The hardest lesson to learn

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Rory

Member
Jan 10, 2009
203
Central Me
I'm on my third season with the Tarm Solo 30, and it's done a fantastic job of heating my house and dhw while reducing my oil use to almost zero. During the first winter it was immediately clear that drier wood was called for, and that was remedied by preparing 2 years worth the following summer. It took a little longer to accept that it just doesn't pay to place a long piece in the firebox kitty corner, as you're just asking for bridging and a compromised fire if not a failure to ignite. I now set aside any long ones I encounter and snip them before use.

The hardest thing to accept, however, is the limitation on the cross sectional area of the firewood. I do my initial splitting with a hydraulic splitter that's kind of slow, so I leave a lot of pieces on the large side. I usually bring my wood in on the weekends and do a final split of the larger pieces by hand. Sometimes I'm rushed though, especially if I bring in a couple loads during the week, and I might skip the final split, thinking those 6 or 8 inch wedges will be fine. In truth, they ARE fine if used sparingly, but if I use them for most of the load without surrounding them with pieces not much larger than a deck of cards, I'm in for a difficult burn and some fiddling and poking before I get good gasification, even with excellent, really dry wood.

The lessons are -

1) the wood must be dry
2) it must be shorter than the firebox depth
3) the cross sectional area must be small, not much larger than a playing card

Follow those rules and it's a piece of cake.
 
I agree with you about the wood.
My wood is between 12-16% moisture and it burns great.
I already had wood split and dry before getting my unit so it was cut to 16" to fit into a wood stove.
Since my firebox is 32" deep, I have a double row of wood which helps in reducing the chance of bridging.
My unit has two nozzles, so for most of the time the wood is essentially dropping over either nozzle as it burns.
My wood also has a face size of approximately a deck of playing cards, with an occasional larger or smaller sized one.
I think that the smaller size offers more surface area, and combined with easier air flow, the wood burns hotter and no
tending to the boiler during a burn is needed.

I'll add that when I reload my boiler I rake the coals/charcoal into the nozzles and hit them with a hand held map torch
from the firebox before loading wood. I used to do it as the manufacture stated; rake coals over nozzle, load wood, light paper or
torch from bottom of box. Not only is it more awkward to get into the lower box and light two nozzles from below, but I find that
from the top firebox, the wood starts up much faster. I have an automatic draft inducer when loading wood, and I think after
hitting the coals/charcoal with the torch, the extra time while loading wood really stokes the coals.
 
You nailed it Rory. Dryer wood is obvious, but it's tempting to split bigger. I discovered the same thing about smaller splits. Either I spend a few extra minutes to make smaller splits or I spend more time stirring and worrying about bridging or blowholes. I did find our boiler less sensitive to longer splits if they were smaller in cross section. The smaller splits just keep a more uniform coal bed. Just finished a another wood storage shed so I get get at least 2 years ahead since the difference between 6 month seasoned and over a year is significant. It's 60F here today so we're on the backside of burning this season. Is there something wrong with me mentally if I say I enjoyed this heating season using my boiler. This controlling your own heating destiny is addictive.
 
YEp, I have learned the same lessons. I've found using larger splits on the top and near the wall of the firebox with small splits/branches in the middle seems to work well. I save up the odd shaped and large pieces for spring & fall so I can through a large/odd shaped chunk or 2 on the top of the load. It takes a bit of trial and error to get the right combination. After 2 1/2 years, I've reached the point where I can look at what I'm putting in and stop myself when I see a potential problem.
 
I do not have any problem with larger splits. My wood is always burned up at the end of the cycle.I may get bridging but i am not aware of it ? I do some time have hotter water in the am after the night time burn,could be i get a better fire from time to time that i am not aware of?
 
I've recently learned that if I clean out the ashes in the top chamber on my biomass It takes longer to get good gasifacation going do to the coals filling up the corners and edges before falling over the nozzel.
 
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