NEW ALDERLEA T5, LOW BURN, WATER IN IRON WALLS AND BRICKS?

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The average tree log was about 70 ft tall.




How many times,The wood is DRY!!!!!!!!!!!! can you not see the numerous cracks in the ends of the wood, Split wood is seasoned in woods under cover for a year, we mark our piles accordingly. The wood is then put in the woodshed behind the stuff left over from the previous year or years.

At this time we have several cords of wood in the shed left over from last year and a few iron wood logs from several years ago. Plus several cords designated for this heating season that will actually be used next season or after 2011-2012. Provided previous years are used first! We keep our piles of wood labeled, but right now we are at around 2+ years after splitting and most of that is under cover in the woodshed. Plus the year in the woods cut to length and the tree was dead in the first place.

The wood in the photos I will not be needing until Feb at earliest I could have used it in Fall 2010 (1.5-2 yrs split seasoning). I have 2.5 cords in garage left over from last year I need to go through first, I just need these for all nighters. I also have 1.5 cords of Oak here at home for 2011-2012 so that keeps even more wood in the woodshed that will be available in years to come. We always have dead trees to cut. The wood pictured is for my stove the Lennox Montecito very efficient.

I had no idea how much wood we would need when I bought the stove so I did not want to empty the woodshed of stored wood so I bought some wood last year plus our own wood. I wish I hadn't wasted my money. The 2 cord of wood was short by almost 30% and lousy tiny pieces. Who splits a nice oak log into 2" square logs. Anyway, I had a total of 4.5 cords at house and only used 2.5 so I did not use any of the purchased wood. Now I am using it this year and it burns lousy I constantly have to feed the fireplace with wood with those tiny pieces of nice oak,ash and cherry logs.
 
Nice looking cabin. When you go up again, bring up some pine or other softwood if you have some. Otherwise carpentry scraps will do. Check the horz. pipe with a level. If you find it is dead level, lower the vertical by 1/2" or so, until you get a good rise toward the chimney. Check the chimney cleanout. If the door is loose and leaky, it will be hard to seal in cold weather, but perhaps you can cover it with a plastic garbage bag, then pack snow firmly against it as a temporary seal.

Then start up the fire. To start the fire, take two splits and lay them in the firebox about 2in. apart, with the wood parallel to the sides. Roll up about 3-4 balls of newspaper and place between the 2 splits, crisscross a few pieces of kindling over the newspaper, put a few more balls of newspaper on top of the kindling. Light the bottom newspaper in the front, open the air control, and leave the door ajar about 1". Let this ignite and leave the door open until you have a good conflagration in there. Add a split at a slight diagonal over the top of the gap and leave the door open with a slight gap. The goal here is to get that stone cold chimney warmed up so you will be leaving the door ajar until you have a pretty hot fire in there, good hot coals developing and the stove top has started to warm up. You can close the door at this point to check draft. If it is weak, leave the door open a crack. Add more splits, parallel to the stove sides, up to the top of the firebrick. Close the door once this fresh charge of wood has fully caught fire. If the coaling problem persists, rake them forward and put some of the pine on them.

Also, when you check the stove, be sure that the boost manifold is in place correctly. There should be a series of holes facing the bottom front of the firebox. You can feel them if you run your fingers across the inside front of the firebox, just inside of the door.
 
BeGreen said:
DALE SR 3 said:
If it does prove to be the chimney the installer ripped us off. He repaired and water sealed the chimney because a previous fireplace installer broke it at the house connection and also cracked it 4' up from the connection. We fired the 1st installer who swore and cussed at us when we told him he cracked the chimney. The installer should have noted that the chimney would not have worked with our fireplace and suggested a new approach. If we need a new chimney we are paying 3x the install price!
Click to expand...

Were any of these guys the first installer?
Click to expand...

AHH, there it is. My morning laugh. :coolsmile:
 
Dale, BG is right on as usual, you are going to have to either get that stack hot, and when the $$ is available repair improve the exterior chimney.

right angles dumping into an oversized (7" square) + exterior block + on the shorter side + cold chimney is more than likely the factors hindering the draft and thus stove performance.

