Encore cat 2550 how is the Primary Air flap supposed to work?

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ColonialCity

Member
Dec 2, 2010
18
Pennsylvania
Tonight I fired up my Encore cat 2550 again. Ran out of wood at the house, so wasn't running the last week. I got bunch of well seasoned cherry from my dad today...
I got things going nice and slow, had 2 logs in burnt down into coals, then filled it up to the griddle.
Primary air control open, cat bypassed. 15-20 min like this to char the splits. Then engage the cat. after 5 min or so, flames die down, slowly close down the primary air in steps. After 45 min, I hear the stove making more noise. More air pulling through the thing. Temp is 575, but lots of air noise. I look behind the stove, and the secondary flapper is open pretty far.

I haven't seen this happen yet. The whole back of the stove seems pretty hot. griddle temp still 575.

I have only seen the flapper closed when the stove was hot in operation. Is it possible that the spring/arm went over center and lifted the flap?
How's this thing supposed to work?
 
I just looked at it again, the lever on the spring is at about 9- o-clock.
 
The "spring" is a bimetalic, thermostatic coil that will open the air supply when the stove cools down. After the bypass has been engaged and the room is at a comfortable temperature, move the lever so that the flapper door on the air supply just closes. It will self regulate after that.
 
From your questoin I'm not quite sure if you are asking about the primary air or secondary air?
 
BeGreen said:
The "spring" is a bimetalic, thermostatic coil that will open the air supply when the stove cools down. After the bypass has been engaged and the room is at a comfortable temperature, move the lever so that the flapper door on the air supply just closes. It will self regulate after that.

I'm referring to the secondary air control. The one that's on the back of the stove with the approx 6"X5" black metal cover held in place with 2 screws.

So I must have been in an overfire condition? The bimetalic, thermostatic coil was opening the air supply as the stove got hotter, causing the stove to get even hotter. I was up till 2 last night, using my mitten warmers to prop against the secondary inlet "flapper/gate" to keep it shut. (at least as closed as it will go till it hits the pin that holds it open)

I got a new stove top thermometer to replace my POS rutland. A week ago It has been burning reliable loaded to the griddle with large splits.

Now, I must have wood that is "too seasoned"?

What a miserable night! Can't go to bed for fear of waking up in heaven!

Thanks
 
I wish I could help you. I have posted several times about my VC 2550 and high temps. I have come to the conclusion that I just have too strong or too much of a draft for the stove. I battle temps of 650 with all the air shut down on a regular basis. I've leak tested, and had service men leak test it several times. I MUST run my stove with the primary air down all the way during normal burns and especially overnight or the thing will run away on me. I plugged the "EPA" holes which helped a little. I am now considering putting aluminum tape on a portion of the primary air opening in the back to reduce the air even more. Good luck and be careful... overfires can be expensive, I should know.
 
Ok, thanks for the clarification - title of the post (primary) got me confused.

The probe for the secondary air is supposed to be installed so that when the stove is stone cold, the spring attaches to the control rod at about the 4-5 o'clock position. That way it will close as the catalyst heats up. You can use a screwdriver to rotate it.

Let the stove go cold and check it. Its either not set properly, or that secondary probe is worn out. This is the part you need if its bad:

http://www.blackswanhome.com/product/secondary-air-probe-assembly
 
-PB- said:
I wish I could help you. I have posted several times about my VC 2550 and high temps. I have come to the conclusion that I just have too strong or too much of a draft for the stove. I battle temps of 650 with all the air shut down on a regular basis. I've leak tested, and had service men leak test it several times. I MUST run my stove with the primary air down all the way during normal burns and especially overnight or the thing will run away on me. I plugged the "EPA" holes which helped a little. I am now considering putting aluminum tape on a portion of the primary air opening in the back to reduce the air even more. Good luck and be careful... overfires can be expensive, I should know.

A couple of thoughts:

I've seen some posts here relating to too much draft, and a key damper was suggested. Maybe do a search on that.

You guys sound a bit wary of Encore Cat operations being hard to handle (potential over-fires). I'm considering getting one soon - this a big minus?

Thanks,

John
 
So I must have been in an overfire condition? The bimetalic, thermostatic coil was opening the air supply as the stove got hotter, causing the stove to get even hotter. I was up till 2 last night, using my mitten warmers to prop against the secondary inlet “flapper/gate†to keep it shut. (at least as closed as it will go till it hits the pin that holds it open)

If the main air flap is opening as the stove gets hotter, there could be a serious problem. As described it sounds like the thermostatic control is working backward.
 
I dont know about others, but on my 2550, once I got all the door and ash pan gaskets tight its fully controllable. With the air closed and the cat hot, it will cruise as low as 375 without a problem. OTOH with a full load you do have to watch it burning hot as you can overfire... and I have for short periods. I agree this stove is not as idiot proof as other stoves seem to be based on what members here have shown, so I just never let it run over 1/8 air or so if I'm not home.

To the OP, I strong suspect that secondary probe I mentioned is what you should be looking at if it is indeed the secondary air that's causing your issue.
 
On my Encore 2550 cat, to control the fire, after making sure the ash pan door gaskets are airtight, you absolutely must make sure that door truly closes properly. The door hinges have 'slop' in them and the door must be slightly raised before locking the handle. Otherwise, while the ash pan door seems sealed properly, a small amount of air will enter the stove and the fire will be very difficult to control and potential overfiring high temp. output could occur. I have a 30' 8" diameter metalbestos flue with a tremendous draft. But, the fire an stovetop temperature is absoultely controlable if the ash door is truly closed and airtight.

Closing the primary air will shut down the fire.
 
Thanks, guys - appreciate the responses. Sounds like these are not reasons to pass on the stove, just things to be aware of in its operation.

Cheers,

John
 
Initially, I was asking the proper operation of the secondary air flap on the back of the stove. I was getting too hot, over-fire conditions, and could not control the burn temp. Up to and including 700 griddle temps almost all the time. This was frustrating, causing lack of sleep, etc.

I removed the 6x5 black cover on the rear of the stove, allowing me to view the operation of the secondary air flapper. When the stove would get hot the bi-metallic spring/lever would rotate from approx the 4 O-clock position to the 9 O-clock position. This was causing an opening of the secondary flapper, bringing in more air when Its hot.

I called my la VC dealer asking about the proper operation of this flapper. When I told him my idea of installing a stop screw to limit, He said "it sounds like you're on the right track.

So.......

Here are some pics of the fix.

Drilled and taped a 10-24 thread machine screw to limit the bi-metallic lever.

I also blocked off the EPA air holes on the bottom of the stove. Now I can regulate the burn! I can now achieve long night burn times, consistent temp range of 550-650, and the Northern lights effect instead of constant flame.

Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to share my fix!

I now love this stove, and I can sleep at night!

Thanks all for the advice!



I added magnets to the EPA holes on the bottom, and in
 

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