New Quadrafire Voyageur Question

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mpkimler

New Member
Jan 1, 2011
7
Oklahoma
I have been searching around the forums for a while now searching for an answer to my question and have found several good threads pertaining to an issue I am having with keeping my fire going.

Here is my setup. I have a Quadrafire Voyageur insert that was installed into a prefabricated fireplace. A stainless steel liner was installed inside the existing fire place liner all the way to the top. Since I had a prefab fireplace, the insert exhaust (on top of the firebox) did not line up properly with the existing flue as there was about a 2" offset, so the local hearth shop fabricated an adapter made out of sheet metal that connects the woodstove to the liner. All in all, it was a tight fit but we got it installed.

The problem I'm having is keeping the fire going once I close the insert door. I thought it might be an issue with the wood i'm burning so I bought some kiln dried wood from the local hardware store. I'm assuming this is decent wood as I have not tested it with a mositure meter yet. That hasnt solved the problem.

So I thought it may be the way i'm operting the fireplace. According to the operating instructions, during a cold startup the burn control lever is moved to the "up" position and the ACC is either pushed all the way in which bypassess the the shutdown mechanism, or it is pulled all the way out which slowling closes the startup air over 30 minutes or so. During my normal startup, I move the burn control to the "up" position and push the ACC all the way in for max air. Once thef rie takes off the flames burn violently and travel towards the front of the insert and around the baffles in the top and out the flue. Seems to be a really healthy fire. During this time I have to leave the door just barely cracked. After 20 or 30 minutes when it gets up to temp and the fan blower comes on i'll shut the door. Within 30 seconds the fire dwindles to almost nothing.

As mentioned before, I have searched these forums and have found people with similiar issues. Several suggestions have been to extend the chimney which is supposed to help with proper draft. I feel that the draft is sufficient as seen during startup but perhaps i'm wrong. I will say that my chimney is not in the best location. It is on the east side of the house roughly 8 feet lower than the peak of the house.

I realize this is a new model offered by Quadrafire so there isnt much out there yet but I hope someone has some sage advise that may be able to fix my problem =). Thanks for your help.
 
I have the same insert intalked in october, I was having problems keeping the glass clean and getting a good burn, I had a professional install in a masonry chimney SS liner 18 ft. I kept on dealer and I found out that when the units were being installed and they were not using OAK there is a plate in the front of the unit that was not being removed by the techs( new insert). The install manual did not mention this except on pg 44 if you were using an OAK. I recieved a PDF from my dealer and they said they would schedule to come out and remove it,I did this myself very easy, and wow what a difference!!!!!
 
Good question and solution guys. This also can happen with PE inserts if the knockout is not removed. Thanks for posting and welcome to the forums!
 
Chang,

Thank you for the reply. I'm looking at my installation manual and on page 40 it mentions that if you are not installaing an outside air kit (which i am not) you need to remove the "air cover plate" and discard. Is this the plate you are refering to? I have removed the panel from the front of the unit and i'm looking at it right now. I didnt see anything on page 44 of the manual. I guess I can take it off and see if it works?
 
Yes, it's on page 40:

If Not Installing the Outside Air Kit:

1. Swing grille down to expose the two screws. Figure 40.1
2. Remove the two screws and pull the access assembly away from the appliance.
3. Remove the outside air cover plate A and discard.
4. Re-install the access assembly.
 
Thanks for the info, and I just realized what OAK meant. Sorry im not down with the acronyms yet.

So I removed the front plate and started up a fire last night. I went through the same motions as before for a cold start except I tried shutting the door after only 5 minutes or so after the fire was going. The fire still struggled, so I left the door open until I had a really good raging fire (~20 minutes) and then shut it and it actually kept going. So I'm definetly making progress! Once the wood was reduced to coals, I added some more wood, opened up the ACC and shut the door. It still had a hard time lighting off. So once again I opened up the door to get it started. I shut the door again after 10 minutes or so.

Does this sound like what I should expect or is there something still wrong? I thought once you got a good coal bed you could pretty much throw the wood in and shut the door and it would burn with just the help of the ACC.

Again thanks for all the help, you guys are great!
 
Hey glad to hear that removing the plate did help a little. I am certainly not a master wood burner, but I do have the same Insert and I have been keeping my downstairs very warm. I have been reading this forum as much as I can and trying learn the basics and there are many experienced individuals that can help you with troubleshooting your setup. Here is what I have found works for me. My wood is somewhat mixed I have some that is oak 2 years split and stacked by me and the rest I purchased seasoned this year? Yea right! The wood makes all the difference in the world! That said try your kiln dried wood you purchased to eliminate that variable. I follow the same instructions in the manual ACC open on timer, and secondary all the way up. I do a top down fire( some good videos out there on doing this) 4 small splits EW with a second layer NS with progressively smaller wood,I do use fat wood not paper. I only keep the door cracked 5 min. Close door all the way and I usually burn that load with burn control all the way up. The top down gives you a great coal bed to work from. Time to reload I move coals forward and place smallest splits in front almost kindling size and larger ones in back this make a big difference than just throwing them ontop the coals. I have been burning with the burn control all the way up or in the middle once I have a load or two and the unit is heated up and good coal bed.I tend to burn smaller loads and burn hotter. I have been mooching true seasoned wood from my brother and have taken control of getting my own wood, I have been cutting and splitting wood now for the future, the wood I bought this fall should be ready for next year. Correct me if I am wrong, but most of the problems I read about on this forum are bad fuel!! Get a moisture meter and you will be shocked. Good luck!
 
