Rear Tire Chains?

Chains make a big difference on power equipment, tractors and snowblowers. A trick to get them on snug is, let enough air out of tire so you can get the chain on and clipped. When you re-inflate the tire, the chain ends up nice and tight and the tire won't spin inside chain.

JV_Thimble said:

I use a White GT-205 Lawn and Garden Tractor and a cart to haul things around in the summer. Useless in the winter, as there's no traction. Limited storage space, so not looking to get a new piece of equipment right now. Rather, I'm wondering if putting chains on the turf tires will be a big improvement. Would generally want to use them on the flat with a cart to haul wood around. Biggest challenge would probably be going up a slope from the yard to the driveway without a cart attached. No problem at all in the summer with that.

Thanks in advance,

John

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+1 on what Robc said, also see if they make them for your tractor with the v-grip.



zap

I run them on tri-axles and yard loaders and it's a night and day difference.
Can't comment on a lawn tractor but it can't hurt.

Big improvement on L&G tractors.

One of our farm stores stopped carrying any parts at all for tire chains, you can special order new chains but no parts to fix what you have, not sure that makes any sense.

^good point if you buy chains get some monkey links to make repairs...although with new chains you could be good for a few years.

I even put chains on our roto tiller when it had turf tires. Worked like a charm.


They will make a huge difference but I would not buy cheap chains. I recall buying some tire chains from Tractor Supply one time and there was so much space between the crossovers that they were almost worthless. Well, they did help but it was aggravating as the chain would just start to grip and then slip and grip and slip. You should get the idea.

Chains will work better than ag type tires. The ag tires will still slip excessively on ice and hard packed snow. Chains will be much better for that type of conditions.

I have several different length repair link/add on sections in my store if anyone needs some.
Ag or 4 wheeler tires will help some but like said hard pack and ice will be a problem with any tire.

http://stores.ebay.com/LEEs-Sawmill...?_fsub=3&_sid=299571036&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

I recently ordered a set of chains to keep ready on a spare set of wheels for my truck from these people:

http://www.tirechain.com/index.html

They seem to sell chains for most anything, and have all types from cables to heavy duty double link V bars.... Good luck!

I struggled to pull my wood cart with my lawn tractor last winter so put some tire chains on the rear. They made a big difference. LT was useless without them, could go a lot better with them. BUT, not knowing any better, I purchased 4-link chain. See my link below if you need a quick explanation of the difference between 4-link and 2-link. The 2-link gives much better traction. My 4-link tire chains slip a lot and I stalled a lot trying to go up slight grades with my wagon behind me. I doubt 2-link would have allowed the slip.

http://www.tirechain.com/Garden-Tractor-V-BAR-Chains.htm

wahoowad said:

I struggled to pull my wood cart with my lawn tractor last winter so put some tire chains on the rear. They made a big difference. LT was useless without them, could go a lot better with them. BUT, not knowing any better, I purchased 4-link chain. See my link below if you need a quick explanation of the difference between 4-link and 2-link. The 2-link gives much better traction. My 4-link tire chains slip a lot and I stalled a lot trying to go up slight grades with my wagon behind me. I doubt 2-link would have allowed the slip.

http://www.tirechain.com/Garden-Tractor-V-BAR-Chains.htm

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Okay, now I understand 4 link vs 2 link! I have 4 link.

Can someone point me to where I can find 2 link, or a brand that is 2 link?

Shari

I also got the 2 link v-bar set for my Cub GT with turf tires, and now I have no real problem grinding through some pretty deep snow piles while plowing. I may end up getting a set for the front too, since the front likes to slide quite often.
Had problems with losing air in the two front tires since I bought the tractor, so I got some of that green slime stuff.....end of problem.
Every time I went out to use the thing, had to air up. That was extremely annoying.
Ditto the advice to air down when installing, then re-air after they're on to tighten up.

Shari said:

Okay, now I understand 4 link vs 2 link! I have 4 link.

