Double Bit Axe

Depends on what kind of finish you are looking for. Some steel wool dipped in oil should do the trick. You can go for a mirror finish with polishing disc and compound, however if you want the pits out, sanding/grinding might be required.

For working tools depending on if there's any pitting,I just use a fine to medium wire brush with 1/4" shank in a drill press or regular drill.Heavier pitting might take a slightly coarser wheel or bit more time.6" or 8" one on a bench grinder works good too.Dont forget your safety glasses or clear faceshield.
Clean up all the surface rust,wipe it down with light oil or WD-40. I dont like using sandpaper or emery cloth,even as fine as 600 on old steel,it makes it too "shiny" & you lose that great dark patina.

The handle isnt much different,depending on if they're any original varnish or lacquer left,I'll scuff sand it with 220 or so,give a new coat of marine spar varnish.If the old finish is totally gone,220 sand & rub in danish oil followed by mixture of beeswax & carnuaba waxes.

Do what I do and go chop an bunch of wood. Takes the rust right off it.

mayhem said:

Do what I do and go chop an bunch of wood. Takes the rust right off it.

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Yup. Exactly what I was thinking. If it's just for display- go cut with it anyway, then coat with protective oil (not WD40).

make sure to rub the handle with a wood sealer(not the new varnish or paint stuff, but old timey technology like bees wax or parafin sealer) before choppin to give the handle a worn/used look. then tell people how its 100+ years old and was involved in building many homes localy and is a priceless peice of history- but never stop using it as a tool, thats when it will loose its soul and perish (or smething like that)

I would just use sand paper for all of it. No different than a car the way I see it.

I'd take the head to the recycle facility and burn the handle. Rick

smokinjay said:

I would just use sand paper for all of it. No different than a car the way I see it.

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You clean your car with sandpaper? Or did I misunderstand?

moosetrek said:

smokinjay said:

I would just use sand paper for all of it. No different than a car the way I see it.

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You clean your car with sandpaper? Or did I misunderstand?

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Reminds me of a guy I worked with who made a convertible out of an '86 Mustang with a sawzall. :lol:

moosetrek said:

smokinjay said:

I would just use sand paper for all of it. No different than a car the way I see it.

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You clean your car with sandpaper? Or did I misunderstand?

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Rusty car, if I was going to redo it yes its going to be sanded and or ground down.

Thistle said:

moosetrek said:

smokinjay said:

I would just use sand paper for all of it. No different than a car the way I see it.

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You clean your car with sandpaper? Or did I misunderstand?

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Reminds me of a guy I worked with who made a convertible out of an '86 Mustang with a sawzall. :lol:

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Really you got that from a piece of sand paper! lol I have sand paper 3m up to 1500 grit.

Let's see some nice, clear closeup photos first. What you should do depends entirely on the condition it is in now. There are ways to use a DC power source to electrolytically remove the surface rust and actually plate it back onto the tool. Or maybe all you need is some of SJ's 1500 grit.

Re-attach the head, fit and drive in your wedges, then soak the head in boiled linseed for a few days and it will stay tight even if you forget and leave it out the rain overnight.

When you are done, clean it up and get some camellia oil from a woodworking supply house and coat the steel with it. Best stuff for old tools and Samurai swords.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/camelliaoil100ml.aspx

smokinjay said:

Thistle said:

moosetrek said:

smokinjay said:

I would just use sand paper for all of it. No different than a car the way I see it.

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You clean your car with sandpaper? Or did I misunderstand?

Click to expand...

Reminds me of a guy I worked with who made a convertible out of an '86 Mustang with a sawzall. :lol:

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Really you got that from a piece of sand paper! lol I have sand paper 3m up to 1500 grit.

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LOL sorry Jay,I just seen the other guy's comment & thought it was funny. ;-) I know you're a good artisan, we've all seen the results of your talents.

Thistle said:

smokinjay said:

Thistle said:

moosetrek said:

smokinjay said:

I would just use sand paper for all of it. No different than a car the way I see it.

Click to expand...

You clean your car with sandpaper? Or did I misunderstand?

Click to expand...

Reminds me of a guy I worked with who made a convertible out of an '86 Mustang with a sawzall. :lol:

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Really you got that from a piece of sand paper! lol I have sand paper 3m up to 1500 grit.

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LOL sorry Jay,I just seen the other guy's comment & thought it was funny. ;-) I know you're a good artisan, we've all seen the results of your talents.

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No big deal just cant see redoing any metal with out some sandpaper. Really anything for that matter....Sand paper/sander and grinder I have every size coarseness's and grit make (counting compounds up 3000grit). Hell I bet I could high polish a windshield with tha 3m 1500 grit. :cheese:

Got a few that looks just like that....Two in my truck box and a couple more in the shop. I want to build a nice target and learn to throw axs for the fun of it.

True Temper VULCAN Kelly Works. Good maker.Factory at one time was in Charleston,WV.Also made ball pein & cross pein hammers of varying weights plus sledgehammers for blacksmiths,stonemasons & other trades. After WW II became part of American Fork & Hoe,which made heavy duty shovels & related items.

zapny said:

Thistle said:

True Temper VULCAN Kelly Works. Good maker.Factory at one time was in Charleston,WV.Also made ball pein & cross pein hammers of varying weights plus sledgehammers for blacksmiths,stonemasons & other trades. After WW II became part of American Fork & Hoe,which made heavy duty shovels & related items.

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http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears Tools/American Fork & Hoe Co..html



Zap

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Link not working

I was wrong,Kelly Axe works was taken over in 1930,not after WW 2.I have a US 1945 hatchet from a GI's pack with original handle stamped American Fork & Hoe.

http://www.yesteryearstools.com

Thistle said:

True Temper VULCAN Kelly Works. Good maker.Factory at one time was in Charleston,WV.Also made ball pein & cross pein hammers of varying weights plus sledgehammers for blacksmiths,stonemasons & other trades. After WW II became part of American Fork & Hoe,which made heavy duty shovels & related items.

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600 grit seems a little on the conservative side..lol

The handle looks really dry... Is it solid? The rust could be removed by soaking it in phosphoric acid. This is a mild product and water soluble, a 12-16 hour soak will eat all the rust down to bare metal. I use this to treat rusty car parts and it works great. The next step would be to sand it with fine sand paper as others have said, then oil it. As for the wood I like to install new handles, but that can be a challenge....

smokinjay said:

Thistle said:

True Temper VULCAN Kelly Works. Good maker.Factory at one time was in Charleston,WV.Also made ball pein & cross pein hammers of varying weights plus sledgehammers for blacksmiths,stonemasons & other trades. After WW II became part of American Fork & Hoe,which made heavy duty shovels & related items.

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600 grit seems a little on the conservative side..lol

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Gimme medium wire wheel,10000 RPM minigrinder,dust mask 15 minutes & I'll have that be glowing a dark maroon/brown color once again :coolgrin: