Troy built?

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smokinj

Minister of Fire
Aug 11, 2008
15,980
Anderson, Indiana
Got a troy built 27 ton anyone know how much oil it takes to fill the honda motor?
 
About a 1/2 quart what I came up with. Used royal purple.
 
I would use regular (non synthetic) oil until it is broken in (if it isn't already).
 
KodiakII said:
I would use regular (non synthetic) oil until it is broken in (if it isn't already).


Oh its way past break in..Over 100 cords. Last time it was changed was by a guy thats not around now.
 
Fill to the full mark on the dip stick, when on a level spot, run it a few minutes.
Check the oil level.
If it needs some add some. Too full , dump some out.
Check oil every time before you use/start it. ;)

Like you didn't know already. (thinking with your "dipstick" ?)
Your just bragging about getting a new (to you) Troy-27Ton. LOL :lol:
Get it for a good price?
 
bogydave said:
Fill to the full mark on the dip stick, when on a level spot, run it a few minutes.
Check the oil level.
If it needs some add some. Too full , dump some out.
Check oil every time before you use/start it. ;)

Like you didn't know already. (thinking with your "dipstick" ?)
Your just bragging about getting a new (to you) Troy-27Ton. LOL :lol:
Get it for a good price?

Its not new. Really had no clue what it would hold. Bought it in 2007. I never change it myself. I was thinking the last time it was a quart but have lots of small engines, and its hard to hit the hole on this one... ;-)
 
She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.
 
mecreature said:
She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.

lol Just hope to get another good 4 years out of it. I work that thing hard.
 
I would hope it holds more than a half quart. That's like pouring a beer in there. Hardly anything.
 
Highbeam said:
I would hope it holds more than a half quart. That's like pouring a beer in there. Hardly anything.

I know seems really light. I fired it up and check it looks good. Thats about what came out to.
 
According to a manual I have for a 160cc Honga GC engine, that sounds like the right volume. The specs for mine list 0.61 qt. as capacity.
 
TreePointer said:
According to a manual I have for a 160cc Honga GC engine, that sounds like the right volume. The specs for mine list 0.61 qt. as capacity.

Thanks treepointer...I will look at the bottle see how close to that I am, but sure lets me know I am in the right ball park. I am like highbeem seems it should take a lot more to fill one.
 
smokinjay said:
TreePointer said:
According to a manual I have for a 160cc Honga GC engine, that sounds like the right volume. The specs for mine list 0.61 qt. as capacity.

Thanks treepointer...I will look at the bottle see how close to that I am, but sure lets me know I am in the right ball park. I am like highbeem seems it should take a lot more to fill one.

tons of equipment this size comes with a 20oz bottler for the first fill. the math works.
 
Anyone running a K and N filter on one of these motors? Just order one at 25 buck and never have to get another replacement seems like a much better deal than 20.00 for a one time filter.
 
Personally, I wouldn't run a K&N on anything.

Then again on a splitter it probably doesn't really matter as that's a pretty dust free application.

There's a lot of hype surrounding K&N stuff, they do allow for more air flow but they also let more dust through.

K
 
Anyone know the cross reference for the napa oil filter?

So far new NGK Iridium Spark Plug, k and n air filter (So I dont have to buy anymore) royal purple oil. What Am I missing?
 
smokinjay said:
mecreature said:
She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.

lol Just hope to get another good 4 years out of it. I work that thing hard.
Amsoil makes an oil package just for small engines. My last 3hp briggs motor was 20 years old and saw over 200 cords of wood, running Amsoil. And was still running when I sold the Supersplit to a friend who had a firewood business. Change it once a year and forget it. I got to see the proof in the pudding over 20 years. Just my opinion.
 
xclimber said:
smokinjay said:
mecreature said:
She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.

lol Just hope to get another good 4 years out of it. I work that thing hard.
Amsoil makes an oil package just for small engines. My last 3hp briggs motor was 20 years old and saw over 200 cords of wood, running Amsoil. And was still running when I sold the Supersplit to a friend who had a firewood business. Change it once a year and forget it. I got to see the proof in the pudding over 20 years. Just my opinion.

I have well over 100 on this one. I look for Amsoil local but could not find it so I went with the royal purple.

Found the cross reff oil filter is a napa 1259
 
smokinjay said:
xclimber said:
smokinjay said:
mecreature said:
She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.

lol Just hope to get another good 4 years out of it. I work that thing hard.
Amsoil makes an oil package just for small engines. My last 3hp briggs motor was 20 years old and saw over 200 cords of wood, running Amsoil. And was still running when I sold the Supersplit to a friend who had a firewood business. Change it once a year and forget it. I got to see the proof in the pudding over 20 years. Just my opinion.

I have well over 100 on this one. I look for Amsoil local but could not find it so I went with the royal purple.

Found the cross reff oil filter is a napa 1259
That's still good. Putting in good oil will show you the difference done the road. Especially in a non pressurized oil system, an oil slinger just throws the oil up .
 
Thats what I was thinking best I could get around here. The filter for another cross referance is a Purolator H32010
or napa 1259
 
smokinjay said:
Thats what I was thinking best I could get around here. The filter for another cross referance is a Purolator H32010
or napa 1259
OK, good luck.
 
