Circulating pump wiring

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rallen12

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Nov 17, 2008
9
sw michigan
I have an eko 40 I am setting up to heat a 500 gal tank (primary loop). I have a two loops off the tank each with separate. 007 taco circ. pump supplying an air exchanger on one and a flate plate water heat exchanger on the other. I am using a zone valve control relay (taco zvc 404) for the thermostat input and zone valve control output.

My question is this: what type of switch would i need to control the 115v pumps with 24v input???

Thanks
RCA
 
rca said:
I have an eko 40 I am setting up to heat a 500 gal tank (primary loop). I have a two loops off the tank each with separate. 007 taco circ. pump supplying an air exchanger on one and a flate plate water heat exchanger on the other. I am using a zone valve control relay (taco zvc 404) for the thermostat input and zone valve control output.

My question is this: what type of switch would i need to control the 115v pumps with 24v input???

Thanks
RCA
Click to expand...

What size coil are you going to use to be able to heat off the storage temperatures?
 
I am not sure how to answer the question george. The storage tank temp and coil on the relay switch not sure how they relate?

I do like the rib u1c. The problem i get into as a learn as i go student is the so many different names for an electrical divice.....fan relay, coil relay, ect.....

Thanks for the imput.

RCA
 
I believe that Taco zone control box has a relay or two offering dry contacts. Listed as end switch and dry contact. These can be used to switch a 120V load, pump, boiler, what have you.

Wire the control thermostat to the 404, and switch the zone valves as well as the pump loads.

hr
 

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RCA: For whats its worth I think I went through the same problem where I had planned to use zone valves(24v) on part of my system and circ pumps(120v) on the other. I originally bought (or was sold) a 406 Zone Control (24v output) but ended up getting a 506 Zone Control (120v output) and using only circ pumps. You may want to look into doing the same, forget about any zone valves and just use your pumps for the same purpose
 
I see the utility of the zvc 404 now......the secondary pumps will need a 24v relay coil just because I want them to run when needed. I will set up the storage tank as a zone (along with the other zones on the 404) then use the switch end and dry contact to run the boiler and primary circ. pump,,,all off the zvc 404 control......

Where I was getting hung up is trying to rig the secondary pumps with the zones of the 404 but there are no 120v out (with the 24v out) to run secondary pumps and valve.....then i thought there must be a 24v to 120v relay.........now i see how they all work together....

Thanks all for input.

RCA
 
rca said:
It certainly would be simpler to loose the zone valves. Would the pressure created from the primary pump (primary loop) then push heat through the secondary pump/loop without a zone valve????

RCA
Click to expand...

It doesn't with mine. I've got 4 active zones, all controlled with 007s and a circ 011 which is on whenever a zone calls for heat. The 011 does not seem to push past the nonactive 007s. This could have to do with my configuration but I also thought some plumber told me that the circ pumps would have the same effect as a valve and they cost the same so skip the valves and just go with pumps. Hope this helps.
 
It certainly would be simpler to loose the zone valves. Would the pressure created from the primary pump (primary loop) then push heat through the secondary pump/loop without a zone valve????

RCA
 
rca said:
I am not sure how to answer the question george. The storage tank temp and coil on the relay switch not sure how they relate?

I do like the rib u1c. The problem i get into as a learn as i go student is the so many different names for an electrical divice.....fan relay, coil relay, ect.....

Thanks for the imput. RCA
Click to expand...

The reason I mentioned the coil if I understand your post is you are feeding the coil from the storage by way of a 007 rather than off the primary boiler loop. If your storage temp is lower than the design temperature of the coil you will not likely get the heat you may be expecting. I have a coil in an air handler that work great off the propane boiler at 180 degrees or when my tank is 180 degrees but is sub par when my tank temperature on the Garn is 150 degrees. This summer I may replace this coil with a three pass, low temp coil to better utilize the lower temp that storage makes so readily available.
 
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