Jotul F-100

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

mariacw

New Member
Apr 17, 2007
43
Maryland, Central MD
A Jotul F-100 was purchased last year. I'm dealing with Jotul to get answers to these questions, but I wanted your thoughts as well.


1) There is an empty camber in the bottom of the Jotul F 100. I'm guessing this has something to do with the ash drawer in the European model. Assuming there is zero concern with combustibility of the floor structure under the stove - may I remove the plate located at the base of the door and burn wood in the lower camber to get more wood volume in the stove and take out the ash lip obstruction the bottom of the door glass?



2) I have noticed the hiss of air into the stove after shutting down the air inlet. This appears to be coming from the left rear. Is there a place prone to leaks that I should look for and that I may seal after my spring cleaning? What would be a recommended sealer?
 
Oh yeah just in case...I won't be putting Jotul's answers on here, cause I just don't think that's rite.

I just picture this customer trying to heat 2000 sqare feet w/ this stove. Can I just tell him he needs to run the stove how the manufacturer has built it and as instructed it to be used in the U.S. otherwise if there are any negative results it's on him? I would also like him to get with his insurance company about this as well.
 
1. no

2. probably a hiss from 2ndr air running up to the 2ndry burner?
 
I think if you take a close look at the little stove you will find it interesting. And that you will not even think about taking the bottom out of that firebox. The F100 is a switch hitter. Designed to burn wood or to be a multi-fuel stove. With the wood version that chamber down there pre-heats the secondary air that is then routed up the back to the holes at the top back of the firebox. Dressed for multi-fuel work it has a grate instead of that plate and the lower air is metered by a movable plate over a hole in the very bottom of that lower chamber.

If the guy needs a bigger stove then he needs to buy a bigger stove and sell the little cast iron shoebox.
 
How do you guys find the heat output from the F100?

Is it a little work horse, or does the 602 kick its butt?

Just curious.
 
Install fire 1 said:
How do you guys find the heat output from the F100?

Is it a little work horse, or does the 602 kick its butt?

Just curious.

The F100 heats my office fine. Ya just have to feed it often. The only 602 I have seen is in a picture. Picture didn't produce much heat.
 
BrotherBart said:
Install fire 1 said:
How do you guys find the heat output from the F100?

Is it a little work horse, or does the 602 kick its butt?

Just curious.

The F100 heats my office fine. Ya just have to feed it often. The only 602 I have seen is in a picture. Picture didn't produce much heat.


LOL! I guess it wouldn't. Looking for a smaller woodstove in the future and was wondering about in field service. I like the regency cs1200, but find the jotul stoves to be very very attractive and well put together. My customers like their jotuls as well as regencys, but find the deatil lacking in the regency even though they are built like tanks.
 
mo burns said:
A Jotul F-100 was purchased last year. I'm dealing with Jotul to get answers to these questions, but I wanted your thoughts as well.



2) I have noticed the hiss of air into the stove after shutting down the air inlet. This appears to be coming from the left rear. Is there a place prone to leaks that I should look for and that I may seal after my spring cleaning? What would be a recommended sealer?

I have the hiss of air going through the primary air inlet, until it closes down to about halfway. I did have an air leak in the back left corner also this season. The refractory cement used to seal the corners and joints can get brittle and loosen. I removed the top baffle and inner side plates to access the corners. I used a screwdriver to remove all the loose cement and vacuumed out the bits. A light wire brushing with an additional vac out, then cemented. Air leak gone. I noticed the leak mostly when closing down the primary air and letting the secondaries take over. It was a random orange flame in the back left bottom.

As BB mentioned above, the bottom grate does pull out for an ash pan and multifuel grate sold in the UK. There is also another air inlet on the bottom of the stove that would be connected to a lever in the same kit to let more air into the grates if using coal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.