On chain sharpening, getting wood & HICKORY

Nice score. I've been practicing sharpening my chains as well - just did my first one a few weeks back - came out well - nothing to cut at the moment - snow city. Cheers!

Not sure about Pignut or Bitternut Hickory which grows in areas away from me,but the bark of the Shagbark & occasional Shellbark I cut is real hard on chains,contains silica & is very abrasive.

He's gettin ready to mark Poppa's wood so no one steals it ;-)

Some nice looking wood. Did you file the chains or buy a sharpener?


Zap

I was hesitant to try sharpening my own chains for quite a while. When I bought my MS390 and knew I was going to get serious about cutting wood I decided I was going to do it. I studied lots of different videos and read message boards. Bought a kit with round and flat files, guide and gauge. And just did it. And I discovered that there is nothing magic about it. I;ve got a brand new back-up chain in my milk crate/tool kit that I've never needed.

My buddy has a MS290 and takes his two chains to the shop every time they need sharpening. When I mention sharpening in the field he keeps asking "doesn't that take a long time?" I say "No, ten minutes tops, including a good brush/cleaning, and refilling the gas and oil." I do at every other fill up and it gives me a little break to catch my breath, have a drink of water, pull out my iPhone to check email, etc.

I'm going to buy him a sharpening kit and snow him how to use it. He's always doing nice things for me..... like bringing his saw and helping me cut wood just for the fun of it- loaning me his trailer- helping put up a fence.... you know.... THAT kind of buddy.

I use a Dremel grinder with a chain sharpening accessory. That works pretty well for me. It's quick and pretty easy to get the angle right.

offroadaudio said:

I just used the round file without a gauge for the teeth.
Then I used a flat file on the tops of the rakes.
It's not as sharp as the "pro" guy gets them, but I'm sure I'll get better.

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Over the years, I've tried a variety of ways of DIY chain-sharpening. The best I've found is Granberg's "File & Joint"- lets you set height and angles, so they stay consistent. I've found no need for "touch-up" with grinder, which does remove too much metal IMHO. You insert a flat file for precision setting of depth-gauges.

Free-hand filing is extremely inconsistent IMHO.

Before running through a tankful on ANY sort of wood, I'll be certain that all cutters are like razors. Costs so little (5 min.), can save so much.

I've always used a plain old round file with an angle gauge and find it easy to get a good edge. I really enjoy seeing large chips flying out of a log and touch it up every other tank full.

ddug said:

I've always used a plain old round file with an angle gauge and find it easy to get a good edge. I really enjoy seeing large chips flying out of a log and touch it up every other tank full.

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Same here. I was going to buy an electric bench sharpner but I am getting much better with the file and will continue to use that.

I have the Harbor Freight electric grinder, but rarely use it. I just use a round file and do it by hand with good results. I did finally see the little etched guide on the chains that show the proper angle. It is faster to just sharpen the chain while it is on the saw than to take it off. I bought a MS 660 from a guy in the tree business and he does it the same way, 3 pushes with a round file per tooth, thats it, 10 degrees up angle. I have never noticed Locust or Hickory giving the saw any problem or dulling the chains. What dulls the chains is hitting the dirt.

I decided to try the Chicago electric sharpener and am very satisfied with it. It doesn't take that long to sharpen a chain, but I can't do it in the field. A couple of extra chains solve that problem.

I leave the bar on the saw, clamp the bar in a vise, and use an Oregon bar-mount guide. It's similar to the "File & Joint." Works well.

I think red oak and locust is harder to cut than hickory. Will be milling some locust see how it stack up running sideways.

smokinjay said:

I think red oak and locust is harder to cut than hickory. Will be milling some locust see how it stack up running sideways.

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Good luck Jay,its a real pain but well worth the effort.I have some 4" x 14" blocks cut about 10 yrs ago,really tested my patience.Bad enough when semi-green,almost need carbide tipped chains or band saw blades when its bone dry. I swear by Lenox Diemaster 2 Bimetal bands though - .035 gauge 4 hook tooth. :coolsmile:

Thistle said:

smokinjay said:

I think red oak and locust is harder to cut than hickory. Will be milling some locust see how it stack up running sideways.

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Good luck Jay,its a real pain but well worth the effort.I have some 4" x 14" blocks cut about 10 yrs ago,really tested my patience.Bad enough when semi-green,almost need carbide tipped chains or band saw blades when its bone dry. I swear by Lenox Diemaster 2 Bimetal bands though - .035 gauge 4 hook tooth. :coolsmile:

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Going to hit it with an 880 3/8 0.63 with a girl on the saw!

That's a nice looking place, offroadaudio.

I've found a good vice is helpful to keep everything steady. Stihl, and others I'm sure, makes one for field use that just pounds into the top of a stump.

homebrewz said:

That's a nice looking place, offroadaudio.

I've found a good vice is helpful to keep everything steady.

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Good Vice? Such as smokin', drinkin', gamblin', wild and fast women??

homebrewz said:

That's a nice looking place, offroadaudio.

I've found a good vice is helpful to keep everything steady. Stihl, and others I'm sure, makes one for field use that just pounds into the top of a stump.

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I've found that most good vices that are any fun at all make things decidedly 'unsteady' :lol: