Hello everybody, I need some help. I have an old Hearthstone II stove and am trying to keep it going forever. Today I pull open the front doors and the handle fell into my hand, seams like that casting cracked. Does anybody now where I can get two new handles quick? it's getting cold.
hearthstone II
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annette
Member
My best answer is: whether it's steel or cast iron, it can be welded. Phone welding shops or technical schools that teach welding. If it's steel, you can ask almost anyone--including larger theaters, hobbyists or crazy artists. If it's cast iron, it may be harder to find someone. I think it can only be done with stick-welding, and is a bit tricky. Lincolnelectric.com offers extensive advice for welding cast iron.
If the handles unbolt from the stove it will be easier for you to travel with them, but if not, the doors should also be removeable from the unit. If the doors have glass, it should be removed in case the welding heats things up too much. Does anyone on here think a quick welding fix of a broken handle would heat the door up enough to warp it? I doubt it, but if there are any metallurgists on here who feel differently...
If the handles unbolt from the stove it will be easier for you to travel with them, but if not, the doors should also be removeable from the unit. If the doors have glass, it should be removed in case the welding heats things up too much. Does anyone on here think a quick welding fix of a broken handle would heat the door up enough to warp it? I doubt it, but if there are any metallurgists on here who feel differently...
Roospike
New Member
Welding and Fabrications is what i do , i own by own biz. Is it the handle what is broke or the door where the handle attaches to ? If your broken part is steel it can be fixed very easy , if not worth fixing then it can be remade . Normal welding shop cost are $50.- $75. an hour to fix/fabrication of items , up to $150-$175 an hours for moble service to come to you. I dont think you would want moble . If your part that needs fixed is cast then YES It will need to be stick welded . I too would take out the glass before being fixed . Stich welding will keep the door cool and will not warp. When welding Cast steel the steel need to be heated slow up to XXX temp - welded and then very slow cooling down time . We use an heat oven to cool cast parts and turn the temp down a little at a time. If you have any more question , shout . Best of luck . Roospikeannette said:
carpniels
Minister of Fire
Hi Dylan,
I have the exact same Hearthstone II. I have 4 identical knobs too, they all take the same 'key' to open.
Sorry to hear it broke, but I bet a good welder will be able to help you out quickly. But for the aestatics, I would order a new one from Hearthstone or your local dealer. I do not know if they still sell them though.
(I ordered a new inside baffle since the old one melted and sagged through overfiring and melting. The new one does not have the holes in the middle of the baffle anymore, it is one piece of steel. Lots of work, but hopefully worth it).
Good Luck
Carpniels
I have the exact same Hearthstone II. I have 4 identical knobs too, they all take the same 'key' to open.
Sorry to hear it broke, but I bet a good welder will be able to help you out quickly. But for the aestatics, I would order a new one from Hearthstone or your local dealer. I do not know if they still sell them though.
(I ordered a new inside baffle since the old one melted and sagged through overfiring and melting. The new one does not have the holes in the middle of the baffle anymore, it is one piece of steel. Lots of work, but hopefully worth it).
Good Luck
Carpniels
carpniels
Minister of Fire
Hi Dylan,
Sorry for the misunderstanding. Since you posted twice, I thought it was your tread.
Yes, I can see what you mean. On ebay they go for 700 to 1500. I bought mine locally from a guys whose wife didn't want it in the house. Got a great deal.
Yes, the shielding inside the stove (curved metal plate inside) is what melted and burnt through. The new one was $130 and does not have any holes in it anymore. Comes with the screws.
I also got a stick of the brown enamel paint. Will at least hide the rust, it will never make it look good, only better.
I also noticed that the ashtray in the bottom had a hole in it, that they 'fixed' by riveting another piece of metal under it. Does the job but not pretty. Do you have that problem too?
Let me know if you are really serious about revamping the H II. I can give you some tips from my experience so far.
Carpniels
Sorry for the misunderstanding. Since you posted twice, I thought it was your tread.
Yes, I can see what you mean. On ebay they go for 700 to 1500. I bought mine locally from a guys whose wife didn't want it in the house. Got a great deal.
Yes, the shielding inside the stove (curved metal plate inside) is what melted and burnt through. The new one was $130 and does not have any holes in it anymore. Comes with the screws.
