BioBricks/Liberty Bricks Not "Approved" for use in Napoleon Wood Stove Insert 1402

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

lamelod

New Member
Feb 5, 2011
3
Connecticut
To save money on heating oil costs ($3.49 gallon yesterday - yikes) I looked into getting an insert to make efficient use of my fireplace to help heat my approx 1,500 sq foot Cape. I wanted backup heat source if power went out, and ability to warm food if I lost power. Wood stove insert sounded good but as a single female with one daughter in college and my son going to college in the fall, I didn't want to worry about wood myself. . . until I heard about BioBricks/Liberty Bricks, etc. while I was on my travels to different dealers trying get educated and decide which insert to buy. The bricks seemed to solve my only remaining concern with having a wood stove insert and making it more convenient for me. Most of the dealers I spoke to, not only suggested the bricks to solve my concern, but actually sold the bricks too. I could pick it up, store it in the basement and be good to go. Aside from a problem trying to get the installation to pass inspection (that's another story), I sent an email through Napolean's website to ask the proper way to load the insert when using bricks since I wasn't getting the amount of time that I was hearing I should, specifically overnight. Imagine my surprise when the email came back saying that bricks weren't approved for use in their stoves! Are you kidding me? About 5 different stove places and $3,500 later, now I find out I'm not supposed to use the bricks?? The bricks that many of their authorized Napoleon dealers sold and discussed with me using to solve my final dilemma in owning a insert? What's the deal on this? I can tell from the posts that I've seen my brief time checking out this site that there are a lot of very knowledgeable people here. I'm still learning the lingo (e.g., secondary burn, etc.) and how to use the stove but now I'm afraid to use the bricks - what's the real deal here? Help?


Napoleon insert 1402
 
It basically comes down to testing. Most stoves on the market are designed to burn cord wood.
They are tested for burning cord wood & certified for burning cord wood & warrantied against
defects resulting from burning cord wood.
The testing facilities charge money for testing & certification, & stove manufacturers do
not want to spend additional money to test an already certified product.
Another issue is probably that there are no governing bodies to regulate what actually
goes into Bio-bricks or Eco-bricks or Mega-pellets or whatever they're called.
It's YOUR stove, installed in YOUR home with YOUR money.
That means it's YOUR call as to what YOU want burn, knowing the facts.
My $.02 & YMMV...
 
There's two parts to this question. One, will use of wood bricks void the warranty? Check your warranty paperwork that came with the stove. If it does not explicitly state that use of such wood bricks will void the warranty, then careful use of wodd bricks will not create a warranty issue. They have to put it in writing in the warranty, not just send you an email after you already bought the stove. It's different to say something like "not recommended" vs. "do not use or you will void the warranty". If it will void the warranty, I wouldn't use them, at least during the warranty period. You should talk with the stove shop where you bought it to see if they would be willing to swap it for a stove that allows you to burn wood bricks.

Secondly, the practical issue, will use of wood bricks damage your stove? The bricks tend to burn hotter than cordwood, so you have to keep a closer eye on the stove termperature after reloading to avoid overfiring (you do have a stove thermometer, right?). Once the stove is up to temperature and the air turned down, I find they burn pretty much like regular wood. The don't coal like wood and leave a finer ash. But you don't need kindling to light them. I tend to mix them with cord wood, although right now I'm burning 100% bricks since my woodpile is buried in snow.

However, all wood bricks are not created equal. I've burned Bio Bricks, Wood Brick Fuel and I'm currently more than halfway through a ton of Geo Bricks from Canada. The Bio Bricks burned great, they are 100% oak, made by a company right there in Connecticut. Of the ones I've burned, I believe these to be the best quality. The Geo Bricks are almost as good, they are 100% maple and burn very well. I bought a ton of them because they were on sale at the place where I buy my bricks and they were out of Bio Bricks at the time. I tried Wood Brick Fuel a couple of years ago and found they were not as tightly compressed as Bio Bricks and fell apart into a mass of glowing sawdust. I've seen Liberty Bricks at a local store, but never burned them. They are an odd color and look they may not be 100% real wood. I recall reading on here a year or two ago that people who burned Liberty Bricks found some non-wood products in their ash, like nails and coins.

Unlike Bob, I'm not a certified wood anything (other than a certifed wood nut :) ). I've been burning off and on in stoves and fireplaces since I was a kid, but what I know about EPA stoves I've learned from this site and by some trial and error with my PE Vista over the last 3 years. My own opinion, and it's only that, is that if it will not void your stove's warranty, quality wood bricks can be used safely in an EPA stove with careful burning practices. Now, excuse me, I've got to put some more bricks on the fire.
 
