.

Another question is, does one get optimal heating with the blower running in the auto position or the manual position. The auto position gives the hotest air, but stops frequently. Whereas, the manual position gives constant air that isn't as hot.
 
Great looking stove! It has always been our top choice, however we dont have $ for one. Can I ask how much did it cost You?
 
gregbesia said:
Great looking stove! It has always been our top choice, however we dont have $ for one. Can I ask how much did it cost You?

Thanks. With tax it came to $3155. That didn't include the chimney liner, which was $642. It was quite a few dollars, but I installed myself. If it weren't for that, we wouldn't have bought it.
 
This is only my second season with an HI300 but I would have to say if you're running with the damper wide open,your wood isn't seasoned. With seasoned wood you should be able to get a roaring fire going and cut the damper off completely while it pumps out heat. My HI300 struggles with less than seasoned wood and that's when I need to keep the damper open. I would recommend some advice you'll find frequently here--go get some kiln dried firewood bundles and see if you have different results. If you determine it is your wood, you'll find that splitting the splits smaller will give you better results.

I've also never had my fan turn off in auto mode unless the load burned down, or unless I threw some bad wood on a bed of hot coals reloading. If it's turning off and on during a load cycle then something's not right, IMO.

Good luck with the insert--you made a great choice!
 
That is still a great deal. In 2008 a place here in CT gave us a quote of $ 4700 (stove, 20 ft liner, installation)
In MHO this is the best looking stove on the market. Good luck with it.
 
Monkey Wrench said:
How long/tall is your chimney?

Did you install a block-off plate?

From the top of the stove to the top of the chimney is 23'. I did not install a block-off plate. Also, the chimney is in the center of the house.
 
Tom NJ said:
Monkey Wrench said:
How long/tall is your chimney?

Did you install a block-off plate?

From the top of the stove to the top of the chimney is 23'. I did not install a block-off plate. Also, the chimney is in the center of the house.

Did you run a s/s liner?


Also with-out a block-off plate I believe your heat is going straight up your chimney. 23' should be giving you a good draft.
 
[quote author="Tom NJ" date="1292047194"][quote author="Monkey Wrench" date="1292047028"]How long/tall is your chimney?

Double Post
 
The HI300 and I2400 share the same firebox.

I have never heard of anyone having to run it wide open before now. As others have said, the heat will go up the chimney wide open, which may cause the firebox to stay cool enough to keep the heat disc from keeping the fan turned on.

Its worth checking the heat switch and the bracket its mounted to. Make sure the heat disc is touching the body of the stove. I have seen the brackets slightly off in the past.

Wood would be my suspect as well. These units crank out nice heat for the firebox size.

Check the baffles as well. Make sure they are in place with no gaps.


Looks great.
 
Pull your fan assembly out when its cool. There is a little snap disc that makes contact with the stove body, bend it forward a little so it makes contact, yours is not. That way it will operate properly.
 
Ok. So, I bought a couple of bundles of wood from the supermarket today, to run a test against the wood I have. Gotta say, it definitely seems like the wood I have hasn't seasoned enough. The store-bought wood burned real nice, with big, lazy flames curling around the box and the draft shut down to a quarter. The stove immediately began kicking out some heat. Although, it is milder here today than it was the last several days by about 10 degrees.

Also, another thing to note is that the store-bought wood is split much smaller than the logs I have. I could get three splits of the same size from the splits I currently have. So, I am wondering if the shear size of the splits I have is also playing a part in the burn.

I, also, addressed the thermodisc issue. I pulled the blower and bent the disc forward. So, now the auto setting is working fine. When I had the blower off, though, I noticed quite a draft escaping around the base of the insert. As I stated previously, I had not installed a block-off plate in the flue. The surround came with insulation that went around the outside of the opening. However, because I had to get the over-sized surround, the insulation that came with it was short. So, I am thinking that if I stuff insulation in bottom sides where I felt the draft, I will probably solve that issue. The question is, what kind of insulation do I use?

As far as the draft coming from my lower level is concerned, I have identified a big culprit - the stove. The stove down there is probably 30 years old and the key damper that it has appears to be gone. I found this out because I had a fire going in it and was turning the damper back to retain some heat and found that I could close it completely without any difference in the burn and no smoke in the house. So, today I went down there and felt around it to see how bad the draft was and it is significant. So, for the time being, I am going to yank that stove and stuff the pipe full of insulation.
 
Glad you worked it out. I've found that the HI300 firebox is best suited to smaller splits to get the most wood into it. Even this year when I thought I had split small enough, I still find myself splitting smaller before I bring the wood in. Not that I mind--got a Fiskars yet? ;-) Two or three medium sized splits in the bottom and smaller splits to fill up the rest seems to work pretty well for me.
 
Good to hear you got it figured out.


Any insulation that i use is roxul.

I use it around wall thimbles to seal out drafts and in dampers as well, in a masonary installation. It will not burn or sag.

Works great and keeps the draft out if you did not use a plate and is easier to work with. Pack tightly.
 
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