Quadra Fire Sante fe control box issue

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Den-Den

New Member
Nov 8, 2008
34
WI
Hi there all, I have an older Sante fe that has been wonderful for me till today, Noticed a lot of pellets had filled the pot to overflowing it. after a thorough cleaning I turned it back on and waited, and waited and waited for pellets to drop, Nothing. I had this happen one other time and found the tube to vacuum switch plugged, not this time, I checked for vacuum and was pulling .15 IN-Wg according to my fancy tester from work, The switch is closing when checked with an ohm meter, all snap discs ohm good. So I dug around and in my papers I found one for the control box that told of the different settings for the control box, on the bottom of the page it says to put in setting #0 for diagnosis, so I did, the Combustion blower, convection blower and ignitor prove out for the 10 second cycle, but the auger didn't feed, I checked and there is no power coming out of box on terminal #10 to the auger. Inside the control box nothing looks burnt and the fuse is good, so my question is this, does anyone know what tanker, hotel or gizmo holding the PFM may be the culprit inside the box? I hate to spend a few hundred bucks if all i need to do is replace a triac, optoisolator, or 0.1uF, 400V capacitors, big words I found about these boards, but not the info I needed for my problem. I am going to try to contact Pantrol also as they built the board but figured I'd ask here too.
Thanks for reading and any info.
Den-Den
 
First, I'd make very sure that the connector on the board is making good contact with the cable. You could try swapping a couple of triacs with each other to see what happens - if the problem moves, the triac is bad. If everything looks good on the board, including the fuse(s), then the triac is the next suspect on my list. It's been my experience that the "high powered" components are the ones that fail the most, and in this case, that would be the triac for the motor.
 
TurboTech should be along any time now to help you and possibly troubleshoot/fix your board. If you search, in a post from a few months ago, all the replacement triacs, etc were listed with new part #'s.
 
Quick update, I did a bit of testing, found F2 was blown on the board, looked like a resistor, I soldered in a 1 amp fuse, now the auger always runs again. Back to square 1, oh yea I never did mention the getting torqued because as I was working on the stove the GF came in and said the garage door spring broke, bad timing, I did find out that Sante fe glass doors will crack when slammed in a bit of a hissy fit...stupid me:(..(All I wanted to do today was dig out my Dodge Stealth and get ready for a road trip next weekend) Come on Spring hurry up already!!!!
 
heat seeker said:
First, I'd make very sure that the connector on the board is making good contact with the cable. You could try swapping a couple of triacs with each other to see what happens - if the problem moves, the triac is bad. If everything looks good on the board, including the fuse(s), then the triac is the next suspect on my list. It's been my experience that the "high powered" components are the ones that fail the most, and in this case, that would be the triac for the motor.
I swapped the two triacs before I posted, forgot to mention that, found they are for convection and combustion blower. There isn't one I can see for the auger. thanks and any suggestions are welcome,, keep them coming
 
Your luck sounds just like mine - all bad!!!! First, that glass is going to COST!!! Second, I assume the spring that broke is the torsion version. They can literally kill you if you don't respect them and read up on how to set them. Ask me how I know!!!! Be very, very careful!!!!
 
Glass for the door about $90.00 Spring was the long one, rebent the end to make a hook. Torsion springs do bite I know! Dodge Stealth still under cover and under snow:(
Our luck can only get better. Right?

As far as heat for tonight I wired in an Allen Bradley timer set at 10 seconds on and 20 seconds off. Hope to fix board or order a new one very soon.
 
I searched the forum for hours on any info for the board, nothing jumped out, another forum had a little bit but nothing for mine. Couldn't find any part numbers here either.
 
