englander 25-pdv error code

check the hopper, on my unit, i had to apply aluminum tape to make the pellets slide down into the auger.

All of these englander problems are scaring me a little to even hook mine up...

Possible E2 error cause #3 may apply

3. If the unit fires but does not continue to run with ample heat to be able to make its proof of fire temp.:

The likely issue is a disconnected heat sensor, or the “air on temp†setting being too high. To check the air on temp, push that button and look in the blower speed readout for the setting. It must be set on 1; if set higher, reset to 1 and re-attempt to start the unit. If the stove still doesn’t make it out of startup (particularly if the room fan does not come on), check the heat sensor for possible bad connection. If connected correctly, test the sensor in diagnostic; if the sensor reads a "9" in the heat range and it is connected properly, it’s bad and should be replaced.

roundeye said:

Where is the heat sensor connected and if it is how do I go in diagnostic mode

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Have you got a manual for your stove? There is a layout of the control panel (back side) in it that shows where the sensor connects.

You can look up the diagnostic information at England Stove Works website.

roundeye said:

I pulled off the back cover and the wire is hooked up to the control panel but not by the back of the fire box any idea what it hooks to? The wire has a copper lug on the end

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There should also be an exploded diagram of the stove that just might indicate where that goes. I haven't a clue. You can always call England in the morning and ask or perhaps Mike Holton will drop in and see this thread and answer the question for you.

roundeye said:

I pulled off the back cover and the wire is hooked up to the control panel but not by the back of the fire box any idea what it hooks to? The wire has a copper lug on the end

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The wire coming off the control board that has a white braided "sleeve" over the entire length and the wire copper "lug" is the heat sensor. It should be attached to the firebox wall. I can't tell you exactly where the hole or screw is for it, but looking at the rear of the stove, I'm guessing it goes on the left side of the firewall.

If this isn't attached in the correct place, the control board never sees any heat, and will shut the stove down.

Self tapping screw would work best, if you have one.

Worse case scenario, use some furnace foil tape, and tape it tightly against the firewall. As long as it's making decent contact, it should work until you get the proper screw.

roundeye said:

That's good cuz the screw snapped off half way in, just my luck. One more thing I was going to tile the wall surrounding the stove, would diamond plate work?

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Go to the hardware store, and get a self-tapping screw.....drill a hole a little smaller than the thread size right next to the original one, and thread it in.

As for the diamond plate, I guess it would be OK, if you like that look. :gulp:

I'd try things without the fans first. What will work depends upon the actual air flow through the area you want to heat. The easiest way to move air around is to move the cold air towards the stove down low. This will start and maintain a convection pump.

I'm heating rooms on two floors using just the convection blower on the stove.

roundeye said:

....I have a ceiling fan in all three rooms, they should all blow down to circulate the heat or not

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Typically with a stove, you switch the fan to blow upward in the winter.....it pushes warm air up, out toward the walls, and back down to the floor. Makes the room temp more even.

roundeye said:

Stove works great had it on 2 last night, it was 33 degrees outside, I have no insulation in my outside walls and im staying nice and warm at 74 in the house. There is one thing though, it says to add pellets to shut the stove off. I was wondering if I could just add pellets while its running, there is no way to tell how many pellets are in the hopper and there's a switch under the hopper door. Guessing a safety switch. Can I disable the switch or is adding pellets with the stove on not a good idea

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Don't worry about it....just open the hopper & dump the pellets in. The safety switch will shut off the stove eventually if left open, but I think that takes a few minutes.

roundeye said:

Could one of the factory settings be off like the low burn feed or am I having bridging issues?

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And your bottom button settings are.......???

Have you emptied the hopper to check for bridging?

The bottom auger runs continuously, correct?

Long pellets have been known to bridge were the top auger drops them to the bottom auger.

roundeye said:

Low fuel feed is 2 low burn air is 4 air on temp is 1. Bottom auger runs continuously and I emptied the hopper and it didn't see any bridging but did notice alot of long pellets and saw dust.

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First of all, the proper factory settings for that stove are 6-4-1....that will increase your pellet feed. Secondly, if you have a lot of long pellets, they will either cause bridging inside the hopper or the auger and not allow enough pellets into it to feed the fire.

What brand of pellets are you using? You might want to get a different brand to try, or empty the hopper, take a decent amount of those pellets (enough to last 1-2 hours), and sift through them....... break any long ones up, put them back in the stove and see what happens.