Hello, I recently had the Voyageur installed last month. I did not know about the plate and will check to see if it is there, thanks for the heads up. I am not having too much trouble getting fires going, only filled the house up once with smoke! I use 2 small splits laying N-S. I put a 1/4 supercedar in the middle, and some small bark or kindling pieces on top across the splits. I leave door open about 5 minutes to get wood burning nicely and charred. With ACC on timer mode and air control all the way up, I can close the door and keep fire going. Once this initial wood burns down, I can spread coals and add larger logs. I leave ACC alone and leave burn control up all the way for about 10 mins, then scale it back to medium or low. Usually 2 medium size splits gives me an hour of flame time, and another 30-45 mins of blue flame/coal burn time before I have to re-load. I also have trouble keeping glass clean, especially on the left side where handle is. The air wash really only cleans the middle portion. Check out my thread, search for Voyageur, and see posted pics.
 
Highlife, I took a look at your pictures from your previoud thread, and yes they look like my insert before I removed the plate for the OAK install. I still get some dirty glass on the left side near the latch and the bottom center. I have been burning pretty hot and and I have been using the ACC startup control when I reload, and I just leave the burn rate where it was set from the last load. I dont burn 24/7 so I have alot of cold stove startups, I just recieved some Supercedar samples from thomas yesterday so I will try them instead of fatwood. Most of the glass issues come from startup and reload, so I reload with a pretty hot bed of coals and the glass is pretty clean. Now I only clean it if company is comming over. It is a really nice looking insert!
 
Thanks Chang, I was concerned either my wood was wet or my technique was lacking, but now I hope it is this plate causing the dirty glass. I have a 27foot steel liner, insulated only on the top and bottom, and once heated up, the draft is pretty strong keeping the fire going. Reloads start right up with good hot coals. I don't run 24/7 either, mostly now on weekends, and cold start ups (its 15 degrees here now) take some time to get going. Supercedars are excellent! Better than fatwood IMO. Start easier and don't stink. I agree, it is a great looking insert, and I am happy with the amount of heat with the blower going. Do you ever get concerned about over-firing? I don't know how you would be able to tell as the unit is pretty flush with the wall. Perhaps through the slot on the top where the air exits from (seeing red?). How much wood have you loaded in? I have yet to load it fully, because even with the air control all the way down, when I fill it halfway, the fire cranks and I can't cut it down. Lots of flames shoot over the baffle and up the flue.
 
I must not have same amount of draw as you do, I can shut down the flames pretty well with the burn control all the way down. The flames just get lazy, but are not roaring, but still a lot of flames. I have had my wood issues this year, but I am burning some locust now that reads 16%on my cheapo meter. I have a SS liner uninsulated on a exterior masonry chimney approx 20 ft from the top of the insert, with block off plate.
I check the gap for the blower to see if the pipe is glowing,when it is really ripping, but have not been too concerned about over-firing more about creosote build up.
I read about stove top temps and flue temps ect..., but is hard to take that info and use it on the insert? Also the way Quadra-fire controls the air intake seems to be different, maybe wood burning for dummies, set the ACC timer and the burn rate control and go!! I am not sure if the start up ACC control is equivalent to the primary air, and that the burn rate control actually controls the air to the secondaries?? I looked at the schematics and the lever does look like it controls air from the top near the burn tubes.
Well maybe someone here will be able to help us both out to better understand the Quadra-fire difference, and how get temps and use the temps for inserts.
 
I removed the plate for oak install, not sure if it will make any difference. I don't see how it will based on where it was located. Anyway, manual says to remove, so I did. Fire burning nicely, only a little brown spot on glass in top right. Not much else so far. Fan on high as it will be on single digits tonight!
 
I havent replied in a while and thought I would provide some additional feedback in regards to the issues you guys are having.

I came across a little bit of seasoned wood this month and have been using it for cold startups. Once the coal bed is established, I can pretty much throw anything in there and it will burn. Most of the wood that I have is only seasoned 8 months. We have been using the stove almost around the clock. After 2 or 3 days of burning, we will get a pretty good buildup of creosote on the glass, more so along the edges. Pretty much inevitable with unseasoned wood, and even the seasoned wood still builds up on the window over the course of a week.

