Jotul Oslo Install Pics

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gbailey1972

Member
Feb 20, 2011
32
Des Moines, IA
I've been having a new Jotul Oslo installed in my house over the last couple of days. It's going to be finished up tomorrow. They still have to finish up some of the small detail/cleanup work inside and then finish putting up the chimney outside. Can't wait.
I know that it's "off season" now but we are still going to use it moderately as the wife and I just love the look and feel of burning wood!
Greg
 

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Congratulations. A few things to check before ignition. If connected with single wall pipe, the pipe requires at least 18" clearance - in all directions, including ceiling and side walls. Don't scrimp, the pipe will get very hot at times. (Double wall is 6") Second, every pipe joint should be screwed with 3 equidistantly spaced screws. The horiz. connection should be pitched slightly uphill by at least 1/4" per ft. And the side door of the stove should be locked closed. It is not permitted for use in a corner installation. Jotul sells a lock for this purpose.
 
Thanks for the info on the side door! I was never informed of that with a corner installation. I'll double check screws as well, I do know that they did put in a slight elevation going to the outside. I did upgrade to the double wall pipe.
 
nice stove... as others will surely chime in soon you have joined the cult of oslo owners here. Thinking about making the switch myself, just got an offer for my VC.
good luck
let us know how she runs
 
Nice looking stove and setup you will enjoy it I'm sure
 
nice setup.

how close to the wall is it? hard to tell from the pics.
 
Be Green, Never heard about that side door restriction. I wonder what it's all about. Is it something new. Any idea? My install is the same, set back as far as I could get it. I used the rear stove heat shield and stove pipe rear shields. I have just enough room to swing the side door fully open. It clears the side wall if you have the handle down and swings to the back of the stove. I have plenty of room to load. Been doing it for 10 years and don't think I'm changing. Greg you may not know it yet but all Oslo owners know the last thing you every want to do is open the front door. Greg good luck with the stove, you will love it.

Tom
 
One thing to try if it doesn't draft well is to use two 45's instead of that 90.
 
maxed_out said:
nice setup.

how close to the wall is it? hard to tell from the pics.

I've got 10.5 inches of clearance on both wall edges. There is enough room to open the side door wide open and easy to load a full length log. There is going to be 18 feet of chimey going up on the outside of the house.
Thanks for all the input everyone. I'm curious to hear back on the response from BeGreen about the side door in a corner install.

Those tile are 14 x 14, if that helps.
 
xman23 said:
Be Green, Never heard about that side door restriction. I wonder what it's all about. Is it something new. Any idea? My install is the same, set back as far as I could get it. I used the rear stove heat shield and stove pipe rear shields. I have just enough room to swing the side door fully open. It clears the side wall if you have the handle down and swings to the back of the stove. I have plenty of room to load. Been doing it for 10 years and don't think I'm changing. Greg you may not know it yet but all Oslo owners know the last thing you every want to do is open the front door. Greg good luck with the stove, you will love it.

Tom

It's been in Jotul side-loading stove manuals for as long as I have been looking at them. This is why we got the Castine instead of the Oslo.

If this is important, it looks like there's room enough to pull the stove forward so that it can be moved to the right to increase clearances on the door side. The flue connection would need to be changed to a pair of 45's with an offset, but that actually might improve draft.
 

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BeGreen said:
xman23 said:
Be Green, Never heard about that side door restriction. I wonder what it's all about. Is it something new. Any idea? My install is the same, set back as far as I could get it. I used the rear stove heat shield and stove pipe rear shields. I have just enough room to swing the side door fully open. It clears the side wall if you have the handle down and swings to the back of the stove. I have plenty of room to load. Been doing it for 10 years and don't think I'm changing. Greg you may not know it yet but all Oslo owners know the last thing you every want to do is open the front door. Greg good luck with the stove, you will love it.

Tom

It's been in Jotul side-loading stove manuals for as long as I have been looking at them. This is why we got the Castine instead of the Oslo.

Darn! Or another word that starts with a capital D!!
Any ideas on the reasoning behind that??
 
If you want to use the side door it needs 16" minimum clearance. That's an open fire directed at the side wall. Looks like you have room to do this by pulling the stove forward and changing the vent config. Or can the stove be rotated so that it's back is facing the left wall? (Again the flue would need a reconfig.)
 
Love Oslo's. My father-in-law has been heating his 2,300 sf raised ranch with it this year. His previous stove was a 1977 "Better'n Bens" fortified filing cabinet. Needless to say, he is lovin' the Oslo. It looks great and he has used 25% less wood this year.
 
I would suggest that you reposition your stove so that you get the required 16" clearance for the side door. Otherwise you will have to lock the side door and use the front door. You will not want to use the front door - makes one heck of a mess!!
 
Here is my corner install. When I open the side door to load the additional draft thru the door feels like it going to suck anything near by into the stove. With normally operation there's not much chance flames are coming out. Maybe what they are concerned with is the draft causing the logs to pop, shooting sparks out the door. For this issue having the sparks not shoot across the room by hitting my stone side wall helps. Since they envision flames coming out the side door they should tell us how it happens so we could avoid ever doing something to cause this. I will be opening the door a bit slower now that I know this.

Tom
 

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xman23 said:
Here is my corner install. When I open the side door to load the additional draft thru the door feels like it going to suck anything near by into the stove. With normally operation there's not much chance flames are coming out. Maybe what they are concerned with is the draft causing the logs to pop, shooting sparks out the door. For this issue having the sparks not shoot across the room by hitting my stone side wall helps. Since they envision flames coming out the side door they should tell us how it happens so we could avoid ever doing something to cause this. I will be opening the door a bit slower now that I know this.

Tom

Tom,
That's a great looking setup! This is just my first go-round with a wood stove. I'm going to keep on doing some upgrades to the room "environment" as we go. Can't wait to get it going!
 
That does look nice. Hard to be sure, but it looks like Tom's stove is further from the wall which increases the left door to wall distance. Tom, do you have pretty generous corner clearances above Jotul's minimums?

I suspect it's not flames shooting out of the door, but sparks and the extra heat with the door open, plus the room needed to insert a long log safely. I think your setup will be ok by changing the position of the stove. Your hearth looks big enough for some wiggle room. The picture doesn't show the rest of the room so it's hard to say what would make the best choice.
 
I used the distances required by Jotel, based on the corner instal, protected walls with a stove rear heat shield, single wall pipe with a heat shield. The distance of the corner was the limit how far you could move it back. Some how I didn't think a corner install was considered a alcove, and missed the locking of the side door. My door swings open 90 degrees and if the handle is sticking out it will hit the wall. With the handle down the door clears the wall and it can swing fully open, 180 degrees. My door has worked fine for 10 years so now is not the time do try something new.

Tom
 
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