ice dams

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Don2222 said:
Hello

Any ideas on this?

I have good insulation but I still have a premature melt line from the sofit all the way up to the ridge right where the Vent pipe is??
It makes more icicles on the overhang outside the bathroom window and drives me nuts

So what do I do to prevent this?

Pic 1 & 3 shows issue

Pic 2 shows aluminum foil coated foam board I screwed into the 2 rafters where the vent is from the sofit to the ridge as a possible fix??
Heat is going up the vent pipe chaceway in the walls. Spray foam it in the attic where the vent pipe exits the ceiling below.
 
FordMastertech said:
Don2222 said:
Hello

Any ideas on this?

I have good insulation but I still have a premature melt line from the sofit all the way up to the ridge right where the Vent pipe is??
It makes more icicles on the overhang outside the bathroom window and drives me nuts

So what do I do to prevent this?

Pic 1 & 3 shows issue

Pic 2 shows aluminum foil coated foam board I screwed into the 2 rafters where the vent is from the sofit to the ridge as a possible fix??
Heat is going up the vent pipe chaceway in the walls. Spray foam it in the attic where the vent pipe exits the ceiling below.

That is a good idea!

I do have fiberglass insulation around it but maybe not a good seal?
 
Shortstuff said:
Don2222 it looks like that is a PVC pipe. It wouldn't hurt to add another foot or two with a coupler would it?

Thanks for the reply. It is copper. When the house was built in 1962 copper was cheap!
However you are right, I think according to the latest building codes it is too short. Should it be 18 inches? Can I just sweat another copper piece with a coupler?
 
Don2222 said:
Shortstuff said:
Don2222 it looks like that is a PVC pipe. It wouldn't hurt to add another foot or two with a coupler would it?

Thanks for the reply. It is copper. When the house was built in 1962 copper was cheap!
However you are right, I think according to the latest building codes it is too short. Should it be 18 inches? Can I just sweat another copper piece with a coupler?

I don't know what your codes are up in NH but you can go to your NH government website and find the link to building codes. Sure you can sweat on a copper coupler and add another pipe or just purchase a rubber collar and add another piece too.
 
Shortstuff said:
Don2222 said:
Shortstuff said:
Don2222 it looks like that is a PVC pipe. It wouldn't hurt to add another foot or two with a coupler would it?

Thanks for the reply. It is copper. When the house was built in 1962 copper was cheap!
However you are right, I think according to the latest building codes it is too short. Should it be 18 inches? Can I just sweat another copper piece with a coupler?

I don't know what your codes are up in NH but you can go to your NH government website and find the link to building codes. Sure you can sweat on a copper coupler and add another pipe or just purchase a rubber collar and add another piece too.

It says 12 inches on E-How, mine looks shorter?

From E-How >> http://www.ehow.com/how_7686231_work-sewer-vent-pipes.html
Cut the vent pipe so it is it 12 inches above the roof, or what code dictates in your area.

Read more: How to Work on Sewer Vent Pipes | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7686231_work-sewer-vent-pipes.html#ixzz1CldTpiOK

Here is something else I found.
Kentucky plumbing code and look in Section 15. Main Stack 3 inches in diameter. One foot above the roof or five feet above the roof if accessible.

Also (This is it!) -- Thanks for your help!
The code book from IPC, unless some changes have been made, The lowest acceptable height of a stack in NH is 12". We have snow here so where you live may be different.

And must be 2' above and 10' away from any opening window.
 
Shortstuff,

Did you attack that ice dam? What was your plan?
 
Kevin C said:
Shortstuff,

Did you attack that ice dam? What was your plan?

All I could do was snow rake what I could initially reach then using a hand-held ax (heavy and wedge-shaped) I chopped off about a 10' length of the ice dam. I then got up on the roof and shoveled off as much as I could get done in 6 hours in that general area. I probably cleared about 500 sq.ft. of roof right down to the shingles in that time. The rest of the roof averages from between 1' to 2' of snow on it which I can live with for now. If we were to expect more heavy snow I will probably get back up there and clear off more.

