Help adjusting old wood stove

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darkbyrd

New Member
Jan 25, 2011
35
Pisgah Nat'l Forest, NC
I have this old wood, well actually coal, stove. It is a Coalchief, made by the Suburban Mfg Co, model CC378. I never found a manual for it, and even contacted the manufacturer. The sent me a manual for a similar stove, and I ran with it. I had some back-puffing issues in the beginning of the season, but have corrected the behaviors that caused it. The air intake is controlled by a thermostat (the vice grips in the first picture) connected to the flap you see in the second picture. As you can see in the second picture, there are adjustable bypass holes (open about halfway). In the third picture, you can see the hole that is at the top of the firebox, also about halfway. How do I adjust them? I mean, I can adjust them, but how do I figure out the best way to set it?

Second question- Because this is a coal-burning stove (only used for wood now) it has grates at the bottom. This means, as the coal bed burns down in the early morning hours, the thermostat opens the intake more and more, and burns my coals down faster and faster. The grates can be rotated to be flat (fourth and fifth pictures). Would I be better off burning in this position, or would I have problems with air-flow (which comes in from below the grates).

Finally, in the last picture you can see the firebox and the stovepipe going out (straight out the back and out through the exterior wall). I've seen postings about people modifying their stoves, and am looking for ideas how I can make this stove work better for me for the next few seasons until I get a house built (and am heating with something better than this old hand-me-down). I have a welder, and access to a friend who is a professional welder, so any ideas are welcome.

Thanks!
 

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You'd want to operate it with the grates flat. The grates are moveable so you can "shake" the ashes out of the coals during a burn (coal) adn to clean the ashes out into the ashpan below. Trust me, plenty of air will get there to burn wood, in fact you'll have to regulate it carefully so as not to burn too fast. As for the other controls I have no clue, but I had an old coal wood combo and that fire would rip with all the air coming from below like that.
 
I don't see a baffle in there anywhere. Having one above the wood and below the stove outlet would help keep the heat down around the wood and help burn more of the exhaust gasses (if you had enough preheated secondary air in there). Honestly, even if you don't want to buy a new stove at this point (the ones at home depot and lowes are pretty inexpensive this time of year), with all the tax incentives that caused the mad rush of stove buying the end of last year, there must have put a glut of used stoves on the market. You could probably pick up a used stove, made for wood only, on craigs list for not much more than it would cost you to modify your coal stove.
 
Thanks for the advice

I have thought about upgrading to something I could later use in the workshop/man cave, but right now, "tough economic times" and all that. The mods would only cost materials, and maybe not even all of that. Looking to maximize my wood and dollar. I burn almost twice what my dad does for a slightly larger but more insulated square footage, he has a new, small, napoleon insert.
 
Circulators are far better than some older stoves. Folks here will take exception to their use, but from a practical standpoint you should be fine for a few years unless/until a super deal comes along on a new(er) stove. Does your feed door have a spinner/slider air inlet? If not I suspect the above fire opening is for burning wood and/or bit coal. Bit needs above fire air to burn off volatiles at reload thereby lessening puffbacks. Anthracite wants all its air from underneath so the above air would be closed. Have you developed the art of using your MPD? You do have an MPD preferably in the horizontal run out the back don't you? Those shaker grates work great with wood as well and as far as disposing of ash, a cirulator is hard to beat! A 12X24X3" ash pan and you never have to touch a shovel except to clean out behind the pan once a month or so.
 
Stephen in SoKY said:
Does your feed door have a spinner/slider air inlet?
No

Have you developed the art of using your MPD? You do have an MPD preferably in the horizontal run out the back don't you?
Probably not... What is an MPD?

Those shaker grates work great with wood as well and as far as disposing of ash, a cirulator is hard to beat! A 12X24X3" ash pan and you never have to touch a shovel except to clean out behind the pan once a month or so.
You got that right. Dump it out once a day, maybe let it slide a day and a half.
 
Manual Pipe Damper. Without one you're losing your heat up the chimney.
 
$7 at Lowes. You'll be amazed how much less fuel you'll burn. I'm running a circulator right now myself, actually it's running itself, I just add fuel and take out ashes. The bimetal thermostat keeps things within 2 degrees assuming I supply the fuel.
 
Can I add a damper into this double wall pipe, or would I get a damper/short pipe combo and put it between the stove and the double-wall pipe going through the wall? I would hate to have to move the stove out from the wall any more, space is already at a premium!
 

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An old kitchen style coal stove that I grew up with in the weekend cabin, and used primarily for heat, had 2 air controls. 1 low for draft through the grates and 1 higher for draft over top of the grates. When we burnt wood we used the lower through the grates draft control and when we burnt coal (after a woodfire start up) we we used the over the fire draft. Coal needs the horizontal drafting to take away combustion gas, if we ran it the other way with air coming up through the coal, the fire would die. It was hard to cook anything with wood, with a coal fire, it was a whole different story.
It also had the pipe damper. I agree with adding 1 to your set up.

Keep the grates closed.


It will probably never burn wood optimally, but you can probably improve it with the damper and some experience. Can you get coal?
 
I guess I could get coal (other than the soft coal we dig up here on occasion) but I got too much free wood coming off my hill. 1/2 cord green black walnut, 1/2 cord dry black locust c/s/s today. Loved watching the gas man delivering gas to the neighbors while I split!
 
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