Wood Insert Dimensions

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If I remember right, the Clydesdale is adjustable in depth. If I am correct, that might explain the diagram ambiguity. Hearth depth is measured from the front of the glass.
 
BeGreen said:
If I remember right, the Clydesdale is adjustable in depth. If I am correct, that might explain the diagram ambiguity. Hearth depth is measured from the front of the glass.

It looks like it may be from where the edge of the firebox of the insert is. In the case of the clydesdale it looks like the whole bay window opens so the opening is flush with my fireplace. In the case of some of the other it looks like only the middle section of the class opens up and therefore the 18" is from the front of that glass. Does that seem right?
 
It is measured from the opening of the firedoor. The Clydesdale can be installed almost flush with the fireplace front or it can be extended out up to 4" for better convection and so that it fits in a shallower fireplace. How it is installed will determine the hearth depth.

If the hearth needs to be extended, it usually is not a deal breaker. There are options depending on the current hearth design.
 

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BeGreen said:
It is measured from the opening of the firedoor. The Clydesdale can be installed almost flush with the fireplace front or it can be extended out up to 4" for better convection and so that it fits in a shallower fireplace. How it is installed will determine the hearth depth.

Ok so if I was looking at a QuadraFire 4100 that would work with my existing 18" hearth. However, the 5100 would not correct?

If I can swing the 4100 and knock out the firebricks from the current firebox, I might have a winner.
 
bainbridgematt said:
Ok so if I was looking at a QuadraFire 4100 that would work with my existing 18" hearth. However, the 5100 would not correct?

If I can swing the 4100 and knock out the firebricks from the current firebox, I might have a winner.

When I was at this stage, I just built a cardboard model of the insert to the dimensions given in the (available online free) users manual. This was part to show the boss what it would look like, but part also to allay any fear of fit problems. Just shove that box in and see where it hits. Truth is; the insert is usually short enough that the back wall of the FP doesn't close in until it's above and out of the way. About 20" for a 4100 (IIRC)
It's easy...give it a try.

BTW, we would have wanted the 5100, but it is too big to fit our FP.
 
granpajohn said:
When I was at this stage, I just built a cardboard model of the insert to the dimensions given in the (available online free) users manual. This was part to show the boss what it would look like, but part also to allay any fear of fit problems. Just shove that box in and see where it hits. Truth is; the insert is usually short enough that the back wall of the FP doesn't close in until it's above and out of the way. About 20" for a 4100 (IIRC)
It's easy...give it a try.

BTW, we would have wanted the 5100, but it is too big to fit our FP.

Good idea on the cardbaord model. Don't know why i didn't think of that given that we do that at wok all th time. I'll have see about doing that.

I'm thinking if it doesn't fit that i will drill a hole in the fire brick and see what I've got going on behind the currently installed brick. Worst case I can patch it with motor if I determine it's a no-go right?
 
bainbridgematt said:
I'm thinking if it doesn't fit that i will drill a hole in the fire brick and see what I've got going on behind the currently installed brick. Worst case I can patch it with motor if I determine it's a no-go right?

Depending on the construction, you can get away with a lot. Since you brought it up...I used a Rutland product to repoint much of the mortar in there. I did some scratching and it was deteriorating pretty badly. Upside is: you can fix up a lot of non-structural cracks and mortar joints while you're in there.
 
granpajohn said:
Depending on the construction, you can get away with a lot. Since you brought it up...I used a Rutland product to repoint much of the mortar in there. I did some scratching and it was deteriorating pretty badly. Upside is: you can fix up a lot of non-structural cracks and mortar joints while you're in there.

Yeah, it looks like I could drill a whole and take a look behind to see the "behind the box" shape. I could then decide how to proceed. I think I'll go with the cardboard model first as it may be a moot point if the model fits :)
 
BeGreen said:
It is measured from the opening of the firedoor. The Clydesdale can be installed almost flush with the fireplace front or it can be extended out up to 4" for better convection and so that it fits in a shallower fireplace. How it is installed will determine the hearth depth.

If the hearth needs to be extended, it usually is not a deal breaker. There are options depending on the current hearth design.

The Clydesdale looks like it might be a winner for my fireplace. My fiancée likes how much viewable area there is, and it would actually fit too. Looks like I can go either fully back or extended. Is there a benefit to one or the other. You mention better convection, but how much better?

Looks like I will have to extend the hearth regardless of the insert. I thought it was 18" but it turns out that it is only 16". I know there are a few different options for extending the hearth, but I have a bit of a concern that the existing hearth may not be a high enough R value. I have no idea what they used under the tile (see picture). is there any way to test that? (BTW the cat is not a permanent fixture, but as soon as I moved the fireplace screen he had to investigate what was going on).

20110425214144225.jpg
 
If you are going with the flush mount and want the big picture look into to VC Montpelier. We really like ours.
 
bainbridgematt said:
BeGreen said:
It is measured from the opening of the firedoor. The Clydesdale can be installed almost flush with the fireplace front or it can be extended out up to 4" for better convection and so that it fits in a shallower fireplace. How it is installed will determine the hearth depth.

If the hearth needs to be extended, it usually is not a deal breaker. There are options depending on the current hearth design.

The Clydesdale looks like it might be a winner for my fireplace. My fiancée likes how much viewable area there is, and it would actually fit too. Looks like I can go either fully back or extended. Is there a benefit to one or the other. You mention better convection, but how much better?

Looks like I will have to extend the hearth regardless of the insert. I thought it was 18" but it turns out that it is only 16". I know there are a few different options for extending the hearth, but I have a bit of a concern that the existing hearth may not be a high enough R value. I have no idea what they used under the tile (see picture). is there any way to test that? (BTW the cat is not a permanent fixture, but as soon as I moved the fireplace screen he had to investigate what was going on).

Good, that is a nice heater. Considering the hearth is going to need extension, I would maximize on the convection. It will mean more time running with the fan on low or off (silent) and will let the insert perform better during a power outage. I haven't run this insert, so that would be a better question to ask Clydesdale owners. I'm curious so I will start that thread. As to the hearth insulation, I would expect the worst and be happily surprised if they did it right. The only way to find out is to pull a tile and check out the infrastructure. Though one clue might be if you thump hard on it, does it sound hollow or solid?

The next thing to measure will be the clearances to combustibles. From the picture, it looks like a mantel heat shield may be required.
 
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