Oh by the way, are you sure the wood is dry? (just joking)

I hope it all works out for you.

BTW, this cabin doesn't happen to be near the south branch of the ausable or pere marquette?
 
DALE SR 3 said:
How many times,The wood is DRY!!!!!!!!!!!! can you not see the numerous cracks in the ends of the wood, Split wood is seasoned in woods under cover for a year, we mark our piles accordingly. The wood is then put in the woodshed behind the stuff left over from the previous year or years.
Click to expand...

Easy there. Calm down. It was a simple question. Based on your initial posts, it sounded like you left the wood in the round for one year and then split it when you needed it. You have to understand that probably 95% of the problems diagnosed here end up being the wood. You'll indulge us if we start and focus there first.

It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.

Hope you get it solved.
 
Problem is with the stove/chimney in question being 250 miles away; every trial and error becomes theoretical (for the moment). So it's harder than most.
But "harder" does not equal impossible. A little persistence will make it. (I predict).
 
Pagey said:
DALE SR 3 said:
How many times,The wood is DRY!!!!!!!!!!!! can you not see the numerous cracks in the ends of the wood, Split wood is seasoned in woods under cover for a year, we mark our piles accordingly. The wood is then put in the woodshed behind the stuff left over from the previous year or years.
Click to expand...

Easy there. Calm down. It was a simple question. Based on your initial posts, it sounded like you left the wood in the round for one year and then split it when you needed it. You have to understand that probably 95% of the problems diagnosed here end up being the wood. You'll indulge us if we start and focus there first.

It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.

Hope you get it solved.
Click to expand...
There is two sides to that coin, sometimes the questions come from people who know what they are talking about but to no avail, you are an idiot until proven other wise in some cases.
 
Pagey said:
It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.
Click to expand...

That's what makes your help so laudable. I sometimes have to ignore a thread, rather than posting something critical. That's often a challenge, and sometimes I don't know how folks do it. Pick your battles, and know you are doing good.
 
Pagey said:
DALE SR 3 said:
How many times,The wood is DRY!!!!!!!!!!!! can you not see the numerous cracks in the ends of the wood, Split wood is seasoned in woods under cover for a year, we mark our piles accordingly. The wood is then put in the woodshed behind the stuff left over from the previous year or years.
Click to expand...

Easy there. Calm down. It was a simple question. Based on your initial posts, it sounded like you left the wood in the round for one year and then split it when you needed it. You have to understand that probably 95% of the problems diagnosed here end up being the wood. You'll indulge us if we start and focus there first.

It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.

Hope you get it solved.
Click to expand...


Pagey -

I do this more often than not - open your reply in another tap, get a drunk on, edit the reply on the open tap, THEN look at it in the morning. 90% of the time, I end closing the tab and not worrying about it; the other 10%, i usually "open mouth-inset foot"

Life's short, split a cord! Take a break. . . The silver ball is wild (ooops, other forum ;-) )
 
Pagey said:
DALE SR 3 said:
How many times,The wood is DRY!!!!!!!!!!!! can you not see the numerous cracks in the ends of the wood, Split wood is seasoned in woods under cover for a year, we mark our piles accordingly. The wood is then put in the woodshed behind the stuff left over from the previous year or years.
Click to expand...

Easy there. Calm down. It was a simple question. Based on your initial posts, it sounded like you left the wood in the round for one year and then split it when you needed it. You have to understand that probably 95% of the problems diagnosed here end up being the wood. You'll indulge us if we start and focus there first.

It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.

Hope you get it solved.
Click to expand...
I quit asking questions because of some of the condescending answers and now just browse hoping I run into some useful info.
 
Pagey said:
DALE SR 3 said:
How many times,The wood is DRY!!!!!!!!!!!! can you not see the numerous cracks in the ends of the wood, Split wood is seasoned in woods under cover for a year, we mark our piles accordingly. The wood is then put in the woodshed behind the stuff left over from the previous year or years.
Click to expand...

Easy there. Calm down. It was a simple question. Based on your initial posts, it sounded like you left the wood in the round for one year and then split it when you needed it. You have to understand that probably 95% of the problems diagnosed here end up being the wood. You'll indulge us if we start and focus there first.

