Help Help Help. Wife is freezing

Here I am again still looking for some additional help on Installing my EKO 40. I am still not sure where I need to install Check Valves, Backflow Preventers, Pressure Guages, Temperature Gauges and such.

I have revised my drawing since my last post so my mixing valve isn’t before the storage, and after re-reading replies from my november posts, I think I need to connect my 1-1/4†supply from the wood boiler to the electric boiler so when the house isn’t demanding heat, the wood boiler can push the heated water thru the electric boiler into the storage. Hopefully,someone can confirm or deny this.

I am actually hoping that someone will actually print out my drawing and pencil in exactly where I need to put my pumps, check valves, backflow preventers, aquastats etc, and then repost or email me directly. I am not afraid to do the work, I just lack the confidence to make the decisions.

I have reviewed nofossil’s “Simplified Plumbing with Storage†and have found it very helpful, but lacks detailed info as to where to put these items, or even if they are needed. Also, the location of my storage relative to my boilers is not the same as in the sketches in this chat room.

I also have a qestion on the Taco pump that was provided with my install kit. I noticed that the flange kit is 1-1/4†which is what most of my system is, however, it appears that the opening on the pump is about 3/4†to 1†diameter. Is this supposed to be this way?

If I choose to use 4 circ pumps instead of zone valves, can I eliminate the other pumps? Which is better?

Looking forward to anyone’s input.

Thanks Benjamin for the response. The original boiler (electric) did not have a backflow preventer, but I will add one to the 1/2" supply that feeds both boilers.

Do you have any recommendations for locations for temp/pressure gauges. I'm frankly really not sure what you mean by "how I'm going to control the system." I haven't given much thought to controllers, battery back-up, and dump zones just yet.

I figured the "ladder" would confuse some people. The electric boiler has four zones but only one thermostat. My plan was to use hook the EKO to the four zones, but put thermostats in each of the four zones that would only control the EKO. This thinking was based on the idea that the electric boiler would only be used on rare occasions. However, I think this design will cause problems when the EKO is running and not heating the house. I think I may not be able to heat my storage with this design. Or am I way off base?

Your input is a Godsend.

Thanks guys for the input. I attached a crude sketch of the zone piping where the EKO and electric boiler connect to the zone piping. I'm not even sure if changes anything.

Right now the electric boiler is the only thing up and running. My tanks are in place and I am starting to connect all of the copper to the tanks and working my way to the EKO from the storage.

RobC, You asked about the ability to move my boilers and such. Unfortunately, that can't happen. My electric boiler is existing, and mounted on the wall. The EKO is directly to the left and replaced an old woodburner. It is as close as I could get it to the chimney. To the left of the EKO are the storage tanks. These are against a wall, and seperated from the EKO by a doorway.

Another question about the circulators. Should I use Zone valves instead of circulators? I'm starting to lean that way.

Here is a pic that shows my setup. The grey box on the lower right corner is my electric boiler.

Yeah guys, the tanks are fine. Securing them is the only thing that I have engineered correctly. Couple of treated 4x4s, some all-thread with washers and nuts and a few concrete anchors. No sense in fretting about them until I'm actually able to fill them with water. lol!

OK guys, I posted a new sketch. I incorporated everything that people have suggested. I am still curious if my "ladder" design will work now with check valves. I don't want to shut off the electric boiler with ball valves because I want the luxury of the electric boiler to function when I'm away or out of firewood.

I put alot of detail in the sketch this time. My next post I will post a sketch of what is already installed.

Rob C, I hadn't given alot of thought to an expansion tank until you pointed it out. I added it to my sketch. Do you have recommendations as to what kind, what size and where to place it.

As I mentioned earlier, I'm leaning towards Zone Valves instead of circulators. I noticed in one of the stickies that the Taco EBV only uses electricity when it opens or closes. Anyone know anything about these? Recommendations?

Thanks Rob, Benjamin, Taxadermist and everyone else for not abandoning me just yet!

Thanks Hunder, Thats a big help. Due to lack of room I want to put the smallest one in that I can get away with. Should I put another air eliminator in too, like I have on the electric side?

Thanks for the info on the expansion tanks. If anyone can assure me that the SX160V (86 gal.) will be sufficient, I will probably go that route. Pex Supply has them for under $500 including shipping. It will probably cost me every bit of that to hunt down a propane tank, drive and get it and make modifications.

Well I wouldn't say money is not an issue, but the $500 is just a drop in the bucket for what I already got in it. I hadn't gave much thought on the expansion tank until recently. I was gonna just put a 2 gallon one on with an air eliminator, like I put on the elec boiler, but caught this potentially disastrous mistake thanks to you fine folks. Now with that being said, I rather focus on the rest of the system so the factory made bladder tank actually seems like a shortcut to me despite the fact I was raised to "make" everything I needed. The factory tank seems like it may be less maint down the road.

Hopefully one of you can confirm that the SX160V (86 gal) tank will be adequate for my system before I throw down the credit card. I have 990 gal pressurized storage plus maybe another 75 gals or so in the system. I also have a small exp tank on the elec boiler.