Anyone with an Avalon Arbor wood-stove willing to share their experience with every day use. Just got mine thanksgiving week and still struggling with it.. Just curious how everyone else uses theirs
Avalon Arbor
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There are several threads on burning in this style stove. You may have more luck searching on it's sister, the Lopi Leyden. Also look up downdraft stove.
Is the wood very well seasoned? That is very important with this stove as is a good draft.
Is the wood very well seasoned? That is very important with this stove as is a good draft.
Jim P
Member
Hey Turfguy. I have a Lopi Leyden. Let me know what you are having trouble with I will try to help. I am in my 3rd. season with this stove and am able to burn it with ease. Jim
Jim P said:
Thanks Jim,
I might be better off explaining the process that I go through to get this stove warm. We typically bur 24/7, when I start a fire back up from coals when I get home from work or when I wake up in the morning I usually add two splits on the coals and leave the door cracked to get them to flame up. I typically have to leave the flue and air control open till these splits burn down to hot ash. After that I rake the coals away from the back of the stove and fill the stove up. leaving the flue and air control open all the way I usually let that wood burn till the stove top gets to 550 to 650 range. then I will close down the flue and then gradually close the air control down. But the stove seems to have a hard time maintaining that temp once air control is used. usually after a few hours the temps slowly go down. Not sure if I am doing this correctly or not.
Jim P
Member
Turfguy,
I am glad to hear that you are able to get the temps up and I guess you are getting decent burn times. When in a good burn with damper and air closed my stove top drops to 450-500 F. I have a Condar thermometer probe in the flue pipe 18 inches above the stove. I will bring the stove top up to 500-550 F. and the flue up to 900 F. Then shut the flue and slowly close the air.
I like to see most of the wood engulfed in flame before shutting the air all the way. Sometimes I need to do this process a second time if the temps drop fast. (like the flue dropping to 500F in ten minutes) or just open the air again.
I know I have a good secondary burn when the chimney has no visible smoke. Stove top stays above 450F. Flue stays above 400F. You should see ghost flames when you first close down. Somewhere in the firebox you will see a constant flame sometimes only seen as light in the back. The glass should stay clean- sometimes in front of the andirons will be black.
I love this stove . It has always reacted in a predictable way. Easy to control with the proper user input.
With that said it did take a season or more before I was comfortable and I almost forgot the most important thing Dry Wood. Jim
I am glad to hear that you are able to get the temps up and I guess you are getting decent burn times. When in a good burn with damper and air closed my stove top drops to 450-500 F. I have a Condar thermometer probe in the flue pipe 18 inches above the stove. I will bring the stove top up to 500-550 F. and the flue up to 900 F. Then shut the flue and slowly close the air.
I like to see most of the wood engulfed in flame before shutting the air all the way. Sometimes I need to do this process a second time if the temps drop fast. (like the flue dropping to 500F in ten minutes) or just open the air again.
I know I have a good secondary burn when the chimney has no visible smoke. Stove top stays above 450F. Flue stays above 400F. You should see ghost flames when you first close down. Somewhere in the firebox you will see a constant flame sometimes only seen as light in the back. The glass should stay clean- sometimes in front of the andirons will be black.
I love this stove . It has always reacted in a predictable way. Easy to control with the proper user input.
With that said it did take a season or more before I was comfortable and I almost forgot the most important thing Dry Wood. Jim
Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the Avalon
I pretty much agree with everything Jim P said
I want to emphasize you do need to establish a fire before closing the damper
I would try running your stove top temperature a little higher (650-700) before you go to secondary burn,
typically you get some drop in stovetop temp. when you close the damper
Keep us posted
I pretty much agree with everything Jim P said
I want to emphasize you do need to establish a fire before closing the damper
I would try running your stove top temperature a little higher (650-700) before you go to secondary burn,
typically you get some drop in stovetop temp. when you close the damper
Keep us posted
i believe the manual recommends a 45 min to 60 min burn before you close down the bypass, i've been burning the Leyden (same stove) & love it. Two things you need to make sure you do as far as maintenance. In the back brick of the stove, near the floor you will see two "slots" where the exhaust enters the combustion brick when the bypass is closed. About twice a burn season, when the stove is shut down (cold) take a small vac hose & pull the loose ash out that collects in there, putting your hand in the slots & bending ur fingers down you can check the ash level. This will make a big difference in the burn if kept clean. Second is when you clean the chimney, take the stove pipe off the top of the stove & stick your vac hose down each side of the combustor brick, can see this by looking down the flue collar into the stove. Most of the new ones have plugs in the back plate inside the stove to access this, but personally think its easier to take the pipe off rather than take the back brick out of the stove. Glad to help with any questions if needed.
