Found a great way to get wood, but having issues

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lfunk11

Member
Jan 8, 2010
116
Morgantown, WV
I paid $25 for a permit to cut any downed trees in the forest next to our neighborhood (as much as I want). The "road" is not that great, but it is about 1.5 miles long and there is plenty of wood. There is a power line that runs through it and they recently cut a bunch of trees that I guess were too close to the power line. Well, I can't bring anything other than my truck (no UTV/ATVs) and I have to stay on the road. What is the best way to move rounds around in the woods? I got one tree today that was pretty close to the road, but the rounds were way too big to lift. Luckily I was able to back my truck up and the tailgate basically came down on the berm so I could just roll them into the truck. There must be at least 20 - 30 large trees within 50 yards of the road, but I am just not seeing a good way to move the big rounds to the truck by myself. I could just look for other wood that is closer to the road, but these are nice sized trees and the clearing for the power line makes it easy to get to them with the chainsaw. They de-limbed the trees an then cut them down and let them fall away from the lines. I will try to take some pics in the morning - seems like the ultimate score if I can figure out a less tiring way to move the rounds to the truck.

The permit is only good for 15 days and the road is only open from April 15th - June 1st. Then it is closed to vehicles until November. I want to get enough wood for at least 5 cords and I have to do it by myself so I need to find a more efficient way to move the wood around.
 
I have a garden wagon that converts from a tow behind for my garden tractor to a pull wagon with a handle. It can carry up to 1200 lbs. This has worked for me to haul wood from areas that I can not get my truck close to. I just toss it back on top of the load and bring it out. It is much better than a wheel barrow. I bought it at Lowes for about $125.00.

Here is a link

http://www.lowes.com/pd_204632-8469...aworx&pl=1&currentURL;=/pl__0__s?Ntt=duraworx

I second the other suggestions of splitting in place and then moving the splits. I will split down the large rounds until I can lift them and then I can use the wagon to move them.
 
The only way that type of wood find works for me is to have a helper and split the big rounds on site. If its not possible to tow a splitter, you have to make do my hand. Depending on the type of wood (Oak is great!) the splitting can be easy with the right hand tools. Trying to hump huge rounds onto a pickup truck can be nasty to say the least. A good solid wheel barrel helps, too. For $25 it sounds like a great deal, worth the effort and in my book it sounds like a lot of fun.

A Cant Hook might help wrestle some of those rounds up into the truck. I've heard some folks set up a ramp and roll them up with the hook.

Good Luck and post some pictures!.
 
Split them in half in the woods?
 
cygnus said:
Split them in half in the woods?
Click to expand...

that crossed my mind, but then wondered if I used energy splitting them up would it be better to just go after the logs closer to the road that might not be as nice. I need to bring the camera tomorrow - I am sure people can give better ideas with pics. There is more wood than I could ever burn in a lifetime so its basically picking the best stuff with the least amount of work :) I think I have 10 days left and I only filled my truck once - stupid rain.
 
I second the split in the woods 1/2 or 1/4 what ever it takes to get it while the getting is good
 
I would leave 10 foot sections whole and get some nylon straps, drag them out onto the road with the truck. Nylon straps or cable may be worth the expense. 150 feet may run a few bucks, but it may be something that allows you to make the best of that situation. If not, get a hand truck with large wheels.
 
mywaynow said:
I would leave 10 foot sections whole and get some nylon straps, drag them out onto the road with the truck. Nylon straps or cable may be worth the expense. 150 feet may run a few bucks, but it may be something that allows you to make the best of that situation. If not, get a hand truck with large wheels.
Click to expand...
And get a snatch block so that you can change direction of the pull. In other words, tie off the snatch block to a tree beside the road and run your cable through it. This way will allow you to drive down the road while actually pulling at a right angle to the road.

Here's a couple of articles about snatch blocks. The first article has some good illustrations.
http://www.wittenburg.co.uk/OffRoading/Recovery/PulleyBlocks.html
http://www.ontariowoodlot.com/pages_pdf_new/snatchblock.pdf

If you really want to get into combining snatch blocks and "mechanical advantage" here is a nice little pdf file...
http://blueandwhitecrew.org/files/TM5725/Chapter 3 Section III & IV.pdf

Angle-Pull.jpg


Best wishes,
Ed
 
I would split them a couple of times in the woods, then consider a wheel barrow to move them. it doesn't take much time to split a big round, and I find it easier to move several lighter logs than a few really heavy ones. The wheel barrow is a fine invention and reasonably maneuverable in the woods.
 