I've been told that my trusses were designed to hold a good 4' of snow load but of course depending on the type of snow it is (wet/packed/loose/light) that number could vary quite a bit. It's more of a judgment call I think. Now if I were to start hearing a lot of "snap-crackle-pop" then I think I've pressed my luck a little too much - and it's probably too late to deal with.
 
I'm glad to see that you didn't shy away from the axe. Yes,if you can't hit things straight and your eyesight is poor,you can do a lot of damage. An axe can really move a lot of ice that beats hot water and salt.
 
Shortstuff said:
Kevin C said:
Shortstuff,

Did you attack that ice dam? What was your plan?

All I could do was snow rake what I could initially reach then using a hand-held ax (heavy and wedge-shaped) I chopped off about a 10' length of the ice dam. I then got up on the roof and shoveled off as much as I could get done in 6 hours in that general area. I probably cleared about 500 sq.ft. of roof right down to the shingles in that time. The rest of the roof averages from between 1' to 2' of snow on it which I can live with for now. If we were to expect more heavy snow I will probably get back up there and clear off more.

I've been told that my trusses were designed to hold a good 4' of snow load but of course depending on the type of snow it is (wet/packed/loose/light) that number could vary quite a bit. It's more of a judgment call I think. Now if I were to start hearing a lot of "snap-crackle-pop" then I think I've pressed my luck a little too much - and it's probably too late to deal with.

The section that you broke with the ax, were you able to remove it in chunks? Did it look like the ice had backed up under the shingles?
 
I was able to get it off in good size chunks, softball size and larger. And yes it did get up under the shingles as is the nature of the beast.
 
I haven't examined the whole thread here,maybe it was discussed, but road salt is slow and there are much better "melters" on the market that cost more but pay for themselves in time and effort and will work very nicely in lower temps where road salt stops working. Also some less damaging to surroundings-nature friendly,but just as effective.
 
pete324rocket said:
I haven't examined the whole thread here,maybe it was discussed, but road salt is slow and there are much better "melters" on the market that cost more but pay for themselves in time and effort and will work very nicely in lower temps where road salt stops working. Also some less damaging to surroundings-nature friendly,but just as effective.
the problem with that is finding it for sale . unless you buy it online pretty much everyone eles bought all the stores out around here
 
My brother broke up some ice dams today on our house.

Update: Before and after pic of brother breaking up ice dam
with an ice pick and a hammer. Worked pretty good actually.
Can't tell but we raked back a couple feet from the edge.
At least most of the leaks stopped.
Tomorrow I will try to reach more of that snow with the rake
which should make the leak completely cease.

and a video of the oh so exciting ice dam breaking process. lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuyeLYR-qDg
 

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Is it ok to blast hot water on my ice dams that are too high up on my roof for me to reach with a roof rake? Also, is it ok to use the hot water when the temperature is 20 degrees or so here (well below freezing?). Also, since I had a small leak into my living room from the ice dam, am I running the risk of having the hot water leak through the roof? I need to get these ice dams off my house, but I have them all over the place on multiple levels that are hard to reach. If it's helpful, I can certainly post some photos. Thanks!

Michael G.
 
I have no leaks so far but have some serious ice build-up in my gutters, i will make a bunch of Ice Socks from my wife's P-hose tommorow and throw them up there.
Strange how they say to lay them vertical on the roof, than horizontal in the gutter.
 
Two hours ago I put a couple of homemade "roof socks" on the roof
in areas that had leaks and the leaks have stopped. I cut the legs
of a pair of pantyhose and filled each one with calcium chloride
then tossed them on the roof and positioned them vertical with
the ends hanging over the gutter a bit. What it does is helps to
cut a channel in the ice that will allow the water to run down.
I haven't gone back outside but the leak has stopped. It's best
if you can to rake the snow about 6 ft back from the gutter
and then put a sock in place. This is a big pita. The hell with
the snowplowing money, I can't wait for Spring!
 
A nice trick I just learned was to use a hammer with the curved end of a flat bar. You strike the back side of the flat bar and drive the curved end into the ice. A chuck of ice will pop out, and the remaining ice will stop the flatbar from penetrating any father, which is nice if you've ever driven a hatchet through your rake edge (guilty). this probably wouldn't work too well on 2' of ice but for an area starting but build up over my gutters it was pretty cool.
 