I find that if I have a nice deep, hot coal bed, then when reloading if I lay a couple splits with the sharp edges down and one of the splits right up against the "shoe" as it's called (the inlet to the rear combustor), then I can immediately close the bypass and she'll take right off again. Then once the combustor is solidly going I'll add more splits. Need nice dry wood up against the shoe, and hot orange coals going up to the bottom of the two openings.
A note regarding vacuuming out the combustor: Be very careful if vacuuming out the ash in those two openings. The combustor in the back is made of very light refractory material and is a bit delicate. I would be very careful of touching it.
A note regarding vacuuming out the combustor: Be very careful if vacuuming out the ash in those two openings. The combustor in the back is made of very light refractory material and is a bit delicate. I would be very careful of touching it.
ControlFreak said:
i find it best to put my hand in one side & the tube in the other, get it with my fingers & guide it down so it's not gouging the combustor material.
Troutchaser
New Member
I found that with the damper and air wide open my flue gets way too hot. If I back the air down to combat this I get a very smoky start-up. So I gradually close the damper down while leaving the air wide open. Otherwise all of that heat that could be warming the back of the stove and the combuster are rocketing up the flue.
Generally, before I can close the air all the way down with the bypass closed and keep the combuster lit, my flue temps are in the 900*-1000* range. Stove top (behind loading top) is 600*-700*(with the blower running).
Red hot coals in front of the shoe are critical. If the stove is full of hot coals, but I have only a charred split sitting in front of that shoe, I'm going to be a long time getting the combuster lit.
Makes you wonder why some primary air couldn't enter the stove back by the shoe. Cause if you load up with splits and don't have those red hot coals back there, you've got to wait for that little bit of secondary air to get that split red hot. All of your primary air enters in front of the glass and that's where your red hot coals will be until you let secondaries take over.
I like to get the combuster lit before filling the stove. Even with the damper cracked when charring those fresh splits, the combuster should stay lit with enough air.
And you can hear it when opening the loading lid. Sounds like a little jet engine down there. Don't linger with the damper open, load stove, give those new splits a minute to catch if you have to, then close damper, control air to keep flue temps in check while the new splits are charring.
I sometimes don't even char the new splits if I just dropped in a couple. Doesn't seem to hurt the burn other than getting the glass a little dirtier.
Sounds like a lot, but really involves no more thought than tubers and catters put into their stoves once you get the hang of it.
Generally, before I can close the air all the way down with the bypass closed and keep the combuster lit, my flue temps are in the 900*-1000* range. Stove top (behind loading top) is 600*-700*(with the blower running).
Red hot coals in front of the shoe are critical. If the stove is full of hot coals, but I have only a charred split sitting in front of that shoe, I'm going to be a long time getting the combuster lit.
Makes you wonder why some primary air couldn't enter the stove back by the shoe. Cause if you load up with splits and don't have those red hot coals back there, you've got to wait for that little bit of secondary air to get that split red hot. All of your primary air enters in front of the glass and that's where your red hot coals will be until you let secondaries take over.
I like to get the combuster lit before filling the stove. Even with the damper cracked when charring those fresh splits, the combuster should stay lit with enough air.
And you can hear it when opening the loading lid. Sounds like a little jet engine down there. Don't linger with the damper open, load stove, give those new splits a minute to catch if you have to, then close damper, control air to keep flue temps in check while the new splits are charring.
I sometimes don't even char the new splits if I just dropped in a couple. Doesn't seem to hurt the burn other than getting the glass a little dirtier.
Sounds like a lot, but really involves no more thought than tubers and catters put into their stoves once you get the hang of it.
In addition to what the other guys said, I find when starting without a good coal bed it is very helpful to use much smaller splits or branch wood. That will give you more heat and more coals more quickly, and help you get the secondary combustion going sooner. I do a half load of small stuff, let it burn down, then do a full load that's half smaller stuff on the bottom and half bigger splits on top.
Troutchaser
New Member
branchburner said:
Does burning that small stuff make for a very smoky start-up? I've been mixing small pieces and medium splits to build a coal bed and try to minimize smoke. Sometimes I throw in a big hunk or two of whatever with it and leave the air open longer.
Nothing like fresh coals though. I find this important on morning start-ups.
Those overnight coals help, but just don't perform like those ragin' hot chunks. That's where the tubers get us.
Troutchaser said:
When you say you like to get the combuster lit, what do you mean? Should I see flames coming from the combustor in the back?
