lennox profile 20 too many problems

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enchanting123

New Member
Mar 20, 2011
3
New Mexico
We had to replace the combustion motor on our profile 20 (whitefield), it was smoking up the whole house and the repair guy determined it was the combustion motor.
So this got fixed and now the stove lights fine, no smoke, but after about 25 - 30 minutes it shuts off , pellets are in the crate and the green fault light is blinking. Any suggestion what could be the problem now. Very frustrated and glad it is getting warmer so we really don't need it right now, but eventually need to get this fixed.
 
You didn't say what kind of flame you had after lighting it. Was there a big enough and hot enough and aggressive enough flame to keep the fire going? If not, it will go out. Also, what auger speed (heat setting) was it set at? If it's set very low, the small amount of pellets released could be insufficient to produce enough heat to keep later pellets burning.
 
possible photoeye is dirty, or overtemp snap switch is tripping....thats my guesses.
 
Since enchanting123 has a new combustion blower I'll not mention a failing combustion blower, however I will toss in our old friend a plugged vent or stove which would lead to possible vacuum issues and even could have lead to the demise of the first combustion blower.

Welcome to the forum enchanting123.
 
I also agree with Delta, sounds like a dirty photoeye to me. Or the little slot the eye looks into could be blocked by fines or ash.
 
Thanks to all of you who have replied. We cleaned the the photoeye lense (orange), but my husband noticed it has a scratch. Could that be a problem why the stove is turning of.
The flame seems to be fine after it lights. It turns off all of a sudden after about 25-30 minutes.
The repair guy thought it might be the control board. This would be another big expense to fix.
Thanks again for all of your replies. Could the scratch on the photoeye lense cause it to shut down?
 
scratch could do that....that lens is not cheap either.
 
Perhaps the liquid used to repair scratches in eye glasses could fix the scratch enough to make it work properly. But it seems there must be a way to test its functioning, perhaps the service manual, not the owner's manual, would give a method to test it or bypass it.
 
I would agree with Delta also, after 30 min it is overheating and tripping the switch. A dirty lens will eventually stop heating and show a fault by flashing green. I,m not sure about the scratch. I would clean top to bottom and front to back and check the overheat switch
 
photo eye is bad, in before you go spend $135.00 on a new one...check this out. Amazon.com, $25.98 total

21ij2t5PfLL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

21HA9QC8FTL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


A scratch in the orange filter isn't going to affect anything. You can also replace the switch with a ceramic 140 degree snap disc on the exhaust port, like the real whitfields used to have.

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-C55...JC7M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300675944&sr=8-1
 
Before going to buy a new photoeye, i would replace the lense first. If it has a scratch in it then that would definately make the stove not see the fire, especially if the scratch is in the middle of the lense. Ive never really seen a photoeye go bad, usually just needs to be cleaned or something is wrong with the lense. But anything is possible.
 
From the troubleshooting section of the manual. If you show a fault there are 4 things that cause this. Since you have pellets in the grate only 2 apply.
1 photo eye not detecting flame. 2 A disc has tripped/pressure switch. If the latter it says to clean per manual instructions, the former to check the connection at the control board following yellow wires to all connecters and inspect /clean photo eye.
 
Enchanting:
If you have a volt meter - and are familiar with its use, you can do this:

Set the DVM on 200 VAC. When the stove is cold, connect the leads across the thermal switch with a couple of aligator clips. The voltage reading should be zero with a cold stove - Normally Closed (NC) contacts closed.

Reset the stove to get the fire started. As the fire starts the voltage should remain at zero and never increase. Watch the meter for the entire 1/2 hour as the stove and room heat up. The voltage should never increase from zero. Now, it the thermal switch sees a temperature range above its trip point (typically 140F) the NC contacts will open, the voltage will increase to (probably) ~120 VAC and the stove will enter its error cycle (a cool down cycle). Note the green light only begins flashing at the end of the cool down cycle. This could be several minutes after the voltage increases to 12o VAC - indicating an over temperature situation.

Now, if the stove shuts down and you never see a voltage increase across the NC contact of the thermal switch, the stove has not shut down for an over temperature condition. In this situation, I would begin to investigate the photo eye as the reason for the shutdown.

Let us know what you find out here ...

RonB
 
I have a similar model lennox take-over and had a similar problem. Replaced the board (changed nothing) so don't do that. I would suggest to replace the snap switch on the combustion blower (jump it first to make sure its at fault and shutting the stove down. if jumped and the stove continues to run ok, it's likely that switch).
 
Thank you to all of you kind people out there, who are willing to share their knowledge about those pellet stoves. I will keep all of them and show them to my husband, because I would not have a clue how to do any of those things. Thank you so very much. And if anybody has any other advise I would like to hear from them.
Right now it is so warm already I really don't worry about getting it fixed right now; which is a good thing. But sooner or later we have to do something about the problem. At least we have a gas furnace in this house, and it did not cost that much to run it this winter.
 
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