Harmon Accentra not shutting off

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G

Glenalmond

Member
Jul 25, 2008
41
Boston MA
Well the topic says it all

This is my third year burning with this Harmon Accentra Freestanding stove never had any troubles before. I get it professionaly cleaned (I have been travelling a lot and just did not want to deal with it myself before everyone chimes in that I can do it I was just tired and lazy this time around).

Now when I go to switch it off by turning the upper left hand knob to the horizontal off position it goes down to a small flame but does not completely shut off. The only way to really have it switch off is to run out of pellets. (I burn barefoots). The auger runs and the pellets feed and those lights showing they are in operation are still lit up when I switch it to the off position.

There are no blinking lights on the panel, this happens if I run it in stove and or room temp, its been a little intermittantant but is happening more often than not now and has only happened after it got cleaned. I have been very careful to make sure the switch is in the off zone and not nudged etc. I have also unpluged the stove and plugged it back in and still the same result.

Anyone out there have any advice on how to deal with this? The wife is a little freaked out that the stove will not shut off since I sold her on the safety of these things (I am not too concerned since it is designed to run for long periods of time). The dealer has been informed and the one guy who sounds like he knows his stuff has said he will talk with Harmon but the dealer is really tough to get a hold of especially now in the middle of all their installs. I am crossing my fingers that someone here knows how to fix it easily.

Thanks

Conrad
 
Do you know if your "Cleaner" pulled the ESP & cleaned that too?
That's where I'd start. It's in the exhaust stream & is secured with
a 1/4" zip screw thru the bracket attached to the probe.
Finding it will be easy. Take the cast plates to either side of
the burnpot out by releasing the clips at the top.
Remove the ashpan & the shroud behind it, by releasing the clips on either side.
Look down the rectangular hole & you will see where the ESP is located.
If it looks bent or damaged in any way, it needs replacing...
If it looks like it's covered in soot, you'll probably hafta remove it to
clean it as it's in there pretty deep...
You will hafat remove the left side panel to remove to access the zip screw
in the bracket.
I hadda use a flexible extension to get at that screw.
I cleaned my ESP with glass cleaner on a paper towel...
Good luck & let us know if you make any headway...
 
Has anyone else experienced this? My father has an Accentra insert and is having the same problem.
I am not familiar with the stove, but as he explains it to me he turns the dial to the off position and it
has become very touchy regarding where off is. He has to adjust it a hair at a time until it turns off.
Any help is much appreciated.
 
Hi should have posted this earlier but here is how it was resolved. It took several tries by my dealer to fix and about a month all told between diagnostics and waiting for the right part.

They tried cleaning and sensor replacement what did the trick was replacing the control circuit board.

Anyhow was a bit of an ordeal but I cant really complain becuase even though it did take some time there was not cost for me (apart from the fact the only way to stop it was to let it run out of pellets)

Con
 
Make sure the ESP probe is good and clean, and does not look bent. If the dealer bent it while putting it back it then that may cause the problem. Also try wiggling the Room temp / stove temp knob a little bit. If the potentiometer is dirty than it will not make good contact and could cause what you are seeing, and if by wiggling the know you notice it has an effect than you should clean the potentiometer with the compressed air electronics cleaner. Make sure the ignitor switch is in the Auto position.
 
Can the potentiometers on these be replaced?
 
gfreek said:
Can the potentiometers on these be replaced?
Click to expand...

I have heard of folks replacing potentiometers on their own, but harman doesnt have a part number for it, and I dont know of any dealers who do that. I guess you can get the part from an electronics supply house and attempt it on your own. Would certainly be cheaper than a new circuit board if you have the technical exepertise to do so.
 
Last year my then 3 year old P68 did the same thing. Dealer replaced the board, end of problem and no cost.

Tom C.
 
Lousyweather said:
gfreek said:
Can the potentiometers on these be replaced?
Click to expand...

I have heard of folks replacing potentiometers on their own, but harman doesnt have a part number for it, and I dont know of any dealers who do that. I guess you can get the part from an electronics supply house and attempt it on your own. Would certainly be cheaper than a new circuit board if you have the technical exepertise to do so.
Click to expand...

There are several sources for the pots on Ebay now. I bought three of them just to have on hand.
 
Dealer came and replaced the control board under warranty. It still doesn't stop feeding now (It seemed like it did when he was here). An additional problem now is the combustion fan never stops, even when the light goes off. ESP is clean. Hard reset doesn't work.

Because its the insert, the only way to kill the power is to turn off the circuit (or uninstall the entire unit). I disconnected the power to the control board until the dealer makes it back out. Does anyone have any other ideas?
 
My board went bad this summer, and I had it replaced under warranty. Since then my stove will not shut off by just turning the switch to "off" if it has shut down once before.
There are two fixes I have found to work.
1st one is a hard restart (Unplugging and plugging back in). This only works once. after it turns off either by turning the fan to "off" or by reaching desired temp in room mode. It will not turn off again.
2nd way is I need to adjust the small white combustion motor speed control up and down a quarter turn while it is in that low burn after i turn the switch to "off" . It makes no sense, but it works.
 
forya said:
My board went bad this summer, and I had it replaced under warranty. Since then my stove will not shut off by just turning the switch to "off" if it has shut down once before.
There are two fixes I have found to work.
1st one is a hard restart (Unplugging and plugging back in). This only works once. after it turns off either by turning the fan to "off" or by reaching desired temp in room mode. It will not turn off again.
2nd way is I need to adjust the small white combustion motor speed control up and down a quarter turn while it is in that low burn after i turn the switch to "off" . It makes no sense, but it works.
Click to expand...

could also be one of the pencil switch settings on the board......I shudder to say this, but the board can be "tweeked" with these settings. I also dont reccommend messing with them unless you know what youre doing....nothing worse than trying to fix a unit that has been tampered with and noone is telling the tech. Also, that little white screw......it varies voltage across the combustion blower, but not by much (5 volts or so?), and really probably shouldnt be messed with unless you are using a magnehelic to test draft at the same time.
 
Lousyweather said:
could also be one of the pencil switch settings on the board......I shudder to say this, but the board can be "tweeked" with these settings. I also dont reccommend messing with them unless you know what youre doing....nothing worse than trying to fix a unit that has been tampered with and noone is telling the tech. Also, that little white screw......it varies voltage across the combustion blower, but not by much (5 volts or so?), and really probably shouldnt be messed with unless you are using a magnehelic to test draft at the same time.
Click to expand...


I was tempted to try and change the dip switches but its still under warranty, so I will let the tech try to figure it out. For the combustion blower, maybe the esp is bad as well causing it to stay on.
 
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