Should I be able to heat my house with this stove? Seems as tough the house can barely get into the 70's when i close the flue completely. MY wife is getting pissed about being cold all the time cause I refuse to run the NG furnace and want to burn the wood to heat the house. Thanks for any and all help
Also I am noticing that I have to keep the air control open almost all the way with the flue closed and stove at 650 just to keep the stove warm and get the house up to 70
Jim P
Member
Turfguy, 1500 sq.ft. on one level should not be a problem to heat. Try placing a small fan on the floor in the doorway of the room you want to warm. Pull the cool air out -blowing toward the stove. Also keep your cruising burn temps above 500 deg. F.
The combustor will make a low rumble sound when engaged. I don't hear it 100% of the time. I am happy if my temps stay stay within range and the stack has no visible smoke. You should be getting at least 6 to 8 hours of decent burn times if not more.
Fan running and nice bed of coals at end. You will get the hang of it. Thanks for asking questions. I am learning from the other responses.Without this site I would have given up. Jim
The combustor will make a low rumble sound when engaged. I don't hear it 100% of the time. I am happy if my temps stay stay within range and the stack has no visible smoke. You should be getting at least 6 to 8 hours of decent burn times if not more.
Fan running and nice bed of coals at end. You will get the hang of it. Thanks for asking questions. I am learning from the other responses.Without this site I would have given up. Jim
Maybe check out your stove top thermometer, I've had a lot of trouble getting an accurate one this year.
I would think burning around 650* you should be keeping the house quite warm
I would think burning around 650* you should be keeping the house quite warm
Smokey Bear said:
Stove top was right around 600 at 6pm closed the flue and almost all the way open on the air control I am at 500 range but inside thermometer in room of stove is only 70
Jim P
Member
If your stove top stays 500 deg F for a couple of hours room temp will come up. Most days I have the window next to my stove slightly open. Watch your temps -they can shoot up very fast with full load of wood and air open. A probe thermo in the flue will make it easier to get into that secondary burn. Jim
Thanks everyone. Seems as though we have some success. I started a box fan on the floor separating our living room(w/ stove) and our dinning room facing the stove. Well after about 30 minutes of cold air blowing across the floor, the warm is traveling. Many of the rooms in our house are the warmest they have ever been with just burning wood. We have also let our stove get up to 650 on the top on reloads with the flue just cracked then we close the flue. My living room is about 80 now!
Jim P
Member
I'm not sure about that(j/K) but she is passed out on the couch in the living room and I did get a high 5 for heating the whole house now before she fell asleep
Troutchaser
New Member
Glad to hear you're not sleeping in the dog house tonight, Turfguy.
That stove will have no problem heating your home. It's just a matter of circulating the air. Like your doing. Blow air into the stove room from the room your trying to warm.
We've heated this 11/2 story 1800 sq. ft. home all season with about 1.2 cords of wood so far. Nobody home during the day and the house will be uppper 60's in the evenings when we get home.
Also, small and medium splits will keep your temps up with the primary air greatly reduced. With a good coal bed I can't run with primary open all the way or flue temps head up over 1000*. But then it depends on coal bed, wood size, and to some extent outdoor temps. Big wood means more air.
As far as lighting the combuster before loading, that's just a quirk of mine. When coals are deep, place on those first two splits (smaller) of the next load. They'll catch immediately. Close the damper, but keep air wide open and let those flames and heat kick into that combuster hard. It'll be glowing red in no time. Then crack damper, load remaining splits and close it up. I started this because I was burning the overnight wood load down to nothing trying to get the ever-lovin' combuster lit off- coal bed be damned.
Now, I've got to go get some coals hot . . .
That stove will have no problem heating your home. It's just a matter of circulating the air. Like your doing. Blow air into the stove room from the room your trying to warm.
We've heated this 11/2 story 1800 sq. ft. home all season with about 1.2 cords of wood so far. Nobody home during the day and the house will be uppper 60's in the evenings when we get home.
Also, small and medium splits will keep your temps up with the primary air greatly reduced. With a good coal bed I can't run with primary open all the way or flue temps head up over 1000*. But then it depends on coal bed, wood size, and to some extent outdoor temps. Big wood means more air.
As far as lighting the combuster before loading, that's just a quirk of mine. When coals are deep, place on those first two splits (smaller) of the next load. They'll catch immediately. Close the damper, but keep air wide open and let those flames and heat kick into that combuster hard. It'll be glowing red in no time. Then crack damper, load remaining splits and close it up. I started this because I was burning the overnight wood load down to nothing trying to get the ever-lovin' combuster lit off- coal bed be damned.
Now, I've got to go get some coals hot . . .
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