The stove puts out a good amount of heat and keeps our 1500 sf house around 72, unless you just turn it up full blast and then it will burn you out. Overall I have been happy with it, however I still have the same issues as before with reloading. I normally have to leave the door open for 15 minutes before shutting the door, but i'm really thinking that has to do with the unseasoned wood. Hopefully next year it will be a different story when the wood has become more seasoned.
 
Having to leave the door open for re-loading is likely due to wet wood and possibly chimney height (draft). If I put dry wood on a bed of hot coals, I can close the door right away and it will take off on its own in about a minute. I do wish the glass cleaning system worked better. Even with dry wood, build up will happen on the glass, especially as mentioned on the bottom and top right corner.

What is the longest "Flame time" you guys are getting? I think the most I have got is an hour and a half, maybe a little longer. I do know that 8 hours after loading, there is enough hot coals to start the fire up again with only wood. That I am pleased with! All-in-all, very satisfied with this insert, would definitely recommend!
 
Most of the wood I use is Black Jack Oak, and it will get about 2 hours of flame time before it is reduced to coals. I'll load the stove up at 10 PM and turn the burn control all the way down. The next morning i'll have a nice coal bed that will easily start another fire. If I leave the burn control all the way up it is much harder to get the next fire going as the coals have burned down considerably more. Sounds like you are getting pretty similiar flame times.
 
Mkimler said:
Most of the wood I use is Black Jack Oak, and it will get about 2 hours of flame time before it is reduced to coals. I'll load the stove up at 10 PM and turn the burn control all the way down. The next morning i'll have a nice coal bed that will easily start another fire. If I leave the burn control all the way up it is much harder to get the next fire going as the coals have burned down considerably more. Sounds like you are getting pretty similiar flame times.

Ive had this stove for 2 weeks and am having similar start-up issues-- I asked the installer if te OAK panel was removed and was reassured it was-- but I am going to double check -- I had the stove going gangbusters for a few days (80 degrees in a 2000 sq ft house) but I cleaned it out yesterday and it struggled all day-- I had to refire it this morning and had to shut the door and run with it sputtering- I doubt it took off and expect a full fireplace when I get home... I am frustrated with this one.. Bought a moisture meter and will check the wood tonight...This stove will demolish a full box of oak in 2 hours no problem on high... I was having good luck with loading at 10 and finding a coal bed with enough ummphh to fire at 7-8 am the next morning...

edit- im pretty sure the OAK panel is already missing-- can anyone confirm from pix? im assuming the panel was in front of the 2 circles in the upper right corner bc i can see squarish outlines of the panel etched around this area..
 

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Yep, looks like it has been removed. I didnt notice much of a change in performance with my insert after removing the cover plate. What is weird is after 10 minutes of leaving the door open and allowing the fire to really develop, I have had times where the door is barely cracked open and it will have a strong enough draft that it will suck the door all the way closed. However when I lock the handle and get a good tight seal, the fire dwindles to almost nothing. It will eventually come back and provide a sufficient amount of heat and burn the wood to coals within a few hours, but I just dont feel like I should have to operate in this manner. I wonder if the design of the air intake is inadequate?
 
I've talked to both quadrafire and my dealer and I am close to trading this for a 4100 or 5100--i just don't like the difficult starting, small tapered firebox, and short burn times....
 
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I agree, it shouldnt be that hard to start and the tapered design can make it hard to put logs in that are over 16" in the back. I had to split all of my logs much smaller just to pack it full of wood.

I have found that it does burn much better when it is full of wood vs half full or only a few pieces. Each piece of wood helps fuel the other one and provide the heat to keep the fire going. As for the burn time, my thoughts are he burn time is more a function of what type of wood and how much air is supplied during the burn. The more dense wood obviously has more mass therefore will burn longer and provide more BTU's. The amount of air controls how fast it burns. As I mentioned before, i'm getting about 2 hours with Black Jack Oak. I would expect shorter burn times for smaller wood, but I'm no expert. I have only been doing this for a few months. Also, the bigger inserts will provide the space for more wood.

Keep me posted on what you decide to do. I really liked the 4100, but my hearth only extends out 18" from the fireplace and the door on that model would come out only a few inches shy of hearth edge. I though it would look weird and the door would end up sticking way over the ledge when opened. But if your hearth design allows for it then its an option, but I would much rather figure out why this model doesnt work. It really is a slick looking insert. What is Quadrafire telling you?
 
Quadrafire is saying this stove is closer in specs to a 3100i-- I wanted something bigger than the 4100i bc I am in zone 2 heating over 2000 sq ft-- I'd rather buy bigger and dial it down-- they have no answer for the difficulties other than flue difficulties (mine is 25 ft and 2 wks old)-- I know what you're saying about the hearth-- I will only have 13 inches of hearth (flush hearth with floor) and it requires 18 by code--dealer says he can make it work so I'm planning on the 5100 and this will go back--
 
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