Moving the boiler into the shop....... Need some chimney recommendations.

Sounds good to me. I think it's your best bet putting the stove in the barn. I was also thinking today how much warmer my basement would be if my Eko 25 was in the basement.Three ft. above anything within 10' of the top of the pipe is fine. I actually think it's 2' but who cares. Menards is the cheapest you will get and works fine. I had menards for 15 years with a free standing stove and never wore out. I was wondering how your fiasco was going just today. I'm even heading to Phillips next week to shed antler hunt and wondering how much snow is in the woods.

Another option would be to move the boiler around so it sits inboard from the walls some, then run the chimney up through the roof. This would require penetrating a steel roof, which I’m not particularly fond of, but would support the chimney at probably the 14 foot level, leaving only three sections above the roof, which should be easily supported by a roof guy…..

What do you guys think?

Click to expand...

Exactly what I did. I have 14' side walls on my shop. I fashioned my own flashing for the roof, and it has just about made the first year with no leaks. You can see from my pix that my chimney is a fair amount greater than 3 feet above the roof. Good luck.

I'm so jealous of how clean your boiler room is, I burn coal, so my boiler room is always a dusty mess, LOL.

Matt:
Just a fyi.......my understanding of the code says you have to be at least 3 feet above the point you pierce the roof, and also a minimum of 2' above any point on the roof within 10 feet (horizontal measurement) of the flue. My feeling is that if you have a fire rated roof and NO vents (that could allow something to get into your unconditioned attic).......it's a pretty good rule. I've been fighting a similar issue (in a house), but am concerned about embers getting into ridge vents......I think at a minimum I'd play it safe and try to stay a couple feet (vertical measure) above any vent openings, even if more than 10 foot away....... when "the hawk" blows...... the little sparkeys could go sideways - instead of up....... guess I lean in the direction of safe rather than sorry...... I was hoping to find some new super whoopie vent design - that improved their ability to filter any potential embers.......to date have not come up with anything....... also remember you may need a way to support the vertical load (weight) of the flue assembly.....some flue systems have special strap brackets to transfer all that loading into the roof - and not the stove below....... also be advised that more flue exposed to the wind can cool the exhaust temps and have a potential for condensation and gunk build up inside the flue.....Moving the boiler closer to the center of the barn and keeping more of the flue inside would have a couple advantages (wind load, cooling and a way to get a cleaning brush into it)....... As usual I'm short on answers and long on raising questions.......
Dan

I’ll let the boiler support the chimney….. It will definitely be able to handle it. And no stovepipe that way either.

Click to expand...

There is an advantage to stovepipe in that it delivers a lot of heat into the shop. Also, stovepipe is easily disconnected and dropped from the ceiling, which makes cleaning the chimney a breeze - no need to get up on the roof.

jebatty said:

I’ll let the boiler support the chimney….. It will definitely be able to handle it. And no stovepipe that way either.

Click to expand...

There is an advantage to stovepipe in that it delivers a lot of heat into the shop. Also, stovepipe is easily disconnected and dropped from the ceiling, which makes cleaning the chimney a breeze - no need to get up on the roof.

Click to expand...

It's also a lot cheaper.

If you come out through the roof near the ridge with the class A pipe at just the right distance the Selkirk flashing unit will drape over the ridge and drain very nicely. Just bend the flange on the high side of the flashing unit to go over the other slope of the roof.

I found with the Selkirk cap on the top of the pipe that any wind I get actually increases the draft (I have a draft gage) and I've never seen it lower draft with any combination of wind and direction.

Without a doubt go up thru the inside of your shop....cheap black pipe, extra heat gain, easy to remove and clean, less creosote and condensation buildup as well...

You will be very pleasantly surprised at the extra heat this method generate compared to running it outside.

Good luck...hope it works out well for you....

M

Kawliga said:

Without a doubt go up thru the inside of your shop....cheap black pipe, extra heat gain, easy to remove and clean, less creosote and condensation buildup as well...

You will be very pleasantly surprised at the extra heat this method generate compared to running it outside.

Good luck...hope it works out well for you....

M

Click to expand...

I'm not sure about less creasote but it should work OK. I thought insulated would create less creasote. Shouldn't be a problem with a gasser.

woodsmaster said:

Kawliga said:

Without a doubt go up thru the inside of your shop....cheap black pipe, extra heat gain, easy to remove and clean, less creosote and condensation buildup as well...

You will be very pleasantly surprised at the extra heat this method generate compared to running it outside.

Good luck...hope it works out well for you....

M

Click to expand...

I'm not sure about less creasote but it should work OK. I thought insulated would create less creasote. Shouldn't be a problem with a gasser.

Click to expand...

In my experience where I live, running Selkirk or similar 2" insulated chimney outside creates a lot more creosote than similar length of regular stove pipe run inside. The black pipe runs much hotter than the insulated, insulated run outside can be prone to cooler stack temps, condensation, and thus will accumulate more creosote....big variable here is still your quality of wood...

Mike

The selkirk I installed for my shop stove actually required a length of black pipe from the stove to the insulated portion. They sell an adapter for this purpose. Much easier to clean. Not certain if the insulated pipe could attach real well to appliance. A plus is the extra heat of the single wall which is a thicker gauge than regular smoke pipe.

Will

I have mine near the edge of the roof, of course my shed isn't very wide so nothing is far from the edge of the roof. I centered the penetration on a seam in the steel roofing, I actually used this to fine tune the placement of the boiler. I used a scrap piece of the roofing to make a template for the flashing, I made the template so it fit reasonably tight around the outside of the flashing with the flashing flange under the roofing material. Using the template, it was relatively easy to mark and cut the hole in the roofing. Since the hole was centered on a seam, I removed fasteners from the steel roofing and slid the flashing underneath the roofing material. A nice bead of silicone caulk between the roofing and the flashing and it was sealed. Its been this way 3+ years without any leaks.