Enviro M55 burn questions

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Wachusett

Feeling the Heat
Apr 12, 2010
259
Wachusett Reservoir, MA.
I have a M55-FS installed and burning for 2 months and a couple questions for fellow owners. Do you burn on the setting for Regular pellets
or Premium? I burned Dragons and Barefoots on both settings and at all feed and air trim settings (learning curve/tinkering). When burning
Dragons on all settings the agitator pushes ash off the burn pot, however on Barefoots set at Regular pellets, heat level 3,feed rate 1, air trim 5
the agitator pushes red coals/ pellets off the pot, I can see them glowing in the ash pan, exhaust gas/smoke visible none. On Premium setting,
same settings, the agitator pushes black/grey ash of the burn pot, exhaust smoke is visible. On premium the pot naturally fills up more
between agitator times and seem to smolder a bit more (ie. the visible smoke).

How does this compare with you?
Agitator noise is agitating
No control over convection air annoying.

Dragons hot & clean. Barefoots HOT & little more ash.....real HOT!
 
Agitator noise is agravating...I burn on premium because it only runs around every .5 hours. The motor seems loud???
Was another post in here sometime ago about changing the motor?? Would be interested in hearing more about that??
When the stove is set to other than premium the agitator runs everytime the feed auger runs and then it is really agravating. Keep in mind I am not talking about a lot of noise but because the stove is pretty quiet the agiator noise is more noticable. Comments??...I am running an M55 C insert. Love the stove and I consider this a minor problem. Another issue the dealer is looking into is that the cast plate behind the feed shoot rubs against the exchanger cleaner and can fall forward. It seems to be only balanced in there. This seems to be a problem only with the insert. The FS has a plate that hols it on place below the exchanger cleaner. Dealer says he has checked out his demo model and has the same issue. Any others with the insert observe this problem?? I had to put a small screw in the feed shoot to hold it in place but I am still waiting for a more permenant solution from the manufacturer. When you use the exchanger cleaner it hangs up on the cast liner. Lookind forward to any input on these things???
 
Haven't noticed what type of embers the agitator pushes out. Got my M55 Steel installed in October (thanks to Jay for all the advice he gave me) and have been running on manual setting since. At first the setting was on normal pellets, feed rate of 3 and air trim of 3. I was burning Cleanfire from Woodpellets.com, then Penningtons, and now some Okanagans. So I turned the pellet setting to Premium, the Feed rate to 1 and the air trim to 1. Now i burn less pellets and the agitator turns every ten minutes. Also the back of the stove doesn't get that warm with these settings. The noise can be annoying at times, especially when it first tries to turn and makes a loud pop. And I agree, the blower should have an option to control the output some.

But overall i am happy with the M55. I wish Enviro had tech support, or better customer support. My dealer sucks and his install guys just don't know much about pellet stoves. Enviro should have these answers for us customers. But it is a nice stove and it puts out a lot of heat and i don't worry much about the quality of the pellets as it seems to eat up anything.

Do you hear a very slight clicking noise coming from the exchange tubes on Manual setting 2? I hear it on mine and figure it is the blower motor. If i turn it up it goes away.

Are you happy with your purchase?
 
Agreed the agitator is not terribly loud, its the increased noise on a timed basis, annoying like water torture.
Overall I am pleased with the stove, just trying to gain knowledge from first hand experiences. Learn any tips or tricks.
Yes dealer knowledge is limited, just a salesman. I have emailed Enviro ([email protected]) no response yet, not
complaining just looking for support/information.
 
Wachusett said:
Agitator noise is agitating

Probably why they called it an Agitator and not a stirrer. :) sorry couldn't resist!

Was you stove set with a magnehelic gauge when installed? It really sounds like you still don't have enough combustion air if your seeing smoke. You should also see black build ups starting. A sure sign on not enough air.

On the agitator noise. I saw it posted that you got some never seeze in the packet with the stove. Put some on both ends where it contacts the bushings in the stove body. The chain could also be to tight. There should be just a bit of slack in the chain. Make sure you lube the chain with some chain lube or light oil. There is also a bushing the sprocket goes thru. I add some oil there as well. If it is because of carbon buildup in the burnpot? Shut the stove down every couple of days and scrape it out with the supplied tool. The carbon build up is the pellets your burning and not the stoves fault.
 
j-takeman said:
Wachusett said:
Agitator noise is agitating

Probably why they called it an Agitator and not a stirrer. :) sorry couldn't resist![/b][/color]


Sorry just being punny, I couldn't resist either. The stove was not set up with a magnehelic, however the draft slider is wide open.
I don't think I can add more air. I just noticed the smoke this morning, when the pellets looked like they were piling up faster than they
could burn on Premium setting. Currently burning on Regular setting no more smoke, active flame, great heat, but with all the stirring
I have glowing embers falling over the ends of the burn pot almost to much agitator.
 