I also got a stick of the brown enamel paint. Will at least hide the rust, it will never make it look good, only better.
I also noticed that the ashtray in the bottom had a hole in it, that they 'fixed' by riveting another piece of metal under it. Does the job but not pretty. Do you have that problem too?
Let me know if you are really serious about revamping the H II. I can give you some tips from my experience so far.
Carpniels
Hey guys, thanks for all you help, I later found out I have the H1. I was able to get new handles from Hearthstone. Now the problem is the shims that came with them are to small. I'm going to try the hardware store today. Jim at Hearthstone has been very helpful. I also got a new gasket set. Buy the way, whats a H1 worth these days?
carpniels
Minister of Fire
Hi Bigtyme,
There was one for sale on Ebay a few days ago that went for 1500 +. Lots of cash for such a big monster. Especially because it is NOT EPA approved.
Carpniels
There was one for sale on Ebay a few days ago that went for 1500 +. Lots of cash for such a big monster. Especially because it is NOT EPA approved.
Carpniels
hey everyone
i just bought a hearthstone II. just wondering how you people that use it like it. is it a creosote maker? is that air tube in the back a after burner to run cleaner? how long a burn can you get with this stove? i bought it for 2 hundred. all i have to do is replace the back panel in the fire box because it has a hole where it looks like there was a H. the rest of the stove looks great. no cracks. looks almost brand new from the outside.
i just bought a hearthstone II. just wondering how you people that use it like it. is it a creosote maker? is that air tube in the back a after burner to run cleaner? how long a burn can you get with this stove? i bought it for 2 hundred. all i have to do is replace the back panel in the fire box because it has a hole where it looks like there was a H. the rest of the stove looks great. no cracks. looks almost brand new from the outside.
carpniels
Minister of Fire
Hi fbelec,
You got a Hearthstone II for $200? Please, put it on Ebay and make a killing. Those things go for a lot more that that
Anyway, I assume you do not have the manual? Otherwise you would have known what the air tube was for. It is indeed an 'afterburner' or secondary burn tube. NEVER close this off with that 'cap' that is near it.
THe back panel in the firebox: is that at the opposite side of the side door? If so, it is there only to prevent you from hitting the soapstone panel when you put extra wood in there. If it is the curved metal in the firebox, that is the baffle that brings the flames and gasses forward so the air valve has any effect. That cost $130 (I jsut bought one). The old ones had holes in them and the new ones are solid. Don't know why?
If you want a copy of the manual, I can make one and send it to you in PDF. Let me know.
Carpniels
You got a Hearthstone II for $200? Please, put it on Ebay and make a killing. Those things go for a lot more that that
Anyway, I assume you do not have the manual? Otherwise you would have known what the air tube was for. It is indeed an 'afterburner' or secondary burn tube. NEVER close this off with that 'cap' that is near it.
THe back panel in the firebox: is that at the opposite side of the side door? If so, it is there only to prevent you from hitting the soapstone panel when you put extra wood in there. If it is the curved metal in the firebox, that is the baffle that brings the flames and gasses forward so the air valve has any effect. That cost $130 (I jsut bought one). The old ones had holes in them and the new ones are solid. Don't know why?
If you want a copy of the manual, I can make one and send it to you in PDF. Let me know.
Carpniels
I can tell you I love this stove once it get hot it keeps the whole house 72,73 degrees no problem. Sometimes it's a bit to hot. I have been looking at another Hearthstone and plan on getting one before next season. Look for mine on ebay next.Dylan said:
hey Carpniels
yes i could use a copy of the manual. i don't know if the manual has a break down but if you have a break down that would be great. i have to replace the back curved panel because of a hole in it.
i figure i try to rebuild what i can on the unit before i fire it up.
thanks
frank
yes i could use a copy of the manual. i don't know if the manual has a break down but if you have a break down that would be great. i have to replace the back curved panel because of a hole in it.
i figure i try to rebuild what i can on the unit before i fire it up.
thanks
frank
carpniels
Minister of Fire
Hi fbelec.
No, it does not have a breakdown. I will scan the manual and send it to you. Give me a little time.
