Newbie questions on how to run Hampton HI300

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jflenk01

New Member
Jan 13, 2011
10
CT
Hi all…I’ve been lurking on the forum for the past month, and finally have some questions. I just purchased and had installed a Hampton HI300 insert. I did a couple of small break in fires and started burning for real yesterday. After day one I have several questions. This is probably going to be a lengthy post so I apologize in advance.

My questions are relative to damper controls, how to burn the stove, optimal stove temps, and fan speed. Let me describe what I did. With the damper wide open I started a small fire with kindling, got that going, added a few small splits, got the fire going a little bit more, and then I loaded it up stuffed with splits and got it roaring. Currently I only have an IR gun. This is where I am a little confused. With the fire roaring and using the IR gun shooting through the air outlet openings I was getting temps varying from 350 to 700 depending upon where I aimed it on the firebox. If I aimed it maybe a few inches in I will get temps around 350 to 400 whereas if I shoot it farther back I will get 500 or so. If I shoot where the flue pipe connects to the insert I will get as high as 650 to 700. I also shot inside the firebox through the glass and was getting temps of about 800 to 850 and if I shoot the top of the shelf just below the Hampton flame logo I will get right around 300. At this point not wanting to over temp the stove I would dial down the damper in steps over the course of maybe 3 to 5 minutes. I dial it all the way down to ½†from fully closed (the most the manual tells you to close it with the fan on). I should also point out that the fan is on auto high at this point. Once I turn the damper down I believe I get secondaries (I see flames shooting out of the air tubes on top) and the insert puts out great heat, but the issue is my flames only last for an hour to an hour and a half max before I’m left with coals. Once I get down to coals the stove temp seems to drop quite a bit. Being a noob I would reload with splits at this point and start the cycle again but after a few reloads I quickly had a stove full of coals and no place for any more wood.

To give some more data points my house is 2900 sq ft. 500 of which is a finished bonus room above the garage. I have that door closed and I put a weather strip under the door. I’ve also closed the doors to my 2 other bedrooms upstairs since they aren’t in use right now either. The house has a very open floor plan and it does have 9 ft ceilings. When I started the stove it was 61 downstairs and I got it up to a high of 69, but that quickly fell off once the stove was full of coals and I had to wait for them to burn down so I could reload the wood.

Sorry for the lengthy post. Any help or advice you can give me on how to run this thing would be great! Also, do you find it better to run the stove with the fan on High or Low. I would think High puts out more heat into the house, but from a few posts I’ve seen it looks like some people have better luck on low?

Thanks in advance!!!
 
Sounds like you've done some learning on this site before posting, so your not far off the mark. The manual is pretty useless for learning fuel technique. Two thoughts: one, I also have virtually the same stove & an IR gun. Temps will fluctuate wildly on the gun just by moving it a 1/2 inch. I heard that this is a result of the stove design (layers of steel, some right on top of each other & others separated) so don't worry about exact temps. Just learn your stove by observation.

Second, try leaving the draft further open during the main part of the burn cycle. This will allow the fire to burn a little hotter (more heat) and you'll have less coals left over. Now, I typically leave the draft about 1/4 open most of the time. I pull the draft control out some about 20 min. before a reload to "use up" the wood. By the way, your heat output sounds only a little weak for the amount of house your heating. Is your wood recently purchased "seasoned?" It may not be the greatest. I noticed a big jump in my heat output (even with closing the draft more) in year 2 of my burning--had the technique down & had wood that was stacked in the sun & wind for over a year.
 
Thanks for the reply! I actually purchased a Rutland thermometer that I placed in my air outlet duct and on top of the firebox. This had helped tremendously with the heat output! I don't think I was getting the stove hot enough before and I was also choking it down too much and too soon. I now run it up to about 550 and then I'll slowly close the damper. This has eliminated my excess coal issue. I'm not getting the greatest burn times though. Even with a full load of biobricks I'm only getting about 4 to 5 hours before my stove top temp is down to about 250 to 300. Is that normal? I know they should be taken with a grain of salt but the manufacturer states 8 hours and supposedly biobricks will even extend that.
 
Jason430 thanks for this post. I also purchased a Hampton this year and basically am going through the same thing you are!! I learned alot from this!
 
After reading about your experience, I too find it hard to believe that you warped part of the stove that easily with the fan on high. I'm no engineer but that's a lot of air moving around cooling things off. Hopefully, you just aged your stove a little quickly; but no major issue.

In regard to burn times & heat output, think of these stoves like another internal combustion item in your life--an automobile. It may produce say 250 hp and get something like 27 mpg on the highway. But your not going to be producing BOTH 250hp and 27 mpg at the same time. So the stove can heat something like 3000 sq. feet and have a burn going for 10 hrs. but it's not going to heat all 3000 ft. for 10 hrs.
 
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