Hi All,
Just wanted to introduce myself. I recently installed an Enviro M55 a few weeks ago and certainly couldn't have done it without lurking on this board. Now that the stove is installed, I have been testing out pellets that are the most cost effective while buring the longest and producing the least amount of ash. So far I have burned some free pellets from a friend (wish I could remember the name of them)- they seemed to be the best. I have also burned Maine from Brock's Building Supplies and Maine's Choice from Lowes. The Maine pellets burned very quickly, left a lot of ash and were more expensive per bag. The Maine's Choice were pretty good. I want to try out a couple more before I purchase a ton or two.
 
Well I have stumbled upon a workaround. After reading through one of J-Takeman's old posts with auger timing and feed rates
I tried running the stove on multi-fuel thinking I am burning a dense pellet small in size (kinda like corn). Well this is working out
extremely well. The feed rate is a little slower allowing more burn time between auger feeds and the agitator turns a little less often
for less time (quieter)and few pellets overflowing. I am also able to burning at level 4 (more convection air) and a fire similar to level 3.
I think I am onto something. :)
 
Wachusett said:
Well I have stumbled upon a workaround. After reading through one of J-Takeman's old posts with auger timing and feed rates
I tried running the stove on multi-fuel thinking I am burning a dense pellet small in size (kinda like corn). Well this is working out
extremely well. The feed rate is a little slower allowing more burn time between auger feeds and the agitator turns a little less often
for less time (quieter)and few pellets overflowing. I am also able to burning at level 4 (more convection air) and a fire similar to level 3.
I think I am onto something. :)

Only draw back to the multifuel mode is there is a clean up cycle added to it. Once in a while(not sure about when it accures) the stove will go to low for 5 to 10 minutes(I never actually timed it) to help clean up the burnpot and empty out any excess fuel. This could also help you if you still get some build up or overfilling. With some playing and tinkering these units should be able to burn just about anything.

Still wondering why you have to open the damper all the way though. Can you discribe your vent pipe configuration?
 
j-takeman said:
Still wondering why you have to open the damper all the way though. Can you discribe your vent pipe configuration?


Vent is direct vent. 1-45* and 3 feet of pipe with hood (all 4"). May have to add some vertical pipe to increase draft.
 
Wachusett said:
j-takeman said:
Still wondering why you have to open the damper all the way though. Can you discribe your vent pipe configuration?


Vent is direct vent. 1-45* and 3 feet of pipe with hood (all 4"). May have to add some vertical pipe to increase draft.

I actually though you might have a 20 plus foot run of pipe or something. I don't see many direct vents with low air flow issues. But adding just enough to keep the EVL in check shouldn't hurt the draft any and may give some natural draft.

This baffles me on why you need to have the damper full open. Unless the collar on the damper shaft is locked restrickting the damper from opening more? This might make you think its full open but actually its not. Was the stove setup with a magnehelic gauge by the installer?
 
I installed an M-55 C insert about 3 wks ago. Installed with 20 feet of straight 4" flex. I'm overall very happy with the stove and would like to share what I have experienced. There was a cover plate added to the auger before they let me take the sove from the store. They also burned the paint smell off the stove and adjusted the damper to about half way open. I got the stove home and had it burning on high and didn't really think it produced the BTU's my old Whitman putout, so I slid the auger cover plate so that it was exactly covering half of factory opening.(about 1/2" open more than they had set it) Seems to putout satisfactory BTU's now. I burn Penwood pellets out of Omish country in Pa.(seem to burn well and produce less ash than some others I've used) The stove is set to prem and I've been monitoring this forum and read that others have the glass soot buildup in top right corner. My stove was set to 3 and 3 and I've set the combustion air to 4 and seems to help with the window soot to a light brown. I've also hooked the thermstat up and noticed that the stove dosn't seems to work totally correct. When the stove is on Auto setting and it satisfys the heat in the room its supposed to run on low for a period and than shut down. Mine does do this, however it does not start back up. It will just have a flashing 3 and to restart it I have to push the power button on. Also sometimes sometimes when I start the stove it will run a few minutes and seems normal than the fire will go out and that flashing 3 is on agin. Recycle the power button and stove runs fine. I'm working with a tech from my local store and I'll post what we find out. Hope this helps others...
 