I use a 12 ton hydraulic winch on the truck to pull the logs to the road.
We have 300 foot of cable .
I pull the logs out to the truck and cut them at the road .
I have a aluminum dolly that has big wheels and will lift a large rounds .
 
2 winters ago I pulled over 20 full cord of wood out of my woods after spitting by hand, actually a Fiskars.I used a Vermont Garden cart which I consider to be one of my best investments.Of course I didn't do this all in one day,you would be surprised how much can be accomplished an hour or 2 a day.
 
I went up this morning for a truckload, but the camera batteries were dead. I like the idea of the winch, but not sure I would use the winch for anything else. I may just get a better cart/wheel barrow since mine is old and the metal is beginning to fail from moving wood around. I think that Duraworx cart that fsr4538 mentioned seems like the best for me. It would be nice to use it by hand and with the lawn tractor..

I went after stuff thats been on the ground for a while this time and it went much smoother since I was able to get the truck up to the wood. Since my truck is only 2WD I need to be careful since I don't want to get stuck. The road is gravel, but there are some muddy spots with all the rain. There is a big pile of cut logs that I want to get to, but I have to wait until the ground firms up a bit to get the truck closer. If anyone lives near Morgantown, WV I can let them know how to get to this wood if they are interested - there is a bunch of it and it does not appear that many people know about this. I have never seen anyone up there.
 
I've used our Garden Way cart some and it works great as would a wheelbarrow. The snatch block can work extremely well as Ed posted. Zap likes to use the winch. Some like to just split the wood before carrying it to the truck. I'll throw out another way and that is to cut the trees into 4', 8' or whatever length and then roll that log out to the roadway using a cant hook. When you get the log out then cut it up.

For loading onto the truck you can always take a couple planks (2 x 6's work good) or even build a sort of stairway by placing a couple logs behind the truck and then maybe another one on top of that. Roll the one you want to load up onto that stairway, again, a cant hook works wonders here. Smaller stuff just use your own hands and body. Just use your imagination and find the best method for you.


EDIT: On the cant hook, I can not imagine going into the woods to cut without also taking the cant hook. It works great when the log is on the ground so you cut down as far as you can cut without touching Mother Earth which will dull that chain super fast. After making several cuts, then using the cant hook, roll the log so you can finish the cutting.
 
Intheswamp said:
mywaynow said:
I would leave 10 foot sections whole and get some nylon straps, drag them out onto the road with the truck. Nylon straps or cable may be worth the expense. 150 feet may run a few bucks, but it may be something that allows you to make the best of that situation. If not, get a hand truck with large wheels.
Click to expand...
And get a snatch block so that you can change direction of the pull. In other words, tie off the snatch block to a tree beside the road and run your cable through it. This way will allow you to drive down the road while actually pulling at a right angle to the road.

Here's a couple of articles about snatch blocks. The first article has some good illustrations.
http://www.wittenburg.co.uk/OffRoading/Recovery/PulleyBlocks.html
http://www.ontariowoodlot.com/pages_pdf_new/snatchblock.pdf

If you really want to get into combining snatch blocks and "mechanical advantage" here is a nice little pdf file...
http://blueandwhitecrew.org/files/TM5725/Chapter 3 Section III & IV.pdf

Angle-Pull.jpg


Best wishes,
Ed
Click to expand...

+1
I use a snatch block all the time here in the Mon. National Forest
 
lfunk11 said:
I went up this morning for a truckload, but the camera batteries were dead. I like the idea of the winch, but not sure I would use the winch for anything else. I may just get a better cart/wheel barrow since mine is old and the metal is beginning to fail from moving wood around. I think that Duraworx cart that fsr4538 mentioned seems like the best for me. It would be nice to use it by hand and with the lawn tractor..

I went after stuff thats been on the ground for a while this time and it went much smoother since I was able to get the truck up to the wood. Since my truck is only 2WD I need to be careful since I don't want to get stuck. The road is gravel, but there are some muddy spots with all the rain. There is a big pile of cut logs that I want to get to, but I have to wait until the ground firms up a bit to get the truck closer. If anyone lives near Morgantown, WV I can let them know how to get to this wood if they are interested - there is a bunch of it and it does not appear that many people know about this. I have never seen anyone up there.
Click to expand...