I think you are overthinking it. Change the oil to synthetic if you must, but in reality it's a single cylinder pushing low RPMs.......any modern oil will do for 50hr intervals. Synthetic costs more than decent dino oil changed
more often. On a carbureted single, you'll probably get more fuel in the oil than you would an EFI car, not sure I would just change it once in spring and once in fall for good measure.
K&N filters are hype-marketing at it's finest. I prefer to use paper filters instead of oily cotton rags inside a wire mesh but to each his own. I am not sure they make it for this application.

To the guy that says non-pressurized: Not any OHV honda engine that I know of. They all have pressurized systems except on the cheapest 3.5hp (Ooop 5.0 TORQUE rated) engines nowadays.
Oil slingers went away with floppy disks and cassette tapes.

Also if IRC, Honda stamps the capacity of their engines on the block somewhere near the filler cap. I use a measuring cup called a ratio-rite to measure out exactly
that amount and it makes it easy. I think I got that ratio-rite thing at a motorcycle shop somewhere for $5.00. Works good for making pre-mix, and fork oil measurements
 
jlove1974 said:
I think you are overthinking it. Change the oil to synthetic if you must, but in reality it's a single cylinder pushing low RPMs.......any modern oil will do for 50hr intervals. Synthetic costs more than decent dino oil changed
more often. On a carbureted single, you'll probably get more fuel in the oil than you would an EFI car, not sure I would just change it once in spring and once in fall for good measure.
K&N filters are hype-marketing at it's finest. I prefer to use paper filters instead of oily cotton rags inside a wire mesh but to each his own. I am not sure they make it for this application.

To the guy that says non-pressurized: Not any OHV honda engine that I know of. They all have pressurized systems except on the cheapest 3.5hp (Ooop 5.0 TORQUE rated) engines nowadays.
Oil slingers went away with floppy disks and cassette tapes.

Also if IRC, Honda stamps the capacity of their engines on the block somewhere near the filler cap. I use a measuring cup called a ratio-rite to measure out exactly
that amount and it makes it easy. I think I got that ratio-rite thing at a motorcycle shop somewhere for $5.00. Works good for making pre-mix, and fork oil measurements

quart of oil every year 8 bucks....25.00 Filter life time on that. Not sure it will ever pay off but its easy to clean and already paid for. Last year was very dry around here and bought 2 of them 12.99 a piece. For me just makes sense. Not looking for the HP Hype just cheep easy to clean filter. Running 35+ cords a year with this splitter, so changing air filter 2 times a year probably not even enough. Maybe even need to change the oil more often but I don't seem to so that's the reason for synthetic . We are feeding 2 wood furnaces and 2 inserts with this one splitter. Probably get some hi octane gas at the same time the JD gets a tank for the mowing season.
 
jlove1974 said:
I think you are overthinking it. Change the oil to synthetic if you must, but in reality it's a single cylinder pushing low RPMs.......any modern oil will do for 50hr intervals. Synthetic costs more than decent dino oil changed
more often. On a carbureted single, you'll probably get more fuel in the oil than you would an EFI car, not sure I would just change it once in spring and once in fall for good measure.
K&N filters are hype-marketing at it's finest. I prefer to use paper filters instead of oily cotton rags inside a wire mesh but to each his own. I am not sure they make it for this application.

To the guy that says non-pressurized: Not any OHV honda engine that I know of. They all have pressurized systems except on the cheapest 3.5hp (Ooop 5.0 TORQUE rated) engines nowadays.
Oil slingers went away with floppy disks and cassette tapes.

Also if IRC, Honda stamps the capacity of their engines on the block somewhere near the filler cap. I use a measuring cup called a ratio-rite to measure out exactly
that amount and it makes it easy. I think I got that ratio-rite thing at a motorcycle shop somewhere for $5.00. Works good for making pre-mix, and fork oil measurements
Pressurized or not, I was simply trying to tell Jay to use the best oil he can, that's all nothing technical. Not mentioning an oil filter I guess I assumed it to be non pressurized.
 
xclimber said:
jlove1974 said:
I think you are overthinking it. Change the oil to synthetic if you must, but in reality it's a single cylinder pushing low RPMs.......any modern oil will do for 50hr intervals. Synthetic costs more than decent dino oil changed
more often. On a carbureted single, you'll probably get more fuel in the oil than you would an EFI car, not sure I would just change it once in spring and once in fall for good measure.
K&N filters are hype-marketing at it's finest. I prefer to use paper filters instead of oily cotton rags inside a wire mesh but to each his own. I am not sure they make it for this application.

To the guy that says non-pressurized: Not any OHV honda engine that I know of. They all have pressurized systems except on the cheapest 3.5hp (Ooop 5.0 TORQUE rated) engines nowadays.
Oil slingers went away with floppy disks and cassette tapes.

Also if IRC, Honda stamps the capacity of their engines on the block somewhere near the filler cap. I use a measuring cup called a ratio-rite to measure out exactly
that amount and it makes it easy. I think I got that ratio-rite thing at a motorcycle shop somewhere for $5.00. Works good for making pre-mix, and fork oil measurements
Pressurized or not, I was simply trying to tell Jay to use the best oil he can, that's all nothing technical. Not mentioning an oil filter I guess I assumed it to be non pressurized.

Yea I got it...No real rocket building going on just trying to get the most out of it I can. I also have a back-up honda 160 that I hope I never need.....Darn sure know I cant buy another one.
 
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