Well we started burning our Kozy Heat Z42 yesterday afternoon for the 1st time. So far I'm not impressed. We are burning a lot of wood w/ little heat output, I think. The room it's in has been around 64 degrees and upstairs is about 68. I've filled kinda of 2/3 full of wood and haven't tried stuffing it full yet. The wood lasts for about 2-3 hours and is then just coals, but enough to get some dry popple to fire up. I have read a lot on hear so I am not panicking or anything. My initial thoughts are: 1- maybe the blower will be necessary. 2- The wood has been outside and uncovered so it may be too wet. I am suspect of this because it's been sitting for 1.5-2 years and is catching and burning nicely, just not putting out what I would call a lot of heat. 3- It's also 13 degrees here which is a factor. 4- We are just now trying to leave the damper less than 1/2 closed, but I can't imagine how short our burn times will be w/ that setting.
New Fireplace and not impressed
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Todd
Minister of Fire
I can't believe the blower is an option. Since it is flush mounted the only way to get real heat out of it is to force it out, this thing is designed for a blower. Without a blower you only get radiant heat from the glass, not alot of surface there, get the blower, it's a must.
Jimbob
Minister of Fire
......And depending on what the dealer wants to ding you for the blowers, you might want to consider these ones.
They'll likely move more air.
http://www.solerpalaucanada.com/td_mixvent.html
They'll likely move more air.
http://www.solerpalaucanada.com/td_mixvent.html
WarmGuy
Minister of Fire
Our Regency Warmhearth is similar to yours, and without the blower, it doesn't do much heating. With the blower it does great.
Our blower has gotten noisy. That option looks very good, JimBob. Have you used one of those? Are they OK for installing in the area under the firebox?
Our blower has gotten noisy. That option looks very good, JimBob. Have you used one of those? Are they OK for installing in the area under the firebox?
henkmeuzelaar
New Member
Jimbob said:
Over the years I have spent a small fortune on in-line duct blowers, mostly for venting a marine engine. Most every $ 20-50 blower I bought only survived for 100-200 hours of operation. When checking the fine print in the operating instructions I soon discovered that none of these are rated for 24/7 operation, particularly in hot environments. Instead, these ductal blowers are apparently meant to be controlled by thermostats, time-clocks, etc., which gives them a chance to cool off now and then, I guess.
It takes the heavy industrial grade types (at 5-10 times the price) to be rated for 24/7 operation in hot environments. Knowing that, I was not to badly surprised when I had to pay $ 300 for our Heritage fireplace blower. Unfortunately, I can only hope that these are not simply the $ 30 blowers painted black by the dealer..... Since we don't run the fireplace 24/7 I may never find out, of course
Henk
Now we're talking. This thing is doing well. It's about 75 degrees throughout the house and has been for hours. I think I'm going to put the duct work in to pull warm air into the mother-in-law apartment in our day-light basement. Running this thinig is a lot different than I thought though. The air has been left pretty much open all day. When I was a kid we used to open the damper to get the fire going and then shut it down a lot to keep the wood from burning too quickly. I tried leaving it open cause I read this on a website.
Arc_Dad said:
Lemme guess, NOT here ;-)
Stick around a little, you'll learn a bunch! The "days of old" do not apply to the current stoves. It's a hole new world out there now, as I am learning.
I am going from a '60's/'70's steel; if it's not a glowin', it's not a throwin' smoker, to a 21st century if it's a glowin' your a cr@pin' stove. (O.T. - Sorry Bro. Bart; but I went with it and should be here this week
) I DO NOT have any insert experience, but I would imagine that a blower would make a world of difference.
As far a duct work - they MAY be complications with your A.H.J. Check your local codes and fire department.
Jimbob
Minister of Fire
Over the years I have spent a small fortune on in-line duct blowers, mostly for venting a marine engine. Most every $ 20-50 blower I bought only survived for 100-200 hours of operation. When checking the fine print in the operating instructions I soon discovered that none of these are rated for 24/7 operation, particularly in hot environments. Instead, these ductal blowers are apparently meant to be controlled by thermostats, time-clocks, etc., which gives them a chance to cool off now and then, I guess.
It takes the heavy industrial grade types (at 5-10 times the price) to be rated for 24/7 operation in hot environments. Knowing that, I was not to badly surprised when I had to pay $ 300 for our Heritage fireplace blower. Unfortunately, I can only hope that these are not simply the $ 30 blowers painted black by the dealer..... Since we don't run the fireplace 24/7 I may never find out, of course
Henk
Actually, the ones I linked above ARE the industrial type. I've used one like it 24/7 for the past 8 years, and it still works just like the day I bought it. It wasn't cheap, I paid almost $200. I'm pretty sure it would easily outlast the blowers that come with most stoves.
This is the one I use.
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If you are running that insert wide open w/ no blower you have a majority of your steel locked inside of a place that cannot dissipate heat. That means you could warp / ruin your new insert literally in your first days of operation.
Order the blower, not only do I hate to see you flog that thing in an attempt to make it provide heat in a manner that it possibly can't, but you risking your investment as well as wasting wood.
It took me a good while to relearn how to use a wood stove after switching from the pre-epa stoves of my past to this new beast. But now that I understand how it works and how to operate it, I would never go back and I shake my head in disbelief at what I used to do.
pen
Order the blower, not only do I hate to see you flog that thing in an attempt to make it provide heat in a manner that it possibly can't, but you risking your investment as well as wasting wood.
It took me a good while to relearn how to use a wood stove after switching from the pre-epa stoves of my past to this new beast. But now that I understand how it works and how to operate it, I would never go back and I shake my head in disbelief at what I used to do.
pen
Well, things have certainly changed. I was not going to install the outside air intake, or do any ductwork and install the blower/fan. I think now I am going to install all 3. I have not framed it in yet so now is the time as it would be possible later, but more difficult. Yesterday afternoon I had a good bed of coals going and a real nice fire. I was able to turn the air down a lot and maintain what I would call a good burn. Now it's time to see what Kozy Heat's pricing is for their blower and 6" duct work and fan. Thanks again everyone for your help.
Not sure on the blower, but I believe the duct kit has an MSRP of $500. Much cheaper to buy the parts from the hardware store and make it up yourself like i did.Arc_Dad said:
We have the same unit and are very happy with it
I agree that a blower is desirable and I wouldn't have considered ordering it without one. I disagree that heat radiating through the glass is the only source of heat. Once you get it going good, a natural convection current will set up, wrapping air around the firebox. We lost power for 9 hours when it was 15 degrees outside and gale winds and still kept the main floor over 70.
I try to pack it full and minimize air spaces between the splits, leaving enough space on top, next to the secondary tubes, to put some kindling and newspaper. With that setup, it takes 45-60 minutes for the blower to kick on, but by then the temperature in the next room, where the thermostat is, is up just enough to keep the furnace off. And of course the primary air is shut down when the fire is burning well (15 min. or so).
I agree that a blower is desirable and I wouldn't have considered ordering it without one. I disagree that heat radiating through the glass is the only source of heat. Once you get it going good, a natural convection current will set up, wrapping air around the firebox. We lost power for 9 hours when it was 15 degrees outside and gale winds and still kept the main floor over 70.
I try to pack it full and minimize air spaces between the splits, leaving enough space on top, next to the secondary tubes, to put some kindling and newspaper. With that setup, it takes 45-60 minutes for the blower to kick on, but by then the temperature in the next room, where the thermostat is, is up just enough to keep the furnace off. And of course the primary air is shut down when the fire is burning well (15 min. or so).
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