Page one of this one shows some parts for 'A' control box but maybe not yours exactly. Might point you in the right direction. PM 'turbotech' if you like. I know he could help.
Glad to hear the spring fix was an easy one. I was surprised at how cheap the glass was. I tried to find glass for a wood stove my dealer broke while he had it for consignment and it was super expensive. Like $300.
Hope you get her going. Sounds like you know what you're doing. I've toyed around with the idea of replacing the control box with a Cubloc controller to give more feedback and monitor each step for easier troubleshooting. I have a program written except haven't figured out exactly how to monitor the temperature. Love to tinker. :)
 
tjnamtiw said:
Page one of this one shows some parts for 'A' control box but maybe not yours exactly. Might point you in the right direction. PM 'turbotech' if you like. I know he could help.
Glad to hear the spring fix was an easy one. I was surprised at how cheap the glass was. I tried to find glass for a wood stove my dealer broke while he had it for consignment and it was super expensive. Like $300.
Hope you get her going. Sounds like you know what you're doing. I've toyed around with the idea of replacing the control box with a Cubloc controller to give more feedback and monitor each step for easier troubleshooting. I have a program written except haven't figured out exactly how to monitor the temperature. Love to tinker. :)
All right, I must be an idiot and one who is not keen on forums for their complexity, I can't find this elusive page one you speak of.
I did PM turbo tech though and the house did stay warm with the jeri rigged timer, got down to -6 outside again last night, enough winter already!!!
 
No, I'm the idiot. I can't tell you how many times I forget to insert the 'copied' address into a post. dumb dumb dumb...... https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/64546/

Looks like it could be a relay and not a triac for the auger since you don't have to adjust the speed on it. The triac's let you chop the AC to vary the speed, I think.

Let's try again. :red:
 
Thanks interesting read, you and I have a lot in common from bad luck to choice of headphones. Anyway I looked at my board again, not sure why? I've stared at it's magical being way to long yesterday, but I only see one relay in the traditional sense. When I do the test mode, the relay clicks and as far as testing has shown it is for the ignitor. The board has the identifier Pantrol P/N 010606 Not sure what really controls the auger as I am very novice in electronics or the PFM that goes on in them.
 
OK took a picture of the board with what I suspect to be naughty parts. Anyone please chime in, The two items circled are suspect, F2 I had jumpered and I think it is a fuse and power only went in and not out to the auger. The other item circled has the number AOH2223, not sure what it is or crosses to but in the same circuit as the F2.
 

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there is only one on the board that looks like that and it powers the ignitor. Wish I could read Chinese as the AOH2223 is listed but all in Chinese. Looks to be a triac of sorts.
 
the upper circled one is an integrated circuit. The number crosses to timers. The bottom one LOOKS like a capacitor but F2 would make you think it's a fuse. Maybe a fusible link??? Got me on that one. No markings on it? I don't see another relay besides the Potter Brumfield one.
 
A timer you say? makes sense as the auger is timed on/off Did you have luck on a part number?
The other one says F 1 1/2A So think it's a fuse.
 
Den-Den said:
A timer you say? makes sense as the auger is timed on/off Did you have luck on a part number?
The other one says F 1 1/2A So think it's a fuse.

No luck on the AOH2223 but on Digikey.com you'll find several IC's with the 2223. Some are timers and others are analog to digital converters OR optoisolators. I'll keep looking. Wish turbotech would drop in.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...arch_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=2223&x=0&y=0

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=751-1490-5-ND
 
Hey thanks for the help! I posted on our local Craig s list looking for a dead board that may have a different issue so I have parts to swap out. Will keep you posted
 
tjnamtiw said:
http://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Solid-State-Relays/_/N-6gqku?Keyword=2223&FS=True

it could be AQH2223 INSTEAD OF AOH2223????
Dang, Bravo, :) I took a magnifying glass to it and there it was a "Q" . time to order some parts, Thanks a ton for having better eyes then these old wore out one's I have with big old reading glasses on. OH yea, I have the Stealth out from under wraps!!!
 
That's got to be it! I'd replace the big triacs and the PB relay too. heck the price is right. good luck
 
Parts are ordered, Will keep you all posted. :cheese:
 
Den-Den said:
Parts are ordered, Will keep you all posted. :cheese:

Great. Yea, let me know how it turns out. What did you end up ordering, just for the record in case someone else has the same problem? What was the total cost?
 
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