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lazer415

New Member
Feb 20, 2011
7
Upstae NY
I previously posted a question regarding my Energy King 385 EK forced air wood furnace that I could not get my house to stay warm overnight or increase room temp. My chimney is about 35 ft and I did not have a damper. So the feedback I received was add a damper because most of the heat is getting sucked out the chimney. So I added a damper. This did help and was no doubt assisted in my burn time.

But I still am having an issue with keeping my house to temp and it takes forever to get my house to increase temperature.

Yesterday around 4:00 PM I added the damper and my wall thermostat was set at 80 degrees. The room temp of my house was at 68. I ran my stove until 9 PM and I saw my room temp only increase to to 70 degrees. During this time my fan was running at a constant basis and blowing heat. When I went to bed I decreased my wall thermostat to 70 degrees. As I write this at 2 AM the inside of my house is at 60 degrees.

It seems as though unless I am burning my stove hot and my fan is running almost contunusly I am not able to do much other than just maintain room temp.

My home is just under 2,000 sq ft and brand new. I have been running this stove for just over a month now. Unless the weather outside is above 20 degrees I am waking up to a 60 degree house every morning.

Ther thermostat on my furnance is set at 100-150. I previously had it at 90-140 and was having the same issues.

Any suggestions would be more than greatly appreciated!
 
It sounds asthough the stove is just too small or you have some serious heat loss almost like "is there an attic window open?". You should have one of those IR camera photos of the place as soon as possible and one of those airflow tests done to check the air seal integrity of the structure. We had a wood furnace that was directly connected to the oil furncace plenum and except in extreme cold were comfortably at 70* and that is in an OLD farmhouse of 1700 sq ft. However we went a two furnace route because the first wood furnace we bought was supposedly rated large enough but there was a terrible misprint on output. We got out money back and bought a bigger model. The fuel oil furnace for our home is rated at 112000 btu. The second wood furnace we bought was rated at 105000. In extreme cold weather the oil furnace would kick in so atleast 90% of the winer was just wood heat. What is the size of your current wood furnace?
 
I need to check the size of my oil furnace. When I first purchased the wood furnace we had a few nights where it was -22 and when I woke up the house was 64-66 degrees.

Since that time I have had the cold air return for my wood furnace connected to the cold air return for my oil furnace. In addition when I was first running the stove I had the barametric damper closed off and yesterday added the damper to my stove pipe. I thought the hot air might have been flowing right out my chimney---looks like I was wrong. I think playing with the dampers hurt my draft. When I checked the stove pipe temp this morning I was at around 250-300 without the dampers I am between 350 and 400. I also adjusted my cold air return so it is now drawing from my basement and from the cold air return of my oil furnace.

I guess tonight I will see if these changes are for the positive. It really sucks waking up to 58 degrees!
 
I haven't looked at what temp I have my blower fan set on in awhile but I believe mine is set to come on at 170 and off at 150. I'll look again when I get home. What's your manual say?

also

Are you getting a good hot burn? What kind and how seasoned is your wood?
 
I think in your last post, I questioned your heat loss. It has to be pretty good, or theirs no output with the furnace. Are you seeing secondary combustion when looking into he door? Being it's a new home it's hard to wrap around the drop of heat at night. Our home is 150+ years old and larger but well insulated. We lost only a few degrees from the thermostat after 8 hours waking to -5 below. Our furnace although different is rated at or less than he 385ek. I know the furnace is new, but I would peek ingot the heat exchangers and make sure they are clean. Do you know your output temps at the registers? I forgot to add, leaving the damper open or activated via thermostat will make a hotter fire but send more heat up the flue. Once it's burning hot have you tried closing the damper via thermostat and see what happens?
 
Where does the air supply for the furnace come from? Do you have an outside air intake or are you sucking the hot air out of the house?
 
What is your wall construction and insulation? R19 in 2x6 walls and R38 in the roof lines? Fiberglass? Blowin? Sure sounds like something is a bit fishy.
 
Thank you for all the replies.

Here are the changes I made. I now have my cold air return pulling from both my furnace cold air return and the basement. In addition, I opened the damper in the pipe and closed off the barametric damper. I think the main issue was I was not getting enough draft. Surprising because my chimney is so high (35-40ft) but there is a Y where I connect into the chimney pipe because my furnace is set up to run off the same chimney.

I was out of town last night but my wife woke up this morning to 68 degrees after 8 hrs and the outside temp was around 5 degrees. I'll keep you posted on how things work out. Hopefully these adjustments were the issue.

I would like to get a gauge to see what the actuall fraft from my chimney pipe is and a determine what my heat output is for the registers. This will hopefully let me fine tune the settings.
 
If your running both units into one chimney that's your problem. Its against code and is unsafe. It can cause many problems. Also if pulling air from the basement, you should also have heat ducts down there to balance the area. Your woodfurnace needs a set amount of air for proper operation, which adding returns in the basement and having a new home thats tighter can cause negative pressures.
 
I only run one unit at a time. I have dampers to close off each unit when they are not running. The oil furnace only gets used earyly fall and early spring when I don't fire the wood furnace at all.
 
Just because it works doesn't mean it's right. Unless those dampers are 100% tight it will affect the draft on the woodfurnace. I would look into getting a separate chimney.
 
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