Water to air, what I need to think about?

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Ugly

New Member
Jan 22, 2009
77
Central Ontario Canada
So... I bought yet another house that was abutting my other houses and I'm currently working on it and getting it ready to rent. I've already replaced the electric hot water heater with an oil fired hot water heater because it needed to be done and I only had oil and propane spares in the garage and no electric. As the house has an up to date oil tank and no propane the choice was easy. More "mo" and less "eenie meenie minie".

I just finished an assessment of the heating system and it's positives and negatives. The main positive is; functional, cleanly laid out duct work. The main negative is a 1973 oil furnace with more holes in it than I can readily describe. The one house I bought two years ago has an outdoor boiler that works well enough and is only about a 60 foot run to the new house. It's oversize for the application and initially that annoyed me but now I see it in a different light.

Here's what I was thinking... leave the current duct work in place, gut the low boy oil furnace cabinet of everything and just install a high efficiency variable speed blower and a water to air exchanger inside the existing furnace cabinet. In this scenario, the 105,000 BTU oil fired hot water heater can be used as back up. I was thinking just add a small 200 gallon water storage to supplement the 400 on the loop already (at the other house). After heat loss calcs for worst case Ontario winters the boiler is still a bit large but nothing like it was with only the one house. I can't add more storage, there is just no room and a little is better than none at all.

So my question to the community at large;
Do you foresee any problems with just gutting the oil furnace and replacing it with the above described?
Is there a reasonable control system that can take advantage of a variable speed high efficiency electric blower in conjunction with an HX?

This isn't my first heating mod, but it would be my first water to air and I'm not sure of all the details on the control side of things.

Cheers
 
My water to air requires a 140f minimum to function halfway reasonable. When water temps for the boiler hit 155f and up the heating demand is satisfied much sooner. The OWB will of course start sucking up more wood but by nature may not be that much more costly than it currently is. In my area insurance companies want a back-up system in place to limit damages in a "freeze" scenario before they will issue a policy. My oil furnace is probably aged near yours but is still functional and I believe is rated at 120k btu. My system supplies my dhw before it supplies my heat load. The blower on my oil furnace is not high efficiency and runs on its own relay and T stat for the water portion of my heat demand so I can't really supply info for sophisticated controls. Here is a link for ebay for buried pex insulation if you are died in the wool diy though. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360066868785&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Best to you!
 
Thanks for the thoughts. Backup is covered by being able to heat the loop via oil fired hot water heater if needed so I'm covered. I have many KW's of spare single and three phase electric furnace coils from salvage so I might stick one in the furnace as a non water based back up.

I'm going to go ahead with this, I pulled a high efficiency blower with multi speed motor out of the dump and salvaged the controls so I'll patch something together from that.

Entertainment for a few days.

Winter comes fast.
 
Sometimes what we come up with is just a few years in advance of the market but maybe we like it that way. You are right about winter being fast. I still haven't forgotten the last one and there are signs the next one is right on schedule. I burned wood for the best part of six months and still had the fuel oil burner kick in a couple of times. Well... projects are calling...
 
Hello,

Here's what I did in a similar situation: I scored a nearly new Dayton garage heater for 100.00 at a garage sale, ripped out the furnace blower and put the fan coil heater (about 16" square) in it's place. the 1/25 hp fan is rated for continuous duty and accepts a vari-speed control. Running the fan at about 1/2 speed continuously produces gentle, even, quiet heat directed wherever I want it through the furnace ducting. I eliminated the furnace controls totally and the unit heater shares a loop off the boiler with a kick space heater in the kitchen (on monoflow tees)(10 dollars, lawn sale). I didn't remove the combustion chamber from the plenum because it would have been a bear and I think it's more of an obstacle than a restriction at such low fan speed. I think this works so well because the unit heater is not over sized( only about 40,000 btu's) so it doesn't short cycle and I can suppliment with space heating if needed although I rarely do. The kicker puts out 10,000 btu's on high speed. The boiler is running on propane at the moment with plans to add wood to the system. I'm a novice at this and did the installation in desperation at prices for used rads. I don't mind constructive criticism, so feel free. My only defense is that it works like a charm.

Ehouse
 
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