smoke problems on reload

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lumbajac

Member
Mar 15, 2008
85
Upper Peninsula, Michigan
I'm in my second year of burning with an RSF Opel III and all has been going well. I burn 24/7 Halloween through mid-March. Natural gas bill for the past month (in Upper Michigan past month has been quite cold) was $30... includes N.G. hot water, furnace, and dryer. So, about $5-$10 more than what we pay in the summer for dryer, hot water, and just to keep the gas on.

However, for the past 3 days or so it has been nearly impossible to load the fireplace becuase when I open the door to do so, I get a billow of smoke rushing out the front rather than up the chimney. I have never had this problem with the RSF. I'm wondering if it is something to do with our current weather pattern or what? It is so bad that I am considering shutting down until the weather changes? Every time I reload, the smoke alarms go off, and I must run the air exchanger full tilt for an hour to clear the smoke smell.

Last year I burned a CSL log once a month simply for peace of mind; but was trying to avoid them this year as they are quite expensive. Didn't clean the chimney til this Fall and ended up with about 4 cups of creosote/ash from about 30' of chimney with two 30 degree elbows... that was quite impressive in my opinion after a previous winter of burning subpar firewood.

So, I burned a CSL last night (becasue they were on sale) and cleaned the ash out this morning - same thing again an hour ago with trying to add wood to the fire. So now I have a rip roaring fire going to heat the chimney up; gonna let it cool through the day; then sweep it tonight for Santa. In a way, hopefully I pull some creosote or something out and this solves the problem - but then again, hopefully I haven't been producing creosote as I have been burning 18 month seasoned maple, oak, and birch this year - and burning it quite well with little fireplace window blackening only around edges.

Any thoughts on the smoke problem?

NOTE: just checked weather data from station about 1/4 mile from my house: barometer = 30.38 in Hg; humidity = 96% (light sugary snow falling); temp = 24.7 F.

Thanks.
 
1. Check your chimney cap, make sure it is not full of creo...

2. is there a window opened in an upper level of your even just cracked when you are reloading?

3. Is the air exchanger/ bath vent or heater running when reloading?
 
Did you clean the pipe from stove to the top? Maybe some stuff got piled up in there somewhere. Maybe give it another run through with the brush and a little flashlight work to make sure all is clear.
 
For sure check to make sure exhaust fans are not operating when you open the stove door. Also a clothes drier will have adverse affect.

Before opening the firebox door, are you opening the draft to full open? You should be doing that 2-3 minutes before opening the door. Or maybe you are also letting the stove cool too much before reloading?

I would worry a bit about that oak. If it were me I'd wait another year on that. Maple and birch should be okay. However, when you say 18 month old wood, is that 18 months since it was split and stacked outdoors? We never count any drying time until the wood has been split because it dries so little in the round.

You wrote, "So, I burned a CSL last night (becasue they were on sale) and cleaned the ash out this morning - same thing again an hour ago with trying to add wood to the fire." Does this mean you are cleaning out the ashes after every fire of daily? If so, you should not. We clean at most every 4th day (less often most of the time) and always leave about 2" of ash in the stove after cleaning. Also, we do not let the stove get cold before emptying ashes. We simply move coals to one side, scoop some ashes, move the coals again and finish the job.

Also, are you having the draft open full when starting the stove or on reloads? This is normal. We do not start dialing down the draft until the wood is well charred. Then usually turn the draft down in increments.

Finally, yes the weather can affect how the stove burns but it is usually easy to adjust the burning habits. One usually has to give a bit more draft.
 
I've had this problem but not to as bad. Some of the things I'm trying to do to make it better: Open damper and possibly crack door for a few minutes prior to reloading to get a strong charge of hot air up the flue that will create the strongest draft possible. Crack window at lower level to try and help draft.

I don't have a sure-fire fix yet. I'm only reloading with a big bed of coals (need lots of coals for my not-seasoned-enough wood) so I'm not actually seeing any smoke, but can smell it after the doors are open for the 2 minutes or so it takes to reload.
 
All the firewood was cut, split, and stacked 18 months ago... the oak was split to no greater than ~4" splits to speed along drying while maple and birch was split no greater than ~6" splits.

I do open the air intake fully before reloading. Nothing out of the ordinary with bathroom fans or air exchangers or dryers or anything of the like that should affect the chimney draft... I only put the air exhanger to 100% the last couple of times AFTER loading because the smoke in the house was so intense, and thus set off the smoke alarms.

I last (and first time ever) swept the chimney early this fall (end of October I think) and then used the fireplace with no problems so I don't think my cap was inadvertently plugged.

Another thing I've noticed is that my fire itself is not visibly smoking (as it never "visibly" smokes as I burn hot), but when I slowly open the door I get a significant puff of thick choking smoke like I've never had before. I also just got back from having coffee at a friends house and we took note of how his outdoor boiler had smoke that was just hanging there. While we drank coffee and watched out the side window the snow changed from sugary fine stuff to nice thick flakes, and no later than that the color of the smoke coming out of the outdoor boiler seemed to lighten up and also rise much better out of the boiler. He too had noticed upon filling his boiler the past couple days that he was getting much more smoke billowing out the door when loading than what was normal. He also said it was lightly raining early this morning, even though surface temp was just below freezing temp... so the weather definitely has been odd the past couple days. I'm really thinking it's the weather.

I have hot coals remaining now and will let those die down as planned and sweep the chimney late tonight for Santa and see how it goes from there.

Thanks for all suggestions... will report back.
 
I'd get out there w/ binoculars and double check that the cap is plugged.

W/ that much chimney I just can't see you having pressure problems as it relates to the weather assuming your chimney is at least 3 feet above the roof penetration and 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet of it.

pen
 
Same thing started happening to me this week. Tried looking at the cap with binoculars but could not tell for sure if it was plugged. Climbed up on the roof took the cap off and inspected. Found the wire mesh (spark arrester) was clogged with dry black crud. Beat it all out with a screwdriver and reinstalled, problem solved.

My question is am I doing something wrong or is it normal to have to clean the cap during the heating season?
 
sixman said:
Same thing started happening to me this week. Tried looking at the cap with binoculars but could not tell for sure if it was plugged. Climbed up on the roof took the cap off and inspected. Found the wire mesh (spark arrester) was clogged with dry black crud. Beat it all out with a screwdriver and reinstalled, problem solved.

My question is am I doing something wrong or is it normal to have to clean the cap during the heating season?

And to piggy-back on that question, do you always have to put a spark arrester on the cap or can you put it down closer to the stove so that it stays hotter and doesn't clog like this? Since sparks can either come from the firebox plus too-powerful draft OR from hot flakes chipping/flying out of the flue, I assume you have to put the spark arrester at the cap only. I don't have one and need to know so I can install my own correctly someday
 
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