Wachusett said:
Agreed the agitator is not terribly loud, its the increased noise on a timed basis, annoying like water torture.
Overall I am pleased with the stove, just trying to gain knowledge from first hand experiences. Learn any tips or tricks.
Yes dealer knowledge is limited, just a salesman. I have emailed Enviro ([email protected]) no response yet, not
complaining just looking for support/information.

Wach - In my stove there was a piece of paper titled "New Quality Control Procedure (M55C)." It basically says - we are implementing new quaility control procedures...we appreciate any feedback.

It has the Operations Manager contact information.

Stuart O'Connor - Operations Manager
Ph - 250-652-6080 ext 230
[email protected]

My stove had a couple of dings from the shipping process. I e-mail Stuart pictures and he called me that day.
 
Shorebilly said:
Wachusett said:
Agreed the agitator is not terribly loud, its the increased noise on a timed basis, annoying like water torture.
Overall I am pleased with the stove, just trying to gain knowledge from first hand experiences. Learn any tips or tricks.
Yes dealer knowledge is limited, just a salesman. I have emailed Enviro ([email protected]) no response yet, not
complaining just looking for support/information.

Wach - In my stove there was a piece of paper titled "New Quality Control Procedure (M55C)." It basically says - we are implementing new quaility control procedures...we appreciate any feedback.

It has the Operations Manager contact information.

Stuart O'Connor - Operations Manager
Ph - 250-652-6080 ext 230
[email protected]

My stove had a couple of dings from the shipping process. I e-mail Stuart pictures and he called me that day.

Stuart O'Connor was the guy who helped me with my install questions. Very prompt with replies and info. Very pleasent person to chat with and explained things in an understandable fashion. He even replied on a sunday! Top notch support! :)

I did ask him to join us here, But I guess he is just to busy.
 
Hi All,

Pellet stoves are not toasters. You don't just plug 'em in and go. Be sure to READ THE MANUAL before installing. This will guide you thru proper set-up and operation. The by-guess-and-by-golly approach will only cause you stress, headaches, and anxiety. The directions are quite clear on how the board works.

Mention made here in one of the posts of a blinking #3 light on the control board. The stove has several safety features that are supposed to shut the stove down if it detects a problem. Rather than unplugging your stove each time to reset the board, check to see what this indicator is trying to tell you. There is a reason you are getting this fault code. If you ignore it, you could end up causing yourself extra work, or worse... an expensive service call / repair.

Always install the stove using 4" pipe. With horizontal terminations, be sure to include at least 3-to-5 feet of vertical pipe to improve draft. Combustion air (outside air) is highly recommended. If installing in a basement area, I would say this is an absolute requirement. Stove can run in manual, hi-low T-Stat mode or Auto Stat mode. For folks that want to run in one of the two thermostatic modes, the factory supplies a wall-mounted thermostat with each stove as standard equipment. If you did not get this stat, be sure to use one that is millivolt type (not 24 volt).

Couple of things here with the Enviro M55 that make it different from other Enviro stoves.

First, the damper on these units comes preset from the manufacturer (the Omega had to be set on initial firing). This is an approximate average setting that will work for most typical applications. As per instructions in the manual, any initial air adjustments should be made using the circuit board (not the slider / damper). Fine tuning here allows you to increase / decrease feed rate for the pellets, and also allows you to increase / decrease combustion blower voltage which will increase / decrease air moving thru the stove. If fine tuning is required, do this first prior to opening or closing the slider/damper door. I have installed several of these stoves and not had to touch the slider / damper a single time. That said, every install can be different. All depends on vent configuration, elevation, and fuel type. A pro will use a magnahelic to ensure the air is set exactly where it should be. Unless you want to invest in a mag, do-it-yourselfers will have to use the trial-and-error method.

Stove has three pre-sets for fuel type: Premium / Regular / Multifuel. Poorer fuels may require more time in the burn pot for more efficient combustion. Each of the three programs will automatically change the fuel feed rates and agitator rotation intervals / self-clean intervals accordingly.

As you may have read on this site, you really have to watch with fuel. Even if the fuel is labelled "PREMIUM" - it may not be. Aside from ash content, pellet density is also important. Also, commonly overlooked is moisture content. Do not buy old fuel -- especially if it has been stored outdoors. Pellets will absorb something like 7 times their weight by volume. This is why the reject pellets are often sold as kitty litter or horse bedding. The really nice thing with these Enviro stoves is that they have the ability to easily cope with the poorer fuels. If you notice that you have red coals or unburned pellets spilling out the sides of the pot, might be an idea to switch from the premium setting down to the regular setting. Worst case scenario, go to multifuel setting.

