King 5510 Daily Headache

imacman said:

SmokeyTheBear said:

Why would you want to cut another hole in the house? ......

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Smokey, I could be wrong, but I think the OP was talking about a hole for the OAK.

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Ok, could be.

If it was me I'd get a hole saw or use a reciprocating saw to enlarge the one that was already there, cut the hole and cobble up a plate and wind shield.

I don't know if they have kits for that size. I'm not one to buy something like that when a little sheet or thin plate metal work would do the trick.

This may have already been asked....Do you really need to heat the basement? It doesnt appear to be finished and used as living space. Is there a location on your first floor for this stove? It would be way easier to direct vent this stove straight out of the house IMO.

Clyde,

Some doors and stoves aren't flat.

Check to see if there are adjustments for the door on the hinge side that allow it to be moved in several directions.

Sometimes hinges move or hinge pins bend throwing the doors out of alignment.

If there isn't a matching bump on the stove frame in that location, contact the stove's maker.

There should never be easy movement around a properly installed door gasket. This also means you never stretch a gasket while installing it.

By now you should understand that pellet stoves require 100% control of the combustion air flow, this must go through the burn pot or the stove will have major burn issues. Improperly set up venting reduces the ability of the stove to pull enough air through the burn pot and to push it out the venting. Gaps in gaskets allow air to come into the stove and not go through the burn pot, this is known as an air bypass.

Sorry about taking so long in getting back to you but I couldn't get back on until just now.

I haven't had much luck with mine please help....
I tried 4 different brands of pellets this year so far some burn better then others. I am opening the door hopper letting the fire burn down and taking a scrapper and flipping the black hard ash brick out (clunker) doing this atleast three times a day. I have heat rage 4 daft 7 room fan auto. Under the burn pot fills with ash and no more can ash can drop down all 4 brands where hardwood pellets.

streetracer1h said:

I haven't had much luck with mine please help....
I tried 4 different brands of pellets this year so far some burn better then others. I am opening the door hopper letting the fire burn down and taking a scrapper and flipping the black hard ash brick out (clunker) doing this atleast three times a day. I have heat rage 4 daft 7 room fan auto. Under the burn pot fills with ash and no more can ash can drop down all 4 brands where hardwood pellets.

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First where is your damper set?

Describe the vent setup starting at the stove and going to and including the termination cap. A picture of the exhaust system in particular the outside portion would be helpful. Size of pipe, length and orientation of the pipe runs, and the number and types of elbows.

Then have you checked the gaskets on your door and ash pan door.

Clean the stove, this includes the venting, any ash traps, that area under the burn pot liner, and the air intake.

Do you have an OAK (Outside Air Kit) installed?

Is your stove in auto or manual mode?

The damper in the front above the ash pan??

I had a professional install the stove and exhaust pipe.. The pipe goes stright out the back threw the wall now we are outside it has a 90 and maybe 4 feet to the top. I think that it was 3 inch pipe. I tryed it on auto and I got it to work the best on manual. The intake system isn't hooked up because my house was built in the 80's and he said that it not a air tight house so I wouldn't need a outside intake.

SmokeyTheBear said:

Clyde,

Some doors and stoves aren't flat.

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I could be wrong, but I remember looking at one of these stoves....the front of the stove and door are flat.

Unless the door latch is way out of adjustment, this could be a problem.

Remember, this stove was in the house when he bought it....who knows what happened to it before.

streetracer1h said:

The damper in the front above the ash pan??

I had a professional install the stove and exhaust pipe.. The pipe goes stright out the back threw the wall now we are outside it has a 90 and maybe 4 feet to the top. I think that it was 3 inch pipe. I tryed it on auto and I got it to work the best on manual. The intake system isn't hooked up because my house was built in the 80's and he said that it not a air tight house so I wouldn't need a outside intake.

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When that stove is in auto mode the damper is supposed to be completely open.

If it does the same thing when in auto mode with the damper fully open, you need to look for air leaks.

Ash pan doors are a good spot to check to make certain they are actually closed tightly, then there is the ever popular door gasket.

Basically any place where air can enter the fire box needs to be sealed.

All most all of the air that enters the firebox should go through the burn pot.

If the burn pot liner doesn't fit correctly you'll have buildup and eventually clinkers.

If any gaskets inside the fire box are bad you'll have build up and eventually clinkers.

If there is a lot of ash inside the stove you'll have build up and eventually clinkers.

After you are certain the air is going where it should and that you don't have a pile of ash in the stoves system then the fooling with burn adjustments can start.

The goal is to eject the ash (which should be kept to a minimum) so there is nothing in the burn pot to sinter (form clinkers).

Fine downward adjustments in the feed trim and/or small upward adjustments in air trim are the actions that should be tried.

All adjustments should be done in small steps with time to verify how each one effects the burn.

Stoves that allow complete control over the finer points of burning will be able to handle most fuels.

imacman said:

SmokeyTheBear said:

Clyde,

Some doors and stoves aren't flat.

Click to expand...

I could be wrong, but I remember looking at one of these stoves....the front of the stove and door are flat.

Unless the door latch is way out of adjustment, this could be a problem.

Remember, this stove was in the house when he bought it....who knows what happened to it before.

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I don't doubt that imacman, it is that not all stove door and bodies are nice and flat, there are even stoves with round doors and multiple angled doors.

I just didn't want him to make an assumption that may turn out to be wrong and gave him a means to determine if things were correct or not.

Clyde357 said:

I took the door off. It is flat; a machined surface in fact. I checked the top of the stove directly over the door and it is flat all the way across. The lower I move the square the worse the bow gets directly to the left of the hinge. If the manufacter does not offer a solution I'm just gonna heat it up with torch and smack it with a big hammer.

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If the manufacturer doesn't offer a solution you should document the situation including pictures before doing the torch and hammer job.

You never know when those pictures could come in handy.

How large is that bulge and what would have to come off to replace the piece the bulge is in? I hope it isn't the entire stove frame except for the door.

could make the door gasket thicker in the area that has the gap to fill it an easy way would be to attach the gasket to the stove in the bowed part

Clyde357 said:

The stove front is one piece. It would have to all come off to fix it properly. Not worth it. We will see if I get a response. If not in the mean time I added some of the flat glass gasket to the space where the door did not seal. I also filled in a couple of holes in the bottom of the firebox where the back panel was nipped to fit into the rolled corner of the base. I should know in a couple days if thier is improvment.

Thanks agian for all the help.

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Sounds like you are on your way Clyde. It is all in the air paths and always will be.

Keep us up to date and play it safe.

Remember that's fire and it can really cause a lot of grief if not treated with the utmost respect.