Can someone point me to where I can find 2 link, or a brand that is 2 link?

Shari

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Yep, definately get 2-links, worth the extra money for sure. I havent used the V-bar but if I were to get another set I'd give them a try. The link you posted about has them for sale...

As far as ag vs chained, for ice and hard packed snow there is no comparison that chains will work far better than unchained ag tires. Rubber doesnt stick to ice no matter how aggressive the tread is, but steel sticks to ice. You can do both, but to be honest chains work better on turf tires since they are more solid across the tread (ag tires have huge gaps) so the chain is kept pressed to the surface more. Ona chained ag tire there is no pressure on the chain in the big voids between the bar lugs. Now the difference isnt that big, as long as you have chains you should be good.

Chains can also help out with garden duty, I like running ag (or ag-like atv tires) for plowing and tilling the garden and mowing, but if money is tight and you already have the turf tires, chains will help in dirt too.

The next big step is weight! Chains make a huge difference but adding weight makes nearly the same jump in performance. I filled my tires with RV antifreeze and for the 23x10.5x12 I think I got about 50# each. The I put on some wheel weights, not sure of the weight, but any weight helps. I plan on making a mold and making my own weights out of cement.

JV_Thimble said:

As my tires don't hold air that well (noticed one is flat right now), I often need to fill them before use. Would I maybe be better off getting Ag tires - much more aggressive tread? http://www.amazon.com/TURF-23X10-5-...2?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1293199045&sr=8-2 Those I'm pretty sure I could get locally. Might be a bit harder on the lawn in the summer, though (must admit I don't mow my own grass, neighbor is very reasonable for that).

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JV Thimble... those should be decent tires if your looking for an ag tire (but dont forget they arent a substitute for chains). Hi Run apparently bought some of Carlisle's equipment including the mold for thier Super Lug tires, which were a big hit. When they were produced by Carlisle, they were a bit harder rubber good for heavier equipment and loader, where thier Tru Power seemed to be more popular amongst garden tractors.

Here is another website yoy may want to look at, http://www.tiresunlimited.com/specialty_lawn_utility.htm if you happen to have a discount tire nearby I have had some luck with them pricematching as well. I got a set of ag-style ATV tires (these: http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL TIRES/Cheng Shin/CS GBC ATV/chengbcator.htm ) and had them pricematch.

►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:

Shari said:

Okay, now I understand 4 link vs 2 link! I have 4 link.

Can someone point me to where I can find 2 link, or a brand that is 2 link?

Shari

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Yep, definately get 2-links, worth the extra money for sure. I havent used the V-bar but if I were to get another set I'd give them a try.

As far as ag vs chained, for ice and hard packed snow there is no comparison that chains will work far better than unchained ag tires. Rubber doesnt stick to ice no matter how aggressive the tread is, but steel sticks to ice. You can do both, but to be honest chains work better on turf tires since they are more solid across the tread (ag tires have huge gaps) so the chain is kept pressed to the surface more. Ona chained ag tire there is no pressure on the chain in the big voids between the bar lugs. Now the difference isnt that big, as long as you have chains you should be good.

Chains can also help out with garden duty, I like running ag (or ag-like atv tires) for plowing and tilling the garden and mowing, but if money is tight and you already have the turf tires, chains will help in dirt too.

The next big step is weight! Chains make a huge difference but adding weight makes nearly the same jump in performance. I filled my tires with RV antifreeze and for the 23x10.5x12 I think I got about 50# each. The I put on some wheel weights, not sure of the weight, but any weight helps. I plan on making a mold and making my own weights out of cement.

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Well, I'm sitting here now trying to figure out if I should add cross chains to what I have or just buy a new 2-link set. The set I have is showing some wear. I don't have ag tires with the bumpy tread like some tractors have. I have had a problem getting the chains tight enough but I think I have a set that was rated "one size fits many tire sizes". I do have wheel weights and do know those help also. I'm running a Craftsman LT4000 with a blower attachment in winter - in summer, chains are removed, weights stay on, and I use my LT as my wood hauler in the yard. I find keeping the weights on in summer stop tire spin in wet/dew covered grass.

