Reducing Clearances to Combusitbles - possible ?

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mikeyd

mikeyd

Member
Jun 15, 2009
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I'm attempting to tear out a Superior prefab and replace with a Napoleon NZ26-WI. After removing the stone facing (and saving most of it) I fear I have now discovered my cavity is not going to support the NZ26 framing requirements for clearances of 6" to the sides.

Depth is also a little short but I'm not overly concerned as it's only 1 inch or so. Any ideas how I can accomplish this ?

The challenge is I have the stove purchased already and if I knew ahead of time I would have gone with a unit with true zero clearances to combustibles like a Kozy or BIS. I was told from an installer that it wouldn't be an issue before I went ahead with purchasing the unit. He's since gone MIA and the fireplace has been sitting in my living room all winter. I've decided to to the demo myself and am having a different installer come out to reevaluate next month.

The width of this cavity to the jack stud is about 43" and according to the install manual I need approx 51" to combustible framing.

Any suggestions ? If the cavity was lined with cement board would that be sufficient ?
 

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Bummer. I don't think there's going to be any shortcut here. But let's let the pros weigh in on it.
 
Well, I wrote a whole thing about your side walls but after looking at your post again I realized what you was saying. The rough opening is to small. Still will need to be re-frame so you have the clearance. Will have to extend the header and move the jack stud over as far as you need them to be so to get your correct rough opening.Still not a huge job for a carpenter. Just a pain. Good luck

Jeff
 
Unfortunately the wall to the right is as far as it goes. Where you see the jack stud there is a load bearing wall running perpendicular.

:(
 
I just went and read though the install manual on Napoleon's web site and it requires that you use steel studs as your header and framing above the unit up to 96" from the base of the unit and 6" side clearance. As for facing material they require cement board out 6 and 3/4 to each side and 96" in height. Looks like you have a lot more demo in your future.
 
mikeyd said:
I have now discovered my cavity is not going to support the NZ26 framing requirements for clearances of 6" to the sides.

The challenge is I have the stove purchased already ,I was told from an installer that it wouldn't be an issue before I went ahead with purchasing the unit. He's since gone MIA and the fireplace has been sitting in my living room all winter. Any suggestions ?
Click to expand...

If you got it for a good price, you might be able to sell it and make most of your cash back since it is still BRAND NEW.

Here's another true ZC that might work for you:
http://www.flame-intl.com/product.aspx?CategoId=19&Id=447&Page=spec

Made in Canada. I don't know the price, you can go to their website to find a local dealer.
 
Understood. I didn't proceed with the rest until I could figure out the side clearance. The steel header and center studs to metal will not be a problem. Can I reduce the 6 inch clearance in any way ??
 
Technically no, as the unit is certifed with that 6" side clearance in place. There is probally ways using steel to create heatsheilds that could reduce those clerances, but i would be worried about radiant heat or creating too tight of a cavity that could overheat the unit. I think it would be best to spend some time and try to find a way to rebuild that structure to get the required clearances
 
Legally and codewise, I don't think so either. You need to go by the manufacturer's tested clearances and installation directions.
 
Get a pro carpenter. It shouldn't matter if the jack stud is support for the framing above. You should be able to upsize the header and extend it from one side of the opennnig to the other if you wanted to. This should be an easy fix. It looks like you have a 2x6 header. I can't imagine you wouldn't be able to upsize the header to carry the jack too.
 
Prosecond said:
Get a pro carpenter. It shouldn't matter if the jack stud is support for the framing above. You should be able to upsize the header and extend it from one side of the opennnig to the other if you wanted to. This should be an easy fix. It looks like you have a 2x6 header. I can't imagine you wouldn't be able to upsize the header to carry the jack too.
Click to expand...

I agree - not too difficult to rebuild this - seems like it just because it's unexpected.
 
Prosecond said:
Get a pro carpenter. It shouldn't matter if the jack stud is support for the framing above. You should be able to upsize the header and extend it from one side of the opennnig to the other if you wanted to. This should be an easy fix. It looks like you have a 2x6 header. I can't imagine you wouldn't be able to upsize the header to carry the jack too.
Click to expand...

Agreed, it's unexpected, but not insurmountable. Get some help and do it right. The last thing you want to do is encase this unit cutting corners. When it is full of a raging, hot, fire you want to be sure it has met or exceeded all clearances, all the way up to the top of the flue cap.
 
Hi Everyone

Thanks for the feedback and totally understand the concept of respecting the fire but in the end I think I'm dead-in-the-water here. The one picture I posted doesn't serve the limitations I'm faced with justice. Here's another pic. They are load bearing walls not easily picked apart and reconstructed I fear. I have a WETT installer coming out to have a look and advise.

Not throwing in the towel just yet but .... anyone looking for cheap NZ26WI ? PM me. :)

Suggestions on some other models ? This job has totally gone south for me thanks to a rogue HVAC guy that is now MIA.
 

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Take a good look at BIS and RSF units. There's lot's of choice between the two companys and are the ones that we feel comfortable with for good quality and heat output
 
You are way over thinking this. I think this would easily by fixed in about 30 minutes with a sawzall, a couple of 2x4's and a new header. Pay a structural engineer $50 to size the header and replace it with a longer one. Run the header from one side to the other of the wall. It can't be more than 2' longer for the header. I would be willing to bet a new 2x10 header would be more than sufficient. Bet a 2x8 could easily do this. Are you just carrying roof and wall load?
 
When I have to reframe a cavity to install a NZ26, I use steel studs thru out. You can use the steel studs anywhere. CTC means nothing to them so it makes for a better overall fit and finish in the end.
 
Thanks Keith

Sorry, to clarify, are you suggesting I could use steel studs for the load bearing portions as well and simply redo the cavity in steel ???
 
mikeyd said:
Thanks Keith

Sorry, to clarify, are you suggesting I could use steel studs for the load bearing portions as well and simply redo the cavity in steel ???
Click to expand...
I sorry if I misread, steel studs are not for load bearing walls. You could finish off non supportive framing with steel. Sorry I am on my phone viewing this. When I get to a computer o will check out picturea and see if I can further assist.
 
I'm with Prosec on this one too. Take out those inside half-studs and existing header, put in a longer (and even a higher) header and you are going to have all the room you are likely to need. Yeah, your surround widht on the facing gets narrower, and you might not be able to salvage your stone facing, but you'll get your stove in there safely. If the stone is special, rent a wet saw and have some fun. More work than you counted on (isn't it always?), but you can get this done.
 
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