Blaze king and cap problems?? Updated with photo

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kwikrp said:
I have completely removed the screen! i THOUGHT THAT WOULD SOLVE THE PROBLEM BUT AFTER SEVERAL WEEKS IT STARTED AGAIN !

What is the length on your horizontal run?
What is the elevation change on your horizontal run?
Is it double wall?
What is the vertical rise above your stove before your 1st direction change?
How well is your pipe sealed up to and including your attachment to your liner?
How are they attached?
A picture of this will speak a thousand words. ;-)
 
What N of 60 asks is important for trouble shooting.
Close up Picture or the cap will help too.

Sounds like wet wood being burned on low = creosote problems = possible future chimney fire.

Been there done that years ago with an older BK. SCARY TIME :bug:

I learned to burn hotter, then I learned what seasoned/dry wood really was.
What a difference dry wood makes!
Burning is allot more fun with quality dry wood. :)
 
kwikrp said:
I have completely removed the screen! i THOUGHT THAT WOULD SOLVE THE PROBLEM BUT AFTER SEVERAL WEEKS IT STARTED AGAIN !

Again, how about a detailed description, and especially, photos of your chimney and stove setup?

Otherwise we are just flying blind.

Your problem does not seem to be unusual, and is a consequence of the King's efficiency, which has flue gasses as cool as 200*, which means a marginal chimney can cool and spill air on reloads. It's a common enough issue for Blaze King to have a FAQ entry devoted to it on their site:

If Your Stove Smokes Out The Door When Open

When you open the door, have you first fully opened the fresh air inlet?

If your stove is a catalytic model, have you opened the bypass?

Review your manufacturers proper start up procedures.

Your chimney is probably too cool, try burning your stove at a higher draft setting.

You may have an excess build-up of creosote (have your chimney cleaned and inspected).

You may have insufficient draft for your unit; call your dealer to assess the situation.

Photos and/or detailed description please--height, bends, inside or outside, in a chase or exposed, etc.
 
coming out of the wall thimble is a 1 foot long double wall pipe into 2 45* then into a 24 then into a 6 inch all double wall. Working on getting photos of chimney cap.
 

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kwikrp said:
coming out of the wall thimble is a 1 foot long double wall pipe into 2 45* then into a 24 then into a 6 inch all double wall. Working on getting photos of chimney cap.

Now we're getting somewhere! Thanks. Now for photos of the outside.

How long is your Class A pipe?

Good luck!
 
35 foot interior insulated 8 inch stainless linear
 
Ya check your chimney for cleaning,use really dry wood and I think maybe your internal piping may be too short.I think the manual says to have at least five feet of pipe length inside.I could be wrong however check the manual.
 
kwikrp said:
35 foot interior insulated 8 inch stainless linear

Woah! To paraphrase Nickelback, that should suck like a diesel train!

Keep the info coming, and someone here will help you sort it out.
 
Did they clean the flue when the mesh was removed from the cap? This set-up should have no problem drawing. As for the cap issue, the installer should have known the mesh would be a problem, that is why there are codes in place for this, and it is his job to know them. I think the mesh combined with less than dry wood caused excessive creosote build up, in turn, reducing draft.
 
How hot are you burning? When I'm burning chunks and uglies I know aren't ready yet, I burn at 3 - 3.5 for a long time into the burn or I get a little gunk in the cap. Turn less than ideal wood down to 2 after the cat lights off and you will have a mess on your hands.
 
I agree you should clean the flu top to bottom just to be safe.

Don't overlook other possibilities though. Has there been an exhaust fan running, a window in an upper floor open, furnace fan on circulate? Essentially anything that could cause depressurization in the stove room.
 
The middle one is the cap that is connected to the 8 inch liner then to the king. Again Thank you to everyone who is trying to help me !
 

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dont know why I can not post
 
any comments
 
kwikrp said:
coming out of the wall thimble is a 1 foot long double wall pipe into 2 45* then into a 24 then into a 6 inch all double wall. Working on getting photos of chimney cap.

There you go, you're venting a King through a 6" pipe. Should be 8". Also, I believe the install manual requires a certain amount of vertical rise before the first bend, like 36".
 
Highbeam said:
kwikrp said:
coming out of the wall thimble is a 1 foot long double wall pipe into 2 45* then into a 24 then into a 6 inch all double wall. Working on getting photos of chimney cap.

There you go, you're venting a King through a 6" pipe. Should be 8". Also, I believe the install manual requires a certain amount of vertical rise before the first bend, like 36".

The 36 inch rise is correct but take another look at the pic. He is running 8" double wall. The 6" he was referring to was the length.
 
Back puffing when reloading has been a problem since the begining, but smoke coming from the inside stove pipe started in Nov of 2010 and seemed to be solved when the installer removed the screen he had put around the cap as a spark arrestor. It just started again after 6 weeks after removal of screen. Called installer again he said that everything fine when he was up there removing the screen. He inspected the cap and linear, so he says.
 
I'm sticking with burn hotter at least for the 1st half of the burn. After that, it shouldn't matter.
 
How tight is your house? Could be a negative pressure problem? Try cracking a nearby window a few minutes before loading. Might need an OAK.
 
kwikrp - Has the smoke issue been a problem from the initial install or did it just start a few weeks ago?
 
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