Shari said:

Well, I'm sitting here now trying to figure out if I should add cross chains to what I have or just buy a new 2-link set. The set I have is showing some wear. I don't have ag tires with the bumpy tread like some tractors have. I have had a problem getting the chains tight enough but I think I have a set that was rated "one size fits many tire sizes". I do have wheel weights and do know those help also. I'm running a Craftsman LT4000 with a blower attachment in winter - in summer, chains are removed, weights stay on, and I use my LT as my wood hauler in the yard. I find keeping the weights on in summer stop tire spin in wet/dew covered grass.

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To get chains tight I did 2 things... first thing is I had to trim the chains down. I think I had to cut out nerly 6" of chain, even though the chains were labled for the size I had. Deflate your tire and get the chains as tight as they can get, then re inflate the tire. I went a couple years with bungee cords holding everything tight (well not really) until someone told me those tricks. Works like a charm and the chains dont hardly budge.

I hear you about keeping the weights on even when mowing. Same reason I run the Ag style tires even while mowing. The turf tires tore up the grass terrible due to slipping. Our yard is very uneven and lots of little hills. Turf tires were horrible. Ag tires will gouge for sure but only when they slip - and mine hardly ever do. I also upgraded the front to stop front end slippage, Vredestein V61's: http://images50.fotki.com/v1524/photos/2/229137/6918193/V61s-vi.jpg and plan on getting a set of tri-ribs, especially for snow plowing.

I attached a pic of my snow removal tractor... had the tires filled last year when I took the pic but no weights on it then.

Shari, The link I posted has 2 link and 4 link chains available. I bought a set of 2 link chains for my truck, and I believe they have the 2 link available in most sizes....

Thanks everyone - lots of great info here for my needs!

Question: What does anyone think about the necessity of having the chain tensioners? Our driveway is basically flat, no inclines, but we've been known to get 3-1/2' drifts that I have to get through.

Shari said:

Thanks everyone - lots of great info here for my needs!

Question: What does anyone think about the necessity of having the chain tensioners? Our driveway is basically flat, no inclines, but we've been known to get 3-1/2' drifts that I have to get through.

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Having a tight chain is important for many reasons. The proper way would be to trim the chain down to the right size (I cut 3 whole cross links out of mine, it was way to long) and do the deflate, install, reinflate trick. If you don't want to do the above method, then I suppose chain tensioners would help keep it tight.

►►OhioBurner◄◄™ said:

Shari said:

Thanks everyone - lots of great info here for my needs!

Question: What does anyone think about the necessity of having the chain tensioners? Our driveway is basically flat, no inclines, but we've been known to get 3-1/2' drifts that I have to get through.

Click to expand...

Having a tight chain is important for many reasons. The proper way would be to trim the chain down to the right size (I cut 3 whole cross links out of mine, it was way to long) and do the deflate, install, reinflate trick. If you don't want to do the above method, then I suppose chain tensioners would help keep it tight.

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What type of tools do you use to cut chain down?

Shari

Bolt cutters, chop saw, angle grinder with a cut-off blade (even a grinding disc if you don't have a cut-off blade), hack saw, sawzall with fine tooth blade, basically anything that will cut larger metal objects will cut chain.

Former Farmer said:

Bolt cutters, chop saw, angle grinder with a cut-off blade (even a grinding disc if you don't have a cut-off blade), hack saw, sawzall with fine tooth blade, basically anything that will cut larger metal objects will cut chain.

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...and you are cutting out chain from the center of the cross over and then somehow reattaching the two ends? What tool is used to reattach? (This is Chain-How-To Dummy Style for me! )

As far as the problem of always having to add air to tires goes, just put tubes in the tires, end of problem.