If you are still having problems after reading the manual, there are some good training videos for the M55 posted on YouTube.
Just go to Google and type in "Youtube Enviro M55 Pellet Stove". You will have a wide selection on everything from operation, to basic troubleshooting and repair.

One final note... be sure to follow the manufacturer's advice for routine cleaning & maintenance. The more fuel you burn, the more often you have to follow the routines. If your stove has been left unused for a long period of time, do not assume the stove is ready to go. Often, little critters (mice, insects, birds etc.)can move in over the summer and build nests within air passages, combustion blowers or vent pipe.

Regards!
 
Fireplace Guy said:
Hi All,

Pellet stoves are not toasters. You don't just plug 'em in and go. Be sure to READ THE MANUAL before installing. This will guide you thru proper set-up and operation. The by-guess-and-by-golly approach will only cause you stress, headaches, and anxiety. The directions are quite clear on how the board works.

Mention made here in one of the posts of a blinking #3 light on the control board. The stove has several safety features that are supposed to shut the stove down if it detects a problem. Rather than unplugging your stove each time to reset the board, check to see what this indicator is trying to tell you. There is a reason you are getting this fault code. If you ignore it, you could end up causing yourself extra work, or worse... an expensive service call / repair.

Always install the stove using 4" pipe. With horizontal terminations, be sure to include at least 3-to-5 feet of vertical pipe to improve draft. Combustion air (outside air) is highly recommended. If installing in a basement area, I would say this is an absolute requirement. Stove can run in manual, hi-low T-Stat mode or Auto Stat mode. For folks that want to run in one of the two thermostatic modes, the factory supplies a wall-mounted thermostat with each stove as standard equipment. If you did not get this stat, be sure to use one that is millivolt type (not 24 volt).

Couple of things here with the Enviro M55 that make it different from other Enviro stoves.

First, the damper on these units comes preset from the manufacturer (the Omega had to be set on initial firing). This is an approximate average setting that will work for most typical applications. As per instructions in the manual, any initial air adjustments should be made using the circuit board (not the slider / damper). Fine tuning here allows you to increase / decrease feed rate for the pellets, and also allows you to increase / decrease combustion blower voltage which will increase / decrease air moving thru the stove. If fine tuning is required, do this first prior to opening or closing the slider/damper door. I have installed several of these stoves and not had to touch the slider / damper a single time. That said, every install can be different. All depends on vent configuration, elevation, and fuel type. A pro will use a magnahelic to ensure the air is set exactly where it should be. Unless you want to invest in a mag, do-it-yourselfers will have to use the trial-and-error method.

Stove has three pre-sets for fuel type: Premium / Regular / Multifuel. Poorer fuels may require more time in the burn pot for more efficient combustion. Each of the three programs will automatically change the fuel feed rates and agitator rotation intervals / self-clean intervals accordingly.

As you may have read on this site, you really have to watch with fuel. Even if the fuel is labelled "PREMIUM" - it may not be. Aside from ash content, pellet density is also important. Also, commonly overlooked is moisture content. Do not buy old fuel -- especially if it has been stored outdoors. Pellets will absorb something like 7 times their weight by volume. This is why the reject pellets are often sold as kitty litter or horse bedding. The really nice thing with these Enviro stoves is that they have the ability to easily cope with the poorer fuels. If you notice that you have red coals or unburned pellets spilling out the sides of the pot, might be an idea to switch from the premium setting down to the regular setting. Worst case scenario, go to multifuel setting.

If you are still having problems after reading the manual, there are some good training videos for the M55 posted on YouTube.
Just go to Google and type in "Youtube Enviro M55 Pellet Stove". You will have a wide selection on everything from operation, to basic troubleshooting and repair.

One final note... be sure to follow the manufacturer's advice for routine cleaning & maintenance. The more fuel you burn, the more often you have to follow the routines. If your stove has been left unused for a long period of time, do not assume the stove is ready to go. Often, little critters (mice, insects, birds etc.)can move in over the summer and build nests within air passages, combustion blowers or vent pipe.

Regards!

Very Nice write up Fireplace Guy! A pellet stove definetly isn't a toaster, But these Enviro's sure give you plenty of options to tweak the burn. Select what how dark you want them toasted and whether you want butter or jam. Push the go button an the stove will do the rest. :)

I think every M55 owner should check out the cleaning vids Enviro has on youtube. There priceless for the beginners. Hopefully Enviro will get a little more indepth on the multifuel side of these controllers when the fuels become available?
 
Like mine just lightly toasted. I hear black toast can cause cancer! LOL

The more I see of the Enviro M55 line, the more I like them. Now, you can pick from steel or cast versions. They even offer the cast insert which is also approved for zero clearance. The Maxx will also be available with the same low-maintenance burner and agitator system (identical to what you have on your Omega).
 
