Mixing valve question

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woodsmaster

woodsmaster

Minister of Fire
Jan 25, 2010
2,885
N.W. Ohio
I have a watts mixing valve that says 100 to 140 deg. It will allow what ever temp water I have In and can be reduced by 40 deg. So If I have 180 F water I can mix It to 140 F . Is this valve made for 140 F water max or is it just not working right ? I wanted to use it for a radiant floor but thats to hot.
 
I'm assuming you're looking for a lower temperature for in slab radiant.
Taco, and Honeywell both make mixing valves that start at 80 degrees.
I like the honeywell with a nut and a gasket as opposed to IPS fittings.
We install a female T with a wallrich temp gauge after the mixing valve, to help with adjustments. If you're in a small pipe, the stem will be too long, and the female T won't work, you'll have to solder.
 
Chris S said:
I'm assuming you're looking for a lower temperature for in slab radiant.
Taco, and Honeywell both make mixing valves that start at 80 degrees.
I like the honeywell with a nut and a gasket as opposed to IPS fittings.
We install a female T with a wallrich temp gauge after the mixing valve, to help with adjustments. If you're in a small pipe, the stem will be too long, and the female T won't work, you'll have to solder.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise, but that don't answer my question.
 
It should only mix to the temp setting, It should limit it to 140 on paper. Watts pretty much builds most of this style valve now after buying up some of the competition, These won't handle large flows with any accuracy and the one you have is not rated for DWH at least not now, it changed. I don't like these things I have several at my own house and installed a bunch in the field. They seem to work correctly some times and others they don't. In a low flow application where fine water temps aren't required it should be fine. In DHW it worth the money to buy a commercial grade hot water extender vale,also made by watts -- but have real brass parts. "just another opinion"
 
bigburner said:
It should only mix to the temp setting, It should limit it to 140 on paper. Watts pretty much builds most of this style valve now after buying up some of the competition, These won't handle large flows with any accuracy and the one you have is not rated for DWH at least not now, it changed. I don't like these things I have several at my own house and installed a bunch in the field. They seem to work correctly some times and others they don't. In a low flow application where fine water temps aren't required it should be fine. In DHW it worth the money to buy a commercial grade hot water extender vale,also made by watts -- but have real brass parts. "just another opinion"
Click to expand...



Thanks, my valve is clearly faulty then. I will return it.
 
There are different quality ranges in valves. The size of the body and cartridge, the quality and tolerances of the machine work, etc. the valve should have a chart with it showing the parameters it work in , pressure difference, temperature difference, flow rate etc. For DHW application several states require no-lead compliant valves, that will be nationwide within 36 months I hear.

hr
 

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Mine is a Honeywell Sparcomix AM Series, 1" ports, maximum temperature is 212F, minimum flow is 0.5 gpm. Various temperature ranges are available, and mine is 80-180F. I installed it to mix for my radiant floor in my new shop, so only this season's experience. So far, so good. I have it set to provide 100-105F supply to the floor.
 
BulldogAcres said:
Make sure you have installed the mixing valve properly. Remember the circulation pump has to be installed after the mixing valve. I have a Taco 5000 and it reduces my water temperature from 160 to 130.
Click to expand...

That is my problem, I installed it after the circulator. Guess I should have read the directions. Looks like I have some plumbing to re-do. Thanks for the help eveyone. Oh and it is for a slab.
 
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