Skip tooth on a chain

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ampamp

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 31, 2010
91
Buffalo - Rochester
So is the point of a skip tooth (if i have the terminology correct) on a chain to allow wood to be removed easier......since they're on larger saws with bigger cc's? I'm guessing if you run normal cutters on a super fast saw, there might be some type of diminishing returns.

just tring to get my head aruond the gauge and pitch. and when i was asking questions in other posts....this came up since i was considering going to a bigger saw.
 
Skip tooth is used to gain rpm's. So if you have a 70cc saw with a 32 inch bar you will need a skip tooth to keep your rpm's up....If it was a 20 inch bar on the same saw it would cut faster with a non skip now it has the power to keep the rpms up and the more teeth makes it faster.

Your just matching number of cutters to your horse power!
 
Also helps with removing chips from the cut. I could prolly run a full comp chain on my 7900, powerwise. Not so sure how it would work buried nuts deep in a 4' log though. You're pulling a lot of chips from one end of the cut out. More space between the cutters gives those chips someplace to ride. And fewer cutters keeps the rpm's up ;-)
 
jeff_t said:
Also helps with removing chips from the cut. I could prolly run a full comp chain on my 7900, powerwise. Not so sure how it would work buried nuts deep in a 4' log though. You're pulling a lot of chips from one end of the cut out. More space between the cutters gives those chips someplace to ride. And fewer cutters keeps the rpm's up ;-)

That would be long bar not enough horse power. 880 would chug through with a 47 inch bar full comp 9000 rpm's. :cheese:
 
smokinjay said:
jeff_t said:
Also helps with removing chips from the cut. I could prolly run a full comp chain on my 7900, powerwise. Not so sure how it would work buried nuts deep in a 4' log though. You're pulling a lot of chips from one end of the cut out. More space between the cutters gives those chips someplace to ride. And fewer cutters keeps the rpm's up ;-)

That would be long bar not enough horse power. 880 would chug through with a 47 inch bar full comp 9000 rpm's. :cheese:

Yah, I don't think a 28" full comp would be too much for an 80cc saw. I think it's more about chip removal. I'll probably try it someday.
 
jeff_t said:
smokinjay said:
jeff_t said:
Also helps with removing chips from the cut. I could prolly run a full comp chain on my 7900, powerwise. Not so sure how it would work buried nuts deep in a 4' log though. You're pulling a lot of chips from one end of the cut out. More space between the cutters gives those chips someplace to ride. And fewer cutters keeps the rpm's up ;-)

That would be long bar not enough horse power. 880 would chug through with a 47 inch bar full comp 9000 rpm's. :cheese:

Yah, I don't think a 28" full comp would be too much for an 80cc saw. I think it's more about chip removal. I'll probably try it someday.


7900 will rock a full comp 28 inch. 32 is where it will be better with at least a simi skip. Dirty wood though skip is a good way to go. :lol:
 
amp said:
So is the point of a skip tooth (if i have the terminology correct) on a chain to allow wood to be removed easier......since they're on larger saws with bigger cc's? I'm guessing if you run normal cutters on a super fast saw, there might be some type of diminishing returns.

just tring to get my head aruond the gauge and pitch. and when i was asking questions in other posts....this came up since i was considering going to a bigger saw.

To answer your question, I dunno.

I can tell you that I use skip tooth chains on my 20"-barred 290 because it SEEMS to ME that they cut just as fast as a full comp chain, so, same cutting speed + half the teeth to file = me never using full comp chains again.
 
Bigg_Redd said:
amp said:
So is the point of a skip tooth (if i have the terminology correct) on a chain to allow wood to be removed easier......since they're on larger saws with bigger cc's? I'm guessing if you run normal cutters on a super fast saw, there might be some type of diminishing returns.

just tring to get my head aruond the gauge and pitch. and when i was asking questions in other posts....this came up since i was considering going to a bigger saw.

To answer your question, I dunno.

I can tell you that I use skip tooth chains on my 20"-barred 290 because it SEEMS to ME that they cut just as fast as a full comp chain, so, same cutting speed + half the teeth to file = me never using full comp chains again.