It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.

Hope you get it solved.
Click to expand...
I quit asking questions because of some of the condescending answers and now just browse hoping I run into some useful info.
 
oldspark said:
Pagey said:
DALE SR 3 said:
How many times,The wood is DRY!!!!!!!!!!!! can you not see the numerous cracks in the ends of the wood, Split wood is seasoned in woods under cover for a year, we mark our piles accordingly. The wood is then put in the woodshed behind the stuff left over from the previous year or years.
Click to expand...

Easy there. Calm down. It was a simple question. Based on your initial posts, it sounded like you left the wood in the round for one year and then split it when you needed it. You have to understand that probably 95% of the problems diagnosed here end up being the wood. You'll indulge us if we start and focus there first.

It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.

Hope you get it solved.
Click to expand...
I quit asking questions because of some of the condescending answers and now just browse hoping I run into some useful info.
Click to expand...


Old Spark -

Sorry to hear that!

"The dumbest question is the question unasked"

I (we?) know that you just got a new stove, and want to burn it right/correctly/SAFE (obviously!); but if YOU don't ask the question, who will?


I've been lurking behind a "guest" membership, before I joined, for atleast 2 years, just HOPING something about my smoke dragon would appear. It did; but I needed to P.M. a user - no choice but to join. I still lurk more than help, (still inexperienced in/on a EPA stove [soon to change]) but continue to contribute as far as I'm comfortable with.

I'm a member of other forums, and THIS, by FAR, is the best of the bunch!

No flame wars, no "go 'google' it - it's been answered", no "tuff schlitz - figure it out your self", no "you only have a ZZZ, I HAVE an AAA" B.S.

This time of year, all the "beetles" come out of the wood-work - New owners of an EPA stove used to a smoke dragon; "last" year of the IRS refund and new to wood burning, etc. Just look at a 24-hr period of new posts NOW, than say June/July or so - Hearth.com has atleast TRIPLED the volume since the summer months.


I hope that you won't just be a fly on the windscreen.
 
RenovationGeorge said:
Pagey said:
It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.
Click to expand...

That's what makes your help so laudable. I sometimes have to ignore a thread, rather than posting something critical. That's often a challenge, and sometimes I don't know how folks do it. Pick your battles, and know you are doing good.
Click to expand...

I can honestly say that I was in no way trying to be critical. I was simply seeking clarification on how long the OP's wood was split and stacked in the dry before being used. When you're diagnosing a problem across the Interwebz, you start with the most common/obvious solution and then move on from there. That's all I was attempting to do. It is VERY common to read where people have left wood sitting in the round for a year and assume it's seasoned when in fact it's still just plain wet. I wanted clarity on the point and nothing more. Having received such, I will move on from this thread.

It's been a long week. Perhaps I took it wrong. I've switched jobs in the last 3 weeks, and I've been battling a sinus infection and a back problem. Perhaps I'm just sensitive.
 
I am a bit confused. One of your earlier statements said you won't sell wood that has lost it's bark that should not have lost it's bark.
Any wood I have ever cut, split and stacked has lost it's bark after seasoning. Not all, but the majority.
Maybe someone knows better than me, but what woods are supposed to hold their bark when seasoned or dry? I would think as it is dead, it would lose its bark?
Just curious.
 
Hogwildz said:
I am a bit confused. One of your earlier statements said you won't sell wood that has lost it's bark that should not have lost it's bark.
Any wood I have ever cut, split and stacked has lost it's bark after seasoning. Not all, but the majority.
Maybe someone knows better than me, but what woods are supposed to hold their bark when seasoned or dry? I would think as it is dead, it would lose its bark?
Just curious.
Click to expand...

Ash trees hold bark so do cherry even when they start to get pulpy on outer layers. Although sometimes they don't. Here are 2 samples I dug out of my stack. The cherry was cut dead several years ago I would guess about 4 yrs ago. Then stored split in woodshed for about 1 yr, because I have had it in my garage for 2.5 yrs now. The bark that is off parts of the log because it came off during me digging it out from behind the wood I brought home in Spring 2008. It is still very solid though.