Carpniels
No, it does not have a breakdown. I will scan the manual and send it to you. Give me a little time.
Carpniels
carpniels said:
boy am I glad I found this forum.....
First season on free heat for us. The home came with a HearthStone II stove, but no manual and by the sounds of it (have been using it with the pipe capped off) I need to read through it...LOL
Can someone post a link to the manual or IM, email it to me as well? Thanks in advance...looking forward to learning all the wood burning tricks...
looks like I need that manual more than I thought.... hope it includes an exploded view of the unit with correct terminology of all the parts
hey fr
glad to help. i got a manual from hearthstone. what that doesn't tell you i asked hearthstone.
and what jim the woodtech at hearthstone said is to burn it hot. he said above 450 stone temp. but don't run it over 650. if you run it up that high you go thru lots and lots of wood. 500 seems to be ok and the secondary will run great at that temp. smokeless at the chimney. when i cleaned my chimney i didn't see anything come down as i pulled the rope down with the brush on it. good stove for it's age just don't expect allnight burns out of it.
btw what did you mean by running it with the pipe capped off?
did you mean the secondary air control on the right side back?
if so you are suppose to run it open all the time.
glad to help. i got a manual from hearthstone. what that doesn't tell you i asked hearthstone.
and what jim the woodtech at hearthstone said is to burn it hot. he said above 450 stone temp. but don't run it over 650. if you run it up that high you go thru lots and lots of wood. 500 seems to be ok and the secondary will run great at that temp. smokeless at the chimney. when i cleaned my chimney i didn't see anything come down as i pulled the rope down with the brush on it. good stove for it's age just don't expect allnight burns out of it.
btw what did you mean by running it with the pipe capped off?
did you mean the secondary air control on the right side back?
if so you are suppose to run it open all the time.
thanks for the additional info.
I will have to take some temp readings of the actual stone, but I usually run the stovepipe around 400 for first 20 min and then back it down to about 200-250.
In my previous post I was reffering to the primary air inlet.... I kept it closed to slow down the burn. ??
The secondary air inlet (one on right side wall of the stove is always open).
Other than that the stove has been awsome... the soapstone really does hold heat for hours....
One thing I noticed is that there are some cracks in the stone, both side walls and the front stone under the glass door... is this something I should be concerened about? (something tells me that I should, but what do I know?lol)
I will have to take some temp readings of the actual stone, but I usually run the stovepipe around 400 for first 20 min and then back it down to about 200-250.
In my previous post I was reffering to the primary air inlet.... I kept it closed to slow down the burn. ??
The secondary air inlet (one on right side wall of the stove is always open).
Other than that the stove has been awsome... the soapstone really does hold heat for hours....
One thing I noticed is that there are some cracks in the stone, both side walls and the front stone under the glass door... is this something I should be concerened about? (something tells me that I should, but what do I know?lol)
Hello FR,
On the cracks in soapstone..I think in the manual(mansfield it does) it states that surface cracks are ok but if deeper than that you should change out becuase it could cause serious heat and possible overfire..
On the cracks in soapstone..I think in the manual(mansfield it does) it states that surface cracks are ok but if deeper than that you should change out becuase it could cause serious heat and possible overfire..
yes, they're just surface cracks...I won't worry about it too much for now..
I checked the operating temps (of the stone) and I'm right on the money.... 400-475 and can get it up to that range within 20-30 min.....
I checked the operating temps (of the stone) and I'm right on the money.... 400-475 and can get it up to that range within 20-30 min.....
hey fr
i hope your talking about double wall stove pipe. if not that is way to cool and you'll creosote up that pipe and chimney. and then a nice chimney fire to follow
i hope your talking about double wall stove pipe. if not that is way to cool and you'll creosote up that pipe and chimney. and then a nice chimney fire to follow
I hope so too... I don't know what it is, but unless I leave the front door open for serious draft, there's no way to keep the pipe temp above 250 during normal operation????? what should I look for to id the type of stove pipe I have?? any way of checking without actually taking things apart?? I might clean the chimney and pipe this weekend, as I don't know when it was done last, JIC.... Thank you for the input btw... I really appreciate it 
since i don't run double wall and don't have any experience with it maybe someone else could help
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