The links I posted weren't necessarily intending to promote a winch (though a good one would be great!)...but as examples of using snatch blocks...simply replace the winch with your pick-up truck in the examples. Your truck isn't a 4x4 but it can still pull a fair sized log...much more than you can move with a wheel barrow at one time...a little weight added in the bed (wood that is closer to the truck) will help your pulling traction. As for other uses for a winch...you mentioned something about having to be careful because of some muddy spots on the road...then there's the wintertime snow. ;)

Having said all of that, a wheel barrow with an 8" tire would do a good job. Most wheel barrows come with either 4.80-8 tires or 4.00-6 tires. The 8" tire will give you an extra inch of ground clearance...might not seem like much...unless you need that extra inch to clear some roots or something. Later, if you have problems with puncturing the thin wheelbarrow tire you could replace the 8" tire with a regular boat trailer tire...much more durable...you can't do that with the 6" tire.

Heed Dennis' recommendation for a cant hook. When I first got on here and started reading I took his advice on getting a cant hook and now I will not head out to cut wood without it. It's not used all of the time but when you need it YOU NEED IT!!! It really saves digging the chain into the ground and makes moving big logs to a better cutting position possible. It's also a handy pry pole when you need one.

Best wishes,
Ed
 
I bought that cart at lowes, but I will look into the can't hook as well. I have a big pry bar that usually gets a log rolled when on the ground, but its nice to have an extra option. Thanks for all the responses, some of these I have not thought of before.
 
lfunk11 said:
I bought that cart at lowes, but I will look into the can't hook as well. I have a big pry bar that usually gets a log rolled when on the ground, but its nice to have an extra option. Thanks for all the responses, some of these I have not thought of before.
Click to expand...

Which cart, the Vermont Cart?

I believe that there's an efficiency difference between a pry bar and cant hook. With the pry bar you get under the log and "push" by actually lifting and hope that it will roll. With the cant hook the hook digs into the log and actually spins or rolls the log by putting your weight against the handle and pushing (rather than lifting with your back as with the pry bar). The cant hook has a more "positive" grip on the log. I will also say the cant hook seems to require less energy to use. It can, in a pinch, be used as a pry bar also. Both are good, but to me the cant hook has definitely been worth the cost...and I already had a long digging/pry bar.

Best wishes,
Ed
 
Intheswamp said:
lfunk11 said:
I bought that cart at lowes, but I will look into the can't hook as well. I have a big pry bar that usually gets a log rolled when on the ground, but its nice to have an extra option. Thanks for all the responses, some of these I have not thought of before.
Click to expand...

Which cart, the Vermont Cart?

I believe that there's an efficiency difference between a pry bar and cant hook. With the pry bar you get under the log and "push" by actually lifting and hope that it will roll. With the cant hook the hook digs into the log and actually spins or rolls the log by putting your weight against the handle and pushing (rather than lifting with your back as with the pry bar). The cant hook has a more "positive" grip on the log. I will also say the cant hook seems to require less energy to use. It can, in a pinch, be used as a pry bar also. Both are good, but to me the cant hook has definitely been worth the cost...and I already had a long digging/pry bar.

Best wishes,
Ed
Click to expand...

I got this one

http://www.lowes.com/pd_204632-84694-DWX0865-D_4294857405_4294937087_?productId=3151577&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL;=/pl_Wheelbarrows+Carts_4294857405_4294937087_?Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1

I like being able to use it with a tractor or not. I am not sure how well the plastic will hold up, but for the price it is worth a shot. I am sure the cant hook would be a better option, but my dad gave me the pry bar so it was free. Its roughly 5' long so I can get some decent leverage on it. I have not had any issues trying to lift logs with it, but I have not had to worry about rolling many logs yet. Our property is sloped so I just cut the rounds and roll them down to the street to process. This has been my first adventure off our property for wood. I have only been through one winter with the stove so I am sure I will be addind tools each year :)
 
lfunk11 said:
I bought that cart at lowes, but I will look into the can't hook as well. I have a big pry bar that usually gets a log rolled when on the ground, but its nice to have an extra option. Thanks for all the responses, some of these I have not thought of before.
Click to expand...

As you continue to cut wood and use that cant hook you will appreciate it more and more. Good luck.
 
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