The maple is just loosing it's bark and was cut about the same time I guess since it was just under the cherry. The bark would probably peel right off I tried to, wood is still solid though.

You are right though most of the logs do lose their bark so we do have a hard time getting that good looking log to sell, some people are very picky about their wood they burn up into ashes. We have boxes and boxes of bark that we use for fire starters.
 

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It sounds like we will have to run a new chimney sometime next year. We can check the angle of horizontal pipe when we get to cabin in next few weeks. Maybe if no snow on roof we could put a temporary extension and see if that helps at all to confirm the chimney problem. I will discuss situation with parents. They will not be too happy I am sure.

Will keep you informed
 
Pagey said:
RenovationGeorge said:
Pagey said:
It's getting harder to help people here anymore, it seems. I'm about to the point of doing occasional, casual browsing only myself.
Click to expand...

That's what makes your help so laudable. I sometimes have to ignore a thread, rather than posting something critical. That's often a challenge, and sometimes I don't know how folks do it. Pick your battles, and know you are doing good.
Click to expand...

I can honestly say that I was in no way trying to be critical.

Nooooooo! I was not saying that you were. That was not directed at you, but at the challenges we all face. This just reemphasized my point--that communication is hard, and sometimes it is hard to see the good intent. No harm done.

It's been a long week. Perhaps I took it wrong. I've switched jobs in the last 3 weeks, and I've been battling a sinus infection and a back problem. Perhaps I'm just sensitive.
Click to expand...

Fair enough. Please realize that this too shall pass, and things will look better. Feel better soon.
 
BeGreen said:
Dale, can you do a quick visual check on something? Your dealer should have removed the air intake knockout. If they are not used to installing PE stoves, they may have missed this. It would be good to check. An easy test is to just pull out the ash pan. Does the stove suddenly "perk up" and burn more vigorously with the air control open? While the pan is out, use a flashlight to look at the back, bottom of the ash pan box. There should be a 4" hole back there. If not, and the stove responds to the pan being removed, that is a problem.

From the manual:
2. Room air supply - Remove the 4" knockout from the ash box enclosure. The stove
will now draw its air from the room through this opening and into the firebox
intake.
Click to expand...

So, if I'm using room air, there should be a 4 inch hole on the bottom of the ash pan box?
 
patrolman467 said:
BeGreen said:
Dale, can you do a quick visual check on something? Your dealer should have removed the air intake knockout. If they are not used to installing PE stoves, they may have missed this. It would be good to check. An easy test is to just pull out the ash pan. Does the stove suddenly "perk up" and burn more vigorously with the air control open? While the pan is out, use a flashlight to look at the back, bottom of the ash pan box. There should be a 4" hole back there. If not, and the stove responds to the pan being removed, that is a problem.

From the manual:
2. Room air supply - Remove the 4" knockout from the ash box enclosure. The stove
will now draw its air from the room through this opening and into the firebox
intake.
Click to expand...

So, if I'm using room air, there should be a 4 inch hole on the bottom of the ash pan box?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's at the very back of the ash box enclosure - I have 4" foil flex hose attached here for outside air.
 
MinnesotaGuy said:
patrolman467 said:
BeGreen said:
Dale, can you do a quick visual check on something? Your dealer should have removed the air intake knockout. If they are not used to installing PE stoves, they may have missed this. It would be good to check. An easy test is to just pull out the ash pan. Does the stove suddenly "perk up" and burn more vigorously with the air control open? While the pan is out, use a flashlight to look at the back, bottom of the ash pan box. There should be a 4" hole back there. If not, and the stove responds to the pan being removed, that is a problem.

From the manual:
2. Room air supply - Remove the 4" knockout from the ash box enclosure. The stove
will now draw its air from the room through this opening and into the firebox
intake.
Click to expand...

So, if I'm using room air, there should be a 4 inch hole on the bottom of the ash pan box?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's at the very back of the ash box enclosure - I have 4" foil flex hose attached here for outside air.
Click to expand...

Okay, I believe that I have found it. It is a round circular hole in the bottom of the ash pan box toward the back. You can see it if you just look under the stove. It is actually behind the rear of the ash pan. When I remove my ash pan and look in there I can see a divider piece. The round hole is behind that.
 
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