File this under . . . just F$%#@'n Stupid

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Like someone else said. Motor loads and gfci's don't mix. Change the stupid plug to a normal recep and be done with it. Code wise it is legal - if you use a single recep not a duplex (dedicated equipment rule) and it sounds dry in your outbuilding so don't sweat it.

P.S. My refractory glows orange quite often... is that bad??? : )
 
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
All great comments, Thank you :)

The 'stupid' part is my azz, for knowing this was a problem 12 months ago and not addressing it.

The electrician did it because it is outside (though inside the enclosed boiler room).

Thoughts on a 'fix'.

1) Also coming out of the GFI box is a wire which goes to the lights in the 'boiler room'. Testing the GFI, the lights don't go out. Looks to me like a regular outlet need to be placed on that wire.

2)While tracing backwards yesterday, I found that the wire supplying my 'boiler room' comes from my inside oil unit. I'm wondering if maybe that should not be. My rationale is that, if the GW trips the breaker, I am going to have no back up heat. This is also the reason I didn't re-wire a new outlet yesterday during the down-time.

Though I am not in Code enforcement, I work in and for local govt in NY and know many CEO's. Despite NY having adopted the ;National Code' it is amazing to me how many different answers you will get to the same question put to CEO's.

Oh, BTW, the good news is, the HX is yet again, creosote free :cheese:
Click to expand...

I am no electrician but

1). Where do the lights connect in relationship with the GFI? Not unusual that they don't go out.

2) Same thing with the Oil boiler, a tripped GFI in the boiler room wouldn't necessarily kill the oil boiler. However my Econoburn manual stated to have it on a dedicated 15amp circuit.

If you are concerned, how about a dedicated GFI breaker instead of a outlet? Pool pumps are on Breakers and they handle pump starts.

gg
 
wow!! last year when i posted a few inquiries about outdoor gassers i was told i was paranoid and crazy cuz i wanted the fire outside(along with the mess) of my house. i even went as far as explaining i was a firefighter(engine captain)as my login says. and people told me to buy a "tried and true" indoor gasser that would never have a problem. well looks like glowing refractory would be enough to keep me up at night. i have seen numerous house fires due to the failure of wood burners (gassers and "old school" wood burners) and just feel more comfortable with it outside away from my house.
i have been using my empyre pro 200 for 2 monthsnow and no problems, 12 hour burn times, hot water for the house.
just my 2 cents..... everything will fail eventually, when uyour dealing with fire (especially in your house or outbuilding) something will get burned. just hope you can catch it in time and save your house.
 
goosegunner said:
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
All great comments, Thank you :)

The 'stupid' part is my azz, for knowing this was a problem 12 months ago and not addressing it.

The electrician did it because it is outside (though inside the enclosed boiler room).

Thoughts on a 'fix'.

1) Also coming out of the GFI box is a wire which goes to the lights in the 'boiler room'. Testing the GFI, the lights don't go out. Looks to me like a regular outlet need to be placed on that wire.

2)While tracing backwards yesterday, I found that the wire supplying my 'boiler room' comes from my inside oil unit. I'm wondering if maybe that should not be. My rationale is that, if the GW trips the breaker, I am going to have no back up heat. This is also the reason I didn't re-wire a new outlet yesterday during the down-time.

Though I am not in Code enforcement, I work in and for local govt in NY and know many CEO's. Despite NY having adopted the ;National Code' it is amazing to me how many different answers you will get to the same question put to CEO's.

Oh, BTW, the good news is, the HX is yet again, creosote free :cheese:
Click to expand...

I am no electrician but

1). Where do the lights connect in relationship with the GFI? Not unusual that they don't go out.

2) Same thing with the Oil boiler, a tripped GFI in the boiler room wouldn't necessarily kill the oil boiler. However my Econoburn manual stated to have it on a dedicated 15amp circuit.

If you are concerned, how about a dedicated GFI breaker instead of a outlet? Pool pumps are on Breakers and they handle pump starts.

gg
Click to expand...

If you are close enough to the breaker panel I think I would run a new separate 15A circuit (non GFI) with a one plug receptable like someone said above. ISEEDBTUs, if this is not feasible in your case, I think running a new wire to a new single receptable outlet out of that GFI would be the next best thing. Make sure you feed it with the "feed .thru" (not the GFI output) terminals on that GFI outlet like the lights you describe are connected. If the boiler shorted out (though unlikely) it sounds like you would lose your oil boiler too. Maybe the outlet you add could be one of those that has a breaker (all in one) like you see on light poles. Not sure if that would pass code however. UPDATE: I just googled and the 2008 NEC apparently requires all subgrade outlets to be GFI even the dedicated single ones like a garage door opener, freezers, and refrigerators. What a PITA!! I think you installed that dedicated outlet in 2007 didn't you. That's my story anyway.
 
just a footnote to the NEC, all subgrade outlets must be GFI. even if installed in 2007, if a home inspection would ever be needed for any purpose, i.e. new insurance policy, refinance of current mortgage, whatever.., the outlet would need to be updated to current standards. so you would be running into a sticky situation. if you would update it to please the political @$$'$ then change the outlet back to a non-gfi and god forbid something would happen such as fire, they would cite the receptacle as the cause of fire. therefore null and void insurance policy. this is why many house fires are ruled "electrical" in nature.
in the case of this thread, you did say your boiler is in an outbuilding? so there should be no problem with the GFI since most outbuildings are above grade, therefore not requiring a GFI.
the problem is when the motor starts it pulls aprox 1.5 times the current for a split second and the GFI see's this as a leak. therfore tripping the receptacle.
 
We had a similar problem with refrigeration, dedicated line but had to be GFI, GFI fails a lot of wasted food.
 
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