So the old Wild Thing is starting to act up. It won't idle if nosed down, and it runs weak when on it's side. She's old and likely jealous of the new addition 359, but I would like to keep her around and functional. Any suggestions of maintenance points to check?
Dying saw?
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smokinj
Minister of Fire
Yeah what Jay said, also IF you are capable you could disassemble the carburetor and gently clean. Dump the old gas out, start fresh! Maybe put in a new spark plug. I have noticed that saws almost never need spark plugs. It pays to mix fuel in small amounts, and mix accurately. Keep your air cleaner clean.
If I'm not mistaken, the "Wild Thing" doesn't have a plated cylinder. If the fuel system tune up doesn't correct the problem, you might want to check the compression.
DanCorcoran
Minister of Fire
For rough running, I always start with cleaning the air filter and changing the fuel filter (if it hasn't been changed recently). They're cheap and about the easiest thing to replace.
all the basics as above.
If it acts differently when tilted side to side it could be a simple as leak in a fuel pickup, or fuel film building up in the crankcase because of tuned too rich.
Or, it could be an air leak at a crank seal. not so good, but can be fixed externally I think. I have never done a WT seals.
I would do the fresh fuel, new lines, filter, carb cleaning and good tune. If it still changes with tilting then pressure vac test the crankcase, which is topic for another time.
May not be economically worth fixing, but there are some people doing wild stuff to wild things just for fun on arboristsite.
I bought one for $25 just to play with. Modify the muffler with a front right outlet, close off the rear (against engine) outlet, and retune the carb. and a 14 inch bar and good chain. acts like a whole new saw.
Still hard starting when hot, but it picked up a couple thousand rpm, response is much better, and actdually cuts well. at least as long as my hands can take the vibes.
Only so much you can polish a turd,. but they are a fun challenge. Like Pinto racing in the older days.
and, a good learning saw for some basic work. Not out much it it fries, as it is not working so great now. thus, give it a try.
If it acts differently when tilted side to side it could be a simple as leak in a fuel pickup, or fuel film building up in the crankcase because of tuned too rich.
Or, it could be an air leak at a crank seal. not so good, but can be fixed externally I think. I have never done a WT seals.
I would do the fresh fuel, new lines, filter, carb cleaning and good tune. If it still changes with tilting then pressure vac test the crankcase, which is topic for another time.
May not be economically worth fixing, but there are some people doing wild stuff to wild things just for fun on arboristsite.
I bought one for $25 just to play with. Modify the muffler with a front right outlet, close off the rear (against engine) outlet, and retune the carb. and a 14 inch bar and good chain. acts like a whole new saw.
Still hard starting when hot, but it picked up a couple thousand rpm, response is much better, and actdually cuts well. at least as long as my hands can take the vibes.
Only so much you can polish a turd,. but they are a fun challenge. Like Pinto racing in the older days.
and, a good learning saw for some basic work. Not out much it it fries, as it is not working so great now. thus, give it a try.
loganj01 said:
Funny about that, even Mike Acres' site says my Poulan 3400 has plated piston & plain aluminum bore. It's survived 30-some years, and the bore still looks shiny and plated. Which is to beg the question: which saw engine actually has a plain aluminum bore? And has lasted more than a few hours. Didn't think so.
Don't confuse chrome-plated with "nickasil."
If the engine starts, compression is not the big issue. Getting an accurate compression figure is itself a challenge.
Many Poulan saws came with plastic fuel lines that became embrittled from exposure to gasoline, sending some debris on to the carb. DAMHIKT.
Changing fuel lines & quickie carb rebuild generally handles it. (Filter screen right next to fuel pump in carb is easily clogged.) Might want to draw a map of the fuel lines before removing the oldies.
mayhem
Minister of Fire
Before yo bother investing anything, pull the muffler off and see what kind of shape the piston is in. If its scored or pitted, the compression is on its way down over time and its not going to be worth repairing. It'll still run somewhat, but you'll notice it gets harder and harder to start, keep running and use as a productive piece of equipment.
I just went through this a few months ago with my 98 Craftsman 42cc 18" saw (a wild thing with a different case). Piston was pitted and it was acting badly...replaced it with a Husky 359 and not looking back.
I just went through this a few months ago with my 98 Craftsman 42cc 18" saw (a wild thing with a different case). Piston was pitted and it was acting badly...replaced it with a Husky 359 and not looking back.
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