Breckwell Big E won't start-up

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

hlp722

New Member
Mar 14, 2011
4
Eastern CT
After cleaning our Breckwell Big E yesterday, it will not start - we push the On button and there is power but after 10 seconds it turns off. During the 10 seconds it is on you can tell something is not getting power or working as you would generally hear it starting up. We cleaned the convection motor and air intake along with the rest of the normal cleaning. Does anyone know if this would be a control panel issue or something else? One item to note is that when removing the side panel and unplugging the control panel, the stove was still plugged in (obvisouly turned off) so not sure if that may have something to do with this.
 
hlp722 said:
After cleaning our Breckwell Big E yesterday, it will not start - we push the On button and there is power but after 10 seconds it turns off. During the 10 seconds it is on you can tell something is not getting power or working as you would generally hear it starting up. We cleaned the convection motor and air intake along with the rest of the normal cleaning. Does anyone know if this would be a control panel issue or something else? One item to note is that when removing the side panel and unplugging the control panel, the stove was still plugged in (obvisouly turned off) so not sure if that may have something to do with this.

There is power to that control board as long as the stove is plugged in.

What lights are flashing when the 10 seconds is up?

It sounds like the combustion blower might not be starting.
 
Was the combustion blower cleaned? If so check the conections its possible to pull the spade terminals apart by accident. Also check to see if the vacumm switch is plugged.
 
Check your manual or download from Breckwell.com. Check your wiring for loose connections and check you Convection blower feed wires for voltage.

The manual will give you some other things to check, Sealed firebox, plugged air intake etc..
 
hlp722 said:
It's blinking #2 and we had not cleaned the combustion blower - going to try that today.

No vacuum in firebox, combustion blower likely didn't start for whatever reason. You need to pull the plug, verify that the controller is properly attached to its wiring harness if not then you need to rectify that situation, then check any fuses that may be present on the control board and rectify if needed, and finally verify the connections on the combustion blower ... . It is also possible that in cleaning you plugged the vacuum line, the combustion blower cavity, or left an ash pan door or drawer ajar.
 
thank you for responses - we do have the manual and have always referred to the troubleshooting section. Will try recommendationa above and hope it fixes it - thanks!
 
Check your venting. Make sure it is clear, do not think it is. Pull it apart if you can. Also check the screen on the cap to make sure it is not plugged.

Eric
 
hlp722 said:
thank you for responses - we do have the manual and have always referred to the troubleshooting section. Will try recommendationa above and hope it fixes it - thanks!

You might want to try blowing into the vacuum hose to push out any ash that might have went into the hose. Disconnect from the vacuum switch. and blow towards thwe stove. should be a red hose.
 
If none of the above fix the problem, the only thing left, if the blower is still good, is the possibility that the blower needs oil, unless it's the type that never needs oil. I speak from my experience today of wasting a day of work removing my blower when all it needed was oil. But it was made in 1988.
 
So looks like the combustion blower is the problem and with some quick cleaning the stove is back running. We do need to take the time this weekend and fully clean the combustion blower - is there any type of lubricant we can use after that is safe and recommended for this type of use?
 
Most that take oil, will use a straight 40w, or other people including myself, use the Blue and White bottle of 3-in-1 oil, designed for electric motors. Its always best to look up what your specific manufacturer recommends.
 
DexterDay said:
Most that take oil, will use a straight 40w, or other people including myself, use the Blue and White bottle of 3-in-1 oil, designed for electric motors. Its always best to look up what your specific manufacturer recommends.

SAE #20 non detergent or 3 in 1 Blue and White which is SAE #20 non detergent.
 
I saw that my blower recommended SAE 20# but it occurred to me that combustion type blowers may be made mainly for a use other than pellet stoves, a use that doesn't include blowing fire-heated air. The stove makers are only going to pass-on the manufacturers recommendation but it may be meant for blowers that just blow air, not heated air. If you're smart, you may find it wise to question everything, like questioning why it would be OK to put in an oil that chemically disintegrates/carbonizes and thickens after long use in a high temp. environment. I'd choose a synthetic motor oil if I were you (it doesn't break-down) if I didn't already have a 4 oz. bottle of Zoom Spout Oiler by Norvey Inc. It has a pull-out tube that's about 10" long. It says it * withstands high temperatures *a must for heater blowers *highest quality turbine oiler *bearings, bushings, shafts, tools * over 60,000,000 sold . I don't know where you can buy it, I got my bottle at a yard sale.
 
SAE#20 non detergent is the recommended oil for for the motor and its use.

FASCO knew what the unit was going to be used for.

But people can use whatever floats their boat, just don't cry when it doesn't work.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
SAE#20 non detergent is the recommended oil for for the motor and its use.

FASCO knew what the unit was going to be used for.

But people can use whatever floats their boat, just don't cry when it doesn't work.
Smokey. I went back and looked at the motor. I read it wrong. It is SAE 20. But I do use the 3-in-1 blue and white bottle for elecric motors. Works well. So far anyhow.
 
DexterDay said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
SAE#20 non detergent is the recommended oil for for the motor and its use.

FASCO knew what the unit was going to be used for.

But people can use whatever floats their boat, just don't cry when it doesn't work.
Smokey. I went back and looked at the motor. I read it wrong. It is SAE 20. But I do use the 3-in-1 blue and white bottle for elecric motors. Works well. So far anyhow.

Blue and white 3 in 1 is SAE #20 non detergent oil so you used the correct stuff.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
DexterDay said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
SAE#20 non detergent is the recommended oil for for the motor and its use.

FASCO knew what the unit was going to be used for.

But people can use whatever floats their boat, just don't cry when it doesn't work.
Smokey. I went back and looked at the motor. I read it wrong. It is SAE 20. But I do use the 3-in-1 blue and white bottle for elecric motors. Works well. So far anyhow.

Blue and white 3 in 1 is SAE #20 non detergent oil so you used the correct stuff.
I was hoping that was the case. Thanks
 
Well here's a thought, for motors that require annual or bi-annual oiling, you should think of them as you would your engine. If you use SAE normal motor oil in your car, you need to change your oil every 4-5,000 miles, but if you use synthetic motor oil (developed for the space program) then you can go 15-25,000 miles or more. Same with the oiling frequency for the blower motor. Synthetic is superior to regular oil and exceeds its standards by far so one wouldn't have to oil their motor as often. And it would be better protected against heat degradation.
I once came across an old Popular Mechanics from the late '70s and opened it to an article about the "new" advance in motor oil, -Mobile One. There were before and after pictures of the inside of the valve covers of an engine that they ran for the equivalent of 100,000 miles. The covers were as clean after that as before. (But synthetic motor oil manufacturers don't want the public to realize just how long-enduring their oils are because that would cut down on the frequency of oil changes and the profits they reap each time someone buys their product.)
So SAE 20# will fit the bill, but can't provide the protection in the short or long term that its superior brother can provide. Of course this is pretty irrelevant if ones oil-requiring motors are easy to reach for oiling, but mine are a groan. If I can avoid that chore for a year or three, I'm all for it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.