Low Return Water Temperature no Boiler bypass and corrosion

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dzook

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I am familiar with a gentleman that bought an EKO boiler from what he described as a "fly by night" dealer. 6 years ago. He wasn't offered much help in the system just the boiler sale. It was hooked up as a closed system-good, no storage tank-not so good, and no mixing valve or loading unit--bad, for return water protection. The boiler was generally operated at 150 deg outgoing "because that is all it took to heat the house" were the owners comments. The return water would have been 20-30deg lower.

The system developed a leak in the top of the fire box. The owner being a handy man went to fix the hole only to discover the metal was so thin the welder just burned holes through. A pocket knife could be used to penetrate the upper fire box area where the metal had once been 1/4" thick.

There could be other issues with the water in the system but the water supply in other areas has not developed problems so it seems to point to fire box corrosion due to condensation due to no return water temperature protection and operating the boiler at too low temps.

The owner has no computer so I thought I might put it out here on the forum for any other opinions or comments. This is the first eko I have heard about with a problem of this severity.
 
Dean Zook said:
The owner has no computer so I thought I might put it out here on the forum for any other opinions or comments. This is the first eko I have heard about with a problem of this severity.

It might well have turned out better if the dealer had done more hand-holding, but I know in my case the written warranty made it very clear that there would be no manufacturer's liability if boiler return temperature was not maintained above 150 degF.

It seems likely that the EKO warranty and/or operator's manual would have offered some pretty strong hints on the subject.

--ewd
 
ewdudley said:
Dean Zook said:
The owner has no computer so I thought I might put it out here on the forum for any other opinions or comments. This is the first eko I have heard about with a problem of this severity.

It might well have turned out better if the dealer had done more hand-holding, but I know in my case the written warranty made it very clear that there would be no manufacturer's liability if boiler return temperature was not maintained above 150 degF.

It seems likely that the EKO warranty and/or operator's manual would have offered some pretty strong hints on the subject.

--ewd

+1

nothing particular to do with the brand of boiler. Steel is steel and any wood boiler operated under the scenario you describe is going to have a short life.
 
Atmos says that their boilers can rot through in less than 2 years without return protection, Randy
 
That's correct it can happen to any brand. It shoulnt be taken as negative toward any particular brand rather It is just for a real life reminder/warning to anyone installing a system to get proper life from the equipment it pays to follow the directions. You can get by for a while but in the end it will bite you. In this case it took 6 years to go from 1/4 to paper thin.
 
Any idea which way the eko rusted thru? I mean did it go from the water side to the fire box side or firebox side to the water side?
The reason I ask is because I've welded patches in an OWB (not mine).When I was first asked to do it I just assumed the rust came through from the water side(open system) but when I climbed it to clean the areas to weld you could clearly see that the corrosion all started on the firebox side.I suppose caused by low return water temp. condensation.
 
The acid eats the plates from the fire side in. See YouTube video, the phenomenon of corrosion in gasification boilers, Randy
 
I have wondered about this in my own boiler, the difference is that I am all refractory until the second pass. And there are so many fire tubes [maybe 800 ft total] that the velocity is very very low. on inspection there only appears to be fly ash in the lower tubes and on the last last pass not even much of that. I was thinking may be there is a damping period in the lower tubes that I am not seeing. I don't run any return water protection because if I did I would lose 30F of usable BTU's in 1200 gals of water. Looks like it's about 123F return right now.
 
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