Fireplace Guy said:
Like mine just lightly toasted. I hear black toast can cause cancer! LOL

The more I see of the Enviro M55 line, the more I like them. Now, you can pick from steel or cast versions. They even offer the cast insert which is also approved for zero clearance. The Maxx will also be available with the same low-maintenance burner and agitator system (identical to what you have on your Omega).

When you say the cast insert is approved for zero clearance...what does that mean? I had to build a Durock box around mine per the installation manual. Did something change?
Flynfrfun
 
No, you are OK. A lot of "inserts" cannot be installed in zc applications because they are not tested or approved for that application.
The M55 is different. As you have done, just follow advice for building the rough-in enclosure as shown in the instructions (for those who are following along, see below).

From their manual:

Installation without a masonry fireplace -
The M55C-FPI can be installed without an existing masonry fireplace by building an enclosure for the
unit to be installed in. This enclosure must be a minimum of 18†deep, 36†wide and 23-1/4†high and
made with ½†noncombustible cement board. The floor of the enclosure must consist of a minimum of
1-1/4†air space and a layer of ½†noncombustible cement board and a layer of tile. The air space must
be supported with sheet metal studs and have no combustible material in the air space.
 
I'm still tinkering with my new M55. I have it set up on HI/LO with a remote thermostat. When it was first installed the agitator used to come on simultaneously with the feed auger. I had to shut the stove down for a little while / unplug it after the first week to do some routine cleaning and stuff, and when I reset the controls back to HI/LO now the agitator only turns a little bit every half an hour.

Weird.

I tried resetting everything again to see if it would go back to turn in conjunction with the feed auger, but no luck.

However- I'm not to upset with this because frankly I've noticed no downside to this. The burn pot looks fine, the excess ash gets moved out when the agitator rotates every half an hour and the house stays warm, so meh.. who cares.

I'm burning Eureka pellets and they seem to be doing the trick. I've got the trim and related adjustments still at factory settings and things seem to be fine. Little ash build up, glass only gets slightly smudged every few days and the house is warm.
 
Threerun said:
I'm still tinkering with my new M55. I have it set up on HI/LO with a remote thermostat. When it was first installed the agitator used to come on simultaneously with the feed auger. I had to shut the stove down for a little while / unplug it after the first week to do some routine cleaning and stuff, and when I reset the controls back to HI/LO now the agitator only turns a little bit every half an hour.

Weird.

I tried resetting everything again to see if it would go back to turn in conjunction with the feed auger, but no luck.

However- I'm not to upset with this because frankly I've noticed no downside to this. The burn pot looks fine, the excess ash gets moved out when the agitator rotates every half an hour and the house stays warm, so meh.. who cares.

I'm burning Eureka pellets and they seem to be doing the trick. I've got the trim and related adjustments still at factory settings and things seem to be fine. Little ash build up, glass only gets slightly smudged every few days and the house is warm.

When you unplug the stove the stove goes back to factory default settings. The fuel mode is reset to premeum. To change it back to regular or standard fuel you need to shut the stove down and let it cool. Once the blowers stop press the fuel mode button to change it to regular fuel. You will be back to the setting of agitator will rotate on every auger turn.

Your feed/comb air trims are also reset to default settings. So if you had them tweaked to the fuel your running, They settings are not as they were before power down. I always keep a note handy by the stove with the settings logged down for the current fuel. Once I repower the stove I set the trims to the note before I refire the stove.

All this is in the owners manual for further reference.
 
Yup- when I unplugged the unit I reset everything back to the settings as they were before (had them written down). I even tried shutting down the stove by powering off (not unplugging it), let it cool down, then reset it. The agitator still only operates once every half an hour as opposed to cycling when the feed auger runs.

I've called the tech at the dealer and left a message for some insight to it..
 
Threerun, when the stove is powering off, or completely off press the "fuel type" button. You may have to press and hold for second, then release and
wait a few seconds for the light to change. I have noticed if you press quick or are impatient waiting for light to change you can miss the setting.
 
Gotta keep in mind that the agitator on the M55 does not always turn in conjuction with the auger - that is not the way it is designed.
Agitator will only turn continuosly from time to time during a cleaning cycle (to break up clinker). Otherwise, only rotates in very small increments that are hard to notice unless you watch really closely. With each partial turn, the forks on the agitator keep slowly pushing the burning pellets and ash to the sides of the burn pot. Easy way to pin this down is to listen for the agitator motor as it starts and stops. Somewhere in my stuff, I have details on the timing for the agitator cycle in each mode. Will see if I can find it and post for you.
 
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