Does anyone have propane tanks installed vertically, and pictures of how you installed 'em and stabilized 'em?
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Pictures of vertical tank installs?
- Thread starter mapratt
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Singed Eyebrows
Minister of Fire
My tank was built for me & has a support ring. I have read where members use truck rims & weld them to the tank head. For extra stability just weld 3 or 4 tabs on the edge & use concrete anchors, RandyMarilyn said:
Thanks, Eyebrows! Given I'm cleaning up a farm, I do have a lot of tires to deal with... Interesting thought, using a tire rim for a good purpose.
I'm thinking I'll need to strap it sort of like we strap hot water heaters here in earthquake country, but seriously beefier. Coastal Oregon - we do get some shaking here.
I'm thinking I'll need to strap it sort of like we strap hot water heaters here in earthquake country, but seriously beefier. Coastal Oregon - we do get some shaking here.
Singed Eyebrows
Minister of Fire
Wow, that would give me the creeps to need to strap down a water heater. Good luck, RandyMarilyn said:
Yeah, Randy, the price we pay to live in paradise :roll:
It is startling to experience the earth itself moving. Sort of challenges some fundamental assumptions.
It is startling to experience the earth itself moving. Sort of challenges some fundamental assumptions.
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
I think it would have been easier to weld the tank to the rim and get plumb if I would have did it right where they sit. I had to shim the rims on one side to get the tanks perfectly plumb.
Beautiful, J.T.! Thanks so much for the photos, as well as the 'next time' thoughts.
We want to tap in two lines *near* the bottom for normal operation. Interesting thought about also putting one directly *at* the bottom, to drain out that last bit, I guess, if I ever need to drain the tank? We'd have to tilt the tank to get to the valve, unless access were cut into the tire rim?
We want to tap in two lines *near* the bottom for normal operation. Interesting thought about also putting one directly *at* the bottom, to drain out that last bit, I guess, if I ever need to drain the tank? We'd have to tilt the tank to get to the valve, unless access were cut into the tire rim?
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
I would put a hole in the rim and have it directly on bottom if you have enough head room. It will make it easier to clean and flush the first time you fill it. If you can't atleast get it as close to the bottom as possible. It will allso charge the bottom of the tank better. If plumbing two or more parallel Keep the holes at the same height and use the same length pipe for each side. I didn't get mine perfect and have to throttle one tank to get them to charge evenly.
Oooh - thank you - you just gave me a juicy topic to search for: plumbing parallel tanks.
It's interesting figuring out what to think about...
It's interesting figuring out what to think about...
killick
Member
woodsmaster, two 500 gal tanks, correct? What are your tank dimensions, roughly 3' by 10'? I sure wish I could source those around here.
Thanks;
Earl
Thanks;
Earl
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
Paver56
Member
I live in PA and was able to find tanks that are 42" wide and only 8' long. I plan on using these when I put in my new boiler. I thought I was going to have to go horizontal til I found these shorter tanks.
One question for those who have vertical tanks-what is the minimum number of inches that I need to figure for the T's at the top and bottom. My ceiling is 8'6". I will remove and lower the floor a little if I have to but would rather not do it. Also, is it better to have a return in the very bottom or can I get away with coming in the side as low as I can?
One question for those who have vertical tanks-what is the minimum number of inches that I need to figure for the T's at the top and bottom. My ceiling is 8'6". I will remove and lower the floor a little if I have to but would rather not do it. Also, is it better to have a return in the very bottom or can I get away with coming in the side as low as I can?
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
Ben said:
You can get away with the return on the side, thats where mine are. It will be harder to clean out, I had to pump the water and cleaner out of the bottom of the tank with a garden hose pump and it took a long time. It will also be harder to charge the bottom of the tank. It would definitly be better on the bottom.
Thanks, J.T. / Woodmaster -
So the outlet at the bottom is not just for draining, it's also one of the active connections to the boiler.
If we have two high, and two low, we would put two in the bottom?
I guess I'm becoming a pest - I've graduated to "burning chunk"
So the outlet at the bottom is not just for draining, it's also one of the active connections to the boiler.
If we have two high, and two low, we would put two in the bottom?
I guess I'm becoming a pest - I've graduated to "burning chunk"
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
Ben said:
On mine I welded a 2" nipple to the top with a T on that with a plug on top to let out air and to add chemicales so about 5 or 6 inches plus room to dump stuff in. on the bottom the T could be sideways so about 4".
A friend near here took some 500 gallon propane tanks and cut them a short distance from one end, then inverted that dome and welded them back onto the body of the tank, and then cut some parts out of the resulting "foot ring" to allow pallet jack tines in underneath. Seemed to work very well, and gives a base as wide as the tank, unlike a truck rim.
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
Marilyn said:
When you first fill and add cleaner you have to heat up to temp then drain and flush.
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
pybyr said:
I considered doing this with mine but thought it would be to much cutting and welding for me. It would work nice ,but you would lose about 50 gallon per tank. there would also
be an area around the perimiter for sedement to collect that couldn't be cleaned out.
if it were me.. i would put one drain /clean out at the bottom if their is rust / or suff in the pipes/tanks / boiler. it will settle there and hopefull not get in pumps/valves ....one pipe out the side at the lowest part of the tank just above the bottom part of the round.....anyway my two cents..brent
woodsmaster
Minister of Fire
burnt gloves said:
All good systyms should have a strainer to catch rust etc. before it gets to the boiler and circulator. If your going to have a hole in the bottom you may as well use it for the return. the bottom of the tank will charge better.
huffdawg
Minister of Fire
Here's a picture of the vertical install I have.
The tanks are new 240 gallon air compressor tanks instead of propane, but a similar outcome.
At the bottom of the tanks I do have a connection that I used to connect a drain line to a valve.
When I drained the tanks after filling and heating, it did let out allot of crud.
I will use them maybe semi-annually to flush out any sediment that has accumulated.
As previously mentioned, try and get all pipes between the tanks the same length so that they will charge and discharge at the same rate.
The tanks are new 240 gallon air compressor tanks instead of propane, but a similar outcome.
At the bottom of the tanks I do have a connection that I used to connect a drain line to a valve.
When I drained the tanks after filling and heating, it did let out allot of crud.
I will use them maybe semi-annually to flush out any sediment that has accumulated.
As previously mentioned, try and get all pipes between the tanks the same length so that they will charge and discharge at the same rate.
Attachments
huffdawg
Minister of Fire
- Status
Similar threads
