Any good sales on class A pipe? Also install question?

I bought my chimney components online at prices that were lower than the local stove shops were selling. I don't remember who I bought from, though...they were out of TN. Also, for aesthetic reasons you might go out the wall and through the gable instead of around it. You could snug it up with wall band, get the proper part for going through the roof, and you'd be good. Also, you might consider going through the ceiling and out the roof to keep the chimney warmer. I ran mine from my basement through my son's closet, through the attic, and it wasn't too difficult. You'll need to enclose it if it goes through another room, but that's easy, too. Finally, keep your clearances in mind. Good luck with the install.

I bought my chimney components online at prices that were lower than the local stove shops were selling. I don't remember who I bought from, though...they were out of TN. Also, for aesthetic reasons you might go out the wall and through the gable instead of around it. You could snug it up with wall band, get the proper part for going through the roof, and you'd be good. Also, you might consider going through the ceiling and out the roof to keep the chimney warmer. I ran mine from my basement through my son's closet, through the attic, and it wasn't too difficult. You'll need to enclose it if it goes through another room, but that's easy, too. Finally, keep your clearances in mind. Good luck with the install.

Hi Dave,

Midalake said:

Anyone find any good sales on class A pipe? Also what brand seems to go the distance?

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NorthlineExpress is a good place to start for info, selection, and fair prices on quality pipe. For more discussion, check out https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/66657/

Also on my install I need to go through the wall and my gable end eve is 3 feet. Any good ideas for getting around that 3 foot eve to mount to it? Can i use an elbow off set? Does anyone know of a custom wall mount? I DO NOT want to box the overhang off.

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No on putting a bend of greater than 30 degrees in Class A pipe.

I'd bite the bullet, and box 'er in. All the other solutions I can think of are more work and/or crazy looking and/or illegal and/or dangerous and/or poor performing.


EDIT: The cheapest safe and legal way I can think of to run an outside chimney without boxing in your eve is putting a 30 degree bend about 6" below your eve, and another at your eve--that would give you the offset you're looking for, if the you don't mind the look--to meet the 2-3-10 rule it would probably have to rise at least another 5'. Or you could mount your Class a in a separate chase clear of your house. Or run your pipe inside (best performing solution). Boxing in your eve would be a whole lot easier. Anyone?

I'd look for a straight up interior solution. Look at 1. roof trusses 2. Ceiling joists 3. Stove placement. Can you find a suitable straight line there?

BeGreen said:

Can you treat it like a standard roof penetration with roof flashing and a storm collar? And for sure the pipe will need to be much higher in order to pass the 10-3-2 rule.

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+1, I forgot about that option. That sounds like the most attractive and efficient solution.

Ventingpipe.com is stil running the free shipping promo if you ask for it.

Check the brands website. I happened to use duravent and the manual (including offset chart) is available on their website: http://www.duravent.com/?page=ts.php

They do respond to mail about tech support but they won't tell you how to do things A to Z. THAT'S WHAT HEARTH.COM IS FOR AMIRITE GUYS?

Seriously though you're talking about a 36" offset, which needs a rise of 76" (6.3ft, or about your height). Most brands are similar within a few inches, with a 30 degree elbow being the law, there's not much room you have to mess with it.

You could hack it if you had a rancher or whatever where you come out of the wall and immediately go from a T to an elbow but you would also need TWO support straps to hang it from the overhang. If you're OK with this, then you're OK. I personally would suggest boxing it in given the strap requirement.

BeGreen said:

There are solutions for all the issues you mention. There will be no leakage if the job is done right. They make a cricket for the snow and braces for the longer pipe. Still, without a doubt, the best option is straight up through the interior of the house if you want the best functioning, easy to clean flue.

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What's a cricket? I saw a tip in the Simpson install guide about putting a sort of a metal fin upslope of the flue to divert snow.