"If it does not explicitly state that use of such wood bricks will void the warranty, then careful use of wodd bricks will not create a warranty issue."

I disagree. I can't imagine a stove mfr listing every possible thing you could burn in a woodstove that would void the warranty. My warranty merely says that "overfiring" will void the warranty and gives a few examples of things that might cause overfiring. My guess is that most warranties are similar. If you avoid overfiring by careful use of wood bricks or anything else, then you won't have a warranty issue.
 
DanCorcoran said:
"If it does not explicitly state that use of such wood bricks will void the warranty, then careful use of wodd bricks will not create a warranty issue."

I disagree. I can't imagine a stove mfr listing every possible thing you could burn in a woodstove that would void the warranty. My warranty merely says that "overfiring" will void the warranty and gives a few examples of things that might cause overfiring. My guess is that most warranties are similar. If you avoid overfiring by careful use of wood bricks or anything else, then you won't have a warranty issue.

Good point. That's where I was going with my second point but wasn't very clear--overfiring with anything, even cordwood, will void the warranty of most stoves. I recall reading on here that Jotul's warranty expressly prohibits the use of Bio Bricks and the like. If the warranty doesn't, and you avoid overfiring, you should be fine. You just have to be a little more careful with wood bricks because they burn so well.
 
Note, this is not just BioBrick, but any compressed wood product. These bricks have the potential to release a lot of heat quickly if not used correctly. But used as directed, they provide a steady release of heat over many hours.
 
Thank you all for your feedback!

Under the safety warning, it says burn 'natural wood only' although it is not a defined term to describe what does or does not constitute 'natural wood' and Bio Bricks say 100% wood so I would think it would be tough to argue that Bio Bricks aren't natural wood. Liberty Bricks say their made from "recycled waste wood that would that might otherwise have gone to a landfill." So I think the BioBricks will be the next purchase.

It is not mentioned in the section that says 'never burn. . .' Anyway, most importantly there is nothing in the warrantly section either, just about the overfiring which would apply no matter what.

I have a Rutland Magnetic Thermometer that is placed on the center of the top plate as far back on the top as possible. You're right about the higher tempertures faster. It can increase quickly so I've learned that already, that it's important to really monitor that. I haven't been able to keep it burning for the length of time that the dealers said would work so it's pretty well out in the morning except or a few embers - that's what triggered the question to Napoleon in the first place. I have no experience with the BioBricks yet, only Liberty. I've gone through 3/4 of it already in less than a month - which it sounds like is too fast compared to what I've heard.

Thank you again, I appreciate all your help and will have more questions as I continue to learn.

-Laurel
 
If they are burning up quickly there may be too much air between the bricks. Instructions are posted here: http://biopellet.net/instructions.html . Follow the directions for "Burning BioBricks in Catalytic stove or stove with combustion air tubes in firebox."
 
Great, thanks!

The combustion air tubes are what my instructions say are "combustion air enters through two holes in the bottom covered by a single draft control?" Just checking. . .

Wow, this is very helpful! I was afraid to put too many bricks but there are a lot of bricks in there!
 
The Napoleon 1402 has a secondary combustion manifold at the top of the firebox.
 

Attachments

  • napoleon secondary.jpg
    napoleon secondary.jpg
    16.3 KB · Views: 924
[quote author="DAKSY" date="1296936444"]It basically comes down to testing. Most stoves on the market are designed to burn cord wood.
They are tested for burning cord wood & certified for burning cord wood & warrantied against
defects resulting from burning cord wood.
The testing facilities charge money for testing & certification, & stove manufacturers do
not want to spend additional money to test an already certified product.
Another issue is probably that there are no governing bodies to regulate what actually
goes into Bio-bricks or Eco-bricks or Mega-pellets or whatever they're called.
It's YOUR stove, installed in YOUR home with YOUR money.
That means it's YOUR call as to what YOU want burn, knowing the facts.
My $.02 & YMMV...[/quote
- Put yourself in the shoes of the MFGR - should the mfgr spend money testing the wood stove on a "new" product that may not be around in a few years or should they simply state in the Manual to use Natural wood which all dense wood is Natural. As long as its made from wood, last time I checked all wood comes from a tree, must be natural. If the packaging sez wood no binders no glues - must be wood.

You can buy FLAX dense logs from Flax seeds and in Michigan you can find paper bricks but the majority of bio bricks aka firewoodbricks or dense wood is 100% wood. They can burn hotter for longer periods of time so maybe you could start out with less of them in your wood burning stove or maybe you should wait until your MFGR spends the money to test their stoves.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.