modify cheap englander pellet stove

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Feb 15, 2011
1
Maine
This took me a long time to figure out. I have a multi fuel Engalnder 10-CDV, corn and pellets
burn is terrible - when you take the mixer out it clogs up after 6-12 hours even on the lowest setting'
Does this evenwhen brand new, not a single thing in the stove for ash and with a fan installed in the air intake hose to help push air into the unit

Issue is this: the exhaust fan does not produce enough vacuum in the stove to suck the air in.
I installed a fan wheel - you have exactly 2 inches of dept where the fan is, can't remember the width, I think it was 4 inches. My wheel was 1 3/4 deep. You can unscrew the motor from the exahaust area. You take off the steel flashing (5-6 nuts) and the motor. The motor should easily come off leaving the soft gasket. The kasget is cloth and will not tear - don;t worry, you don;t need a new one.
Take off the cheap 1/2 deep fan and install the blower wheel. Make sure you buy one that is steel. Other materials will disintegrate as this is the one spot that has super hot gases.

When you do this, the stove will have 4-5 times more suck power. Install a variable speed control from Home Depot, this will allow tweaking the suck in the pot area. Example if you want to run it all night on setting 2, I turn down the suck a little. Or if I leave it on 6 all night (with the mixer off) I leave the suck power on max. It burns days on end with no cleaning and makes fine ash like talcum powder.
 
modified_stove said:
This took me a long time to figure out. I have a multi fuel Engalnder 10-CDV, corn and pellets
burn is terrible - when you take the mixer out it clogs up after 6-12 hours even on the lowest setting'
Does this evenwhen brand new, not a single thing in the stove for ash and with a fan installed in the air intake hose to help push air into the unit

Issue is this: the exhaust fan does not produce enough vacuum in the stove to suck the air in.
I installed a fan wheel - you have exactly 2 inches of dept where the fan is, can't remember the width, I think it was 4 inches. My wheel was 1 3/4 deep. You can unscrew the motor from the exahaust area. You take off the steel flashing (5-6 nuts) and the motor. The motor should easily come off leaving the soft gasket. The kasget is cloth and will not tear - don;t worry, you don;t need a new one.
Take off the cheap 1/2 deep fan and install the blower wheel. Make sure you buy one that is steel. Other materials will disintegrate as this is the one spot that has super hot gases.

When you do this, the stove will have 4-5 times more suck power. Install a variable speed control from Home Depot, this will allow tweaking the suck in the pot area. Example if you want to run it all night on setting 2, I turn down the suck a little. Or if I leave it on 6 all night (with the mixer off) I leave the suck power on max. It burns days on end with no cleaning and makes fine ash like talcum powder.

Sometimes you gotta just do what you gotta do but you won`t find many who will agree with what you did .
2 big reasons:
1...It`s gonna be hard to convince most folks that your amateur redesigned combustion system is better than what the stove engineers initially designed. (even though yours might actually seem to work better)
2....It hasn`t passed the required testing lab procedure approval standards and if something disastrous should happen from use of the stove your insurance company might not pay.
 
Englander actually has what they call a high altitude blower available that is exactly what the original poster did to his.

Same size ( externally-physically) blower with a larger internal wheel for more air.

Had to go with one several years ago on my older style insert.

Made all the difference in the burn quality.
 
modified_stove said:
This took me a long time to figure out. I have a multi fuel Engalnder 10-CDV, corn and pellets
burn is terrible - when you take the mixer out it clogs up after 6-12 hours even on the lowest setting'
Does this evenwhen brand new, not a single thing in the stove for ash and with a fan installed in the air intake hose to help push air into the unit

Issue is this: the exhaust fan does not produce enough vacuum in the stove to suck the air in.
I installed a fan wheel - you have exactly 2 inches of dept where the fan is, can't remember the width, I think it was 4 inches. My wheel was 1 3/4 deep. You can unscrew the motor from the exahaust area. You take off the steel flashing (5-6 nuts) and the motor. The motor should easily come off leaving the soft gasket. The kasget is cloth and will not tear - don;t worry, you don;t need a new one.
Take off the cheap 1/2 deep fan and install the blower wheel. Make sure you buy one that is steel. Other materials will disintegrate as this is the one spot that has super hot gases.

When you do this, the stove will have 4-5 times more suck power. Install a variable speed control from Home Depot, this will allow tweaking the suck in the pot area. Example if you want to run it all night on setting 2, I turn down the suck a little. Or if I leave it on 6 all night (with the mixer off) I leave the suck power on max. It burns days on end with no cleaning and makes fine ash like talcum powder.

That's amazing - Good Work!! Where did you get the big fan blades for your blower and can u post pics please?
 
Hope the OP's stove is already out of warranty.......if wasn't already, it is now.
 
Sounds like it is reversible.
 
I wouldn't always put faith in the original stove engineer...that is, unless the stove has a clear EPA label and is actually tested and proven for efficiency.

It sure sounds like a more complete burn, but the unseen part of the equation is the true efficiency. Excess air in combustion is often the #1 culprit for reducing the efficiency...even more than an incomplete burn. So you might be burning the pellets now at 99% efficient, but sucking so much more heated air out of the house and throwing so much more heated air from the fire out the vent...that they more than cancel each other out.

It could be your lack of vertical rise on the venting which is making the poor performance in the first place...
But, as another has said, sometimes you have to make the shoe fit before you can wear it...so many variables.
 
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