Looks like its my turn for roof socks-ice socks-gutter socks or what ever you call them. No ice dam leaks yet. But the wifey is getting nervous with all the roof collapsing happening. Last night my son heard a loud pop over his room and we went up in the attic. Everything looks fine, But there is more snow on the roof than I though. So to settle the nerves. We will rack the roof and put up some ice socks. Heck I may just toss some calcium chloride all over the roof to help melt whats there. No stinking way this old fool is scrambling on the roof to shovel. I rather pay to have a new roof installed, But read that calcium chloride doesn't damage the shingles. Neighbors out to get a kick out of me flinging ice-melt into the sky!

Off to Lowes for ice melt and another excuse to see what they have for pellets left! :)
 
Jay, did the calcium chloride search yesterday. Nothing at HD, nada at Lowes, nothing at my local ACE hardware...Finally found some at CP Building Supply in South Hampton. It was under the brand name Ice Melt.

My roof looks fine on the main house but the addition has some ice. I did have to shovel off the roof of the motorhome in case we get some rain.
 
The pantyhose filled with calcium chloride works.
Put a couple up last night and they are melting
a channel in the dams and water is flowing off
now. Proof by the blue color in the snow below.
I too am not going up on the roof so between
raking and these I think things are under control now.
 
Phatty said:
ok ive searched and didnt find what i am looking for .i have ice dams again this year after every snow fall i rake the roof
never had this problem till i addad a second layer of insulation 3 years ago i made sure the eves were not covered with
insulation this house is 100 plus years old has blown in insulation in the walls ive seen pics on here of pink foam between
the joists in the attic is this the easiest fix ?

The best method to eliminate ice dams is to install vents in the entire length of the overhangs (soffits) and install a ridge vent .
You must also ensure the attic floor insulation doesn`t not block the airflow from those soffit vents . (directly above the outside walls. Some builders still think insulating that space is the way to go but they are very wrong. The use of styrofoam boards are useful here.
However if you have gutters you will still be susceptable to ice build up and overflowing in them right up and onto the roof edge depending on weather conditions. Of course you can install gutter heating cables to melt that ice but they don`t last forever either and you need outlets installed for them.(it gets expensive)
And those cables make it harder to clean the gutters out too.
Anyway you dice it winter is a real PIA.
 
My 1950's house has NO overhang, the gutter is the only ice filled overhang there is........ :(
What were people thinking back then?
I have never owned a home with leaks so I guess I'm lucky.
 
mikeasmel said:
Is it ok to blast hot water on my ice dams that are too high up on my roof for me to reach with a roof rake? Also, is it ok to use the hot water when the temperature is 20 degrees or so here (well below freezing?). Also, since I had a small leak into my living room from the ice dam, am I running the risk of having the hot water leak through the roof? I need to get these ice dams off my house, but I have them all over the place on multiple levels that are hard to reach. If it's helpful, I can certainly post some photos. Thanks!

Michael G.

I dont think I would blindly just spray hot water up there.. you need to get on a ladder and spray directly into the ice making a channel, you should be about 1 -2 feet from the area your spraying... If you doing it like I described your will cut a channel in the ice within minutes so you shouldnt worry about more water leaking through the roof .. not anymore than already is. You dont have to get alll the ice off the roof, just make channels so the standing water goes off the house and doesn't pool behind the dam .. hence the name "dam"

On the first floor of my mutli level, I just ran the hose to the upstairs and stuck my hand out the window and sprayed the dam from inside the house. The second floor roof may need a big ladder.
 
I found ice melt at Lowes(checked the pellets too!) And bought a pole to put them up there. Racked about a foot of snow off about a foot up the roof. Place a sock every 5 or 6 feet. Holy cow the stuff is raining off the gutters right now. Got some strange looks from the locals staring out there windows. "What the heck is he doing out there" looks as I was putting them up.

Wonder how many will join suite after they see mine clear in a few days?
 
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