Best time of year to harvest oaks (PICs) ?

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cmnash

New Member
Dec 20, 2010
37
Eastern CT
Just how much does cutting oaks in early/late winter measurably hasten drying time as opposed to a spring/ summer cutting ? I assume as the tree goes into winter dormancy and nutrient uptake stops, there is less sap and moisture in the outer layers, therefore taking less time to season, but by how much ?

Here are some readings I just took from a red oak cut a few weeks ago in early December. Readings are from outer sapwood (24%) and one from inner heartwood (19.9%). Both readings, if accurate, seem low for a green tree.

I just split a medium size split to get an accurate reading. Maybe my new meter is being too kind or is there a significant difference in moisture content in these oaks from season to season ? Would the readings be much different if I cut in the summer ?

I'm rejoining the wood burning life after a 10 year break from it all. I sure would like to join the ranks of you fully seasoned wood guys and 2 years seems a long way off. If I can shave off 6 months, it's worth cutting some of my oaks before spring.

Thanks !
 

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I dont care what kinda of tree it is I want them all down by late Feb.
 
I have done a couple of experiments with cutting oaks at diffrent time of the year. Cutting trunks to 1 cubic foot and weighing them and have found No appreciable diffrence in the weight per cubic foot. The trees came within 50 feet of each other and the chunks were the same distance from the ground. I think the moisture contence is the same regardless of the time of year.
 
smokinjay said:
I dont care what kinda of tree it is I want them all down by late Feb.

+100 Precisely.The only time I cut any green trees from April to October is cleaning up sudden storm damage.Once in a while I used to ring the outer bark an inch or so with the saw,then drop it next year.But its easy to forget where they are if hidden deep in the timber unless marked with an orange X.
 
I have found oak is a great tree but it still takes at least 2 years to season and 3 is even better after it is split, and I agree I like to do my cutting and splitting before the 1st of March
 
There may be differences in water content through the year, but I don't think it is ever worth waiting to cut because you think the water content is going down. I believe it is always better to cut as soon as possible and get that wood split and stacked.
 
I can tell you that I cut a pin oak down last November and it has been burning nicely for me all this winter. That's slightly over a year to season. I split the large branches first and that is all that I have been burning this winter. The comments on the forum about oak had me very worried that it wouldn't ready in a year, but I can't argue with the hot fires this oak has produced.
 
any time one can avoid the skeets and bugs is good to me
 
what does your meter say those splits are once they've thawed out? ice doesn't conduct electricity the same as water does.
 
Never thought of that. I'll have to bring them in the house and retest. High today was 21 degrees.
 
benjamin said:
what does your meter say those splits are once they've thawed out? ice doesn't conduct electricity the same as water does.

I was going to say the same thing. Frozen wood will read low.
 
I have the same exact moisture meter, not sure from the pics but you might wanna try digging the prongs in a little bit further as I find that does make a tiny bit of difference. I know the oak is very hard and ya don't wanna break them but I haven't had any problems with my prongs.
 
I've almost always tried to get the trees down before March and in most cases this is best. However, I don't think you'll find a big difference in the moisture content of oaks, or at least we've not noticed much difference.

I also usually question those who burn oaks in a year. Perhaps they have never experienced what good dry wood really is like? For sure I've found this to be the case several times. They thought it burned just fine. Then they found some that was really seasoned good (3 years) and could hardly believe the difference. Sure, you can even burn oak the first year if you want, but you surely will not get the results you will with good dry stuff.
 
Thanks Dennis. I returned to wood burning just recently and knew the first year or 2 would be difficult. Reading one many books on the collapse of industrial society contributed to my wood stove purchase. Plus I have many old and dying trees on the property.

Fully dry seasoned firewood is just not sold around here and when marginal wood is all you have, you burn it.

I figure when oil prices really get insane (in 2-3 years), I'll be good to go with my 8 cords of newly cut red oak.
 
Hey, do you remember back in the middle 70's when the oil prices started going insane? Remember the long gas lines and people thought it so ridiculous, especially when the price of gas went over $.50 per gallon? Well, what will be said when it reaches $5.00 per gallon?! Yes, I do believe it is not too far away.

You certainly could not have gotten back into the wood burning routine at a better time. Oh how I wish I had 8 cord of red oak!!!!! Well, I cut maybe a cord of it this year. One more tree to cut (pin oak) yet but that has to wait until the snow is gone because it is on the side of a hill. I don't like skiing while cutting wood.
 
Yes I do. Even and odd license plates dictated if you got any gas at all. So now if the grid and transportation system goes down and the all the neighbor's fancy generators run dry, they'll be burning furniture; well seasoned I'm sure. Gas lines would be welcomed at that point.

I have a geothermal closed loop heating and cooling system PLUS a 7500 watt grid tied solar array on the barn roof. Together I'm close to a zero carbon footprint BUT neither system is worth anything in a catastrophic grid failure or a fossil fuel emergency shortage.

Either way, being independent of big oil and their foreign interests is an immediate return on investment......

Yeah, we have 2 feet of snow that limits my outdoor fun for a while too.
 
Flame On said:
I can tell you that I cut a pin oak down last November and it has been burning nicely for me all this winter. That's slightly over a year to season. I split the large branches first and that is all that I have been burning this winter. The comments on the forum about oak had me very worried that it wouldn't ready in a year, but I can't argue with the hot fires this oak has produced.

I have about 3 cords of oak (not sure what kind) that was a dead scrounged tree. The top halve broke and hung. It's been dead atleast a year or more (brown dead leafs all summer long). I've cut all of it, except for about 20 ft of the trunk due to a saw problem and will get it next weekend. All of the rounds when cut - did not show siqns of sap and looked fairly dry. I split a few rounds and I am hoping it will be ready next year. Will see. If not - I have other stuff I can burn while the oak becomes vintage. I will split it fairly small to aid in the seasoning.

I think if the tree was taken as dead - 1 year is doable.
 
Somthings wrong I have some chesnut Oak c/s/s in Jan 2010 that mc isnt that low yet. Ive noticed on my meter I take 2-3 readings different places get different readings.
 
Sounds about right for oak.
 
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