You get that 70cc saw and 24 inch bar in softwood full comp. you just may change a little! :coolgrin:
 
smokinjay said:
Bigg_Redd said:
amp said:
So is the point of a skip tooth (if i have the terminology correct) on a chain to allow wood to be removed easier......since they're on larger saws with bigger cc's? I'm guessing if you run normal cutters on a super fast saw, there might be some type of diminishing returns.

just tring to get my head aruond the gauge and pitch. and when i was asking questions in other posts....this came up since i was considering going to a bigger saw.

To answer your question, I dunno.

I can tell you that I use skip tooth chains on my 20"-barred 290 because it SEEMS to ME that they cut just as fast as a full comp chain, so, same cutting speed + half the teeth to file = me never using full comp chains again.

You get that 70cc saw and 24 inch bar in softwood full comp. you just may change a little! :coolgrin:

Eff that ess. I'm never buying another full comp chain as long as I live.
 
smokinjay said:
Bigg_Redd said:
amp said:
So is the point of a skip tooth (if i have the terminology correct) on a chain to allow wood to be removed easier......since they're on larger saws with bigger cc's? I'm guessing if you run normal cutters on a super fast saw, there might be some type of diminishing returns.

just tring to get my head aruond the gauge and pitch. and when i was asking questions in other posts....this came up since i was considering going to a bigger saw.

To answer your question, I dunno.

I can tell you that I use skip tooth chains on my 20"-barred 290 because it SEEMS to ME that they cut just as fast as a full comp chain, so, same cutting speed + half the teeth to file = me never using full comp chains again.

You get that 70cc saw and 24 inch bar in softwood full comp. you just may change a little! :coolgrin:

That's what I run - and man is it sweet to watch it work!
 
moosetrek said:
smokinjay said:
Bigg_Redd said:
amp said:
So is the point of a skip tooth (if i have the terminology correct) on a chain to allow wood to be removed easier......since they're on larger saws with bigger cc's? I'm guessing if you run normal cutters on a super fast saw, there might be some type of diminishing returns.

just tring to get my head aruond the gauge and pitch. and when i was asking questions in other posts....this came up since i was considering going to a bigger saw.

To answer your question, I dunno.

I can tell you that I use skip tooth chains on my 20"-barred 290 because it SEEMS to ME that they cut just as fast as a full comp chain, so, same cutting speed + half the teeth to file = me never using full comp chains again.

You get that 70cc saw and 24 inch bar in softwood full comp. you just may change a little! :coolgrin:

That's what I run - and man is it sweet to watch it work!

Once you bury your boots in chips in a couple seconds your hooked! :coolhmm:
 
I thought it was roughly analogous to a framing blade versus a trim blade on a circular saw. A bigger chip is removed. I personally think skip chain is the way to go. It seems to me to cut faster and pulls better through a cut. I am not buying any more regular chain (or Oregon chain). Unfortunately it is not available in the .325 pitch chain size. It seems like a lot fo people that run a chain saw for a living use full skip saw chain.
 
MarkinNC said:
I thought it was roughly analogous to a framing blade versus a trim blade on a circular saw.

That's pretty much it.You wont want to use a 60 or 80 tooth trim blade on your table saw to rip 3" thick hardwoods or green treated southern yellow pine either.Even if you have 5HP 3PH behemoth of a saw.12,20 or 24 tooth flat top grind ripping blade cuts faster,uses less power & helps clear the massive amount of shavings.
 
smokinjay said:
Your just matching number of cutters to your horse power!
Alright Sir, what length bars would be a good match for a semi-skip chain and a skip chain on my 460?
 
Woody Stover said:
smokinjay said:
Your just matching number of cutters to your horse power!
Alright Sir, what length bars would be a good match for a semi-skip chain and a skip chain on my 460?

My Favorite saw! :cheese: Both...lol I have 20,28,32........20 inch if always full comp. 28 (my favorite) I have 1/2 skip for dirty wood and oak (less cutter's to keep sharp Bigredd set-up) full comp for clean wood. 32 is a full skip only!
 
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