anyone use a felling lever

Wedges are better.

Hi -

I got a nice one that's still pretty shiny and new. It's fine for smallish trees that are too skinny for wedges.

I use the plastic wedges a great deal. I nearly always have 2 or 3 with me and use them very regularly. I'm cutting 16 to 24" Ash mostly.

For bucking i just stick them in behind the bar when the underside of the cut is unsupported. For felling I bang them in with a maul.

atb,
Mike

I woodn't waste my money. Like said, good on small trees that you can prolly push over anyway. They don't work on big stuff.

I would recommend getting the cant hook - but not for felling - for bucking. you mentioned trenching under logs and that sucks.

Last year I bought a Logrite cant hook, I think 48" and also got the removable log stand, or whatever its called and LOVE it, use it all the time, but again, not for felling.

I ordered directly from Logrite. Very pleased.

I second the cant hook suggestion.

My cant hook was used, and had no handle when I got it. It now sports a fairly straightish Hickory haft. The extra length on the handle comes in handy on occasion when a 'friend' happens to hang a tree up in the canopy. The hook can gently rock some free and keep my - ah, my friend that is, out of harm's way.

I use it nearly every trip into the woods.

I take a saw or 2, file, 2-3 wedges, cant hook, and often an axe in the woods.

I personaly like the small wedges but I do have a 4ft. bar on the truck for leverage. They work amazingly well once you get them inserted fully in the kerf. I do not like the falling lever concept for the fact that you can split the trunk if not used correctly or have bad wood.... Be careful! :gulp: Wedges can be safer.

Hi -


The cant hook thing on th felling lever is a bit small. I did use it.

I got the cant hook (collar and hook) from ebay for about $15 shipped. The hickory haft came from the woods. Still had bark on it in places.

I would go as long as you dare on handles.

ps- I've got family down in Adams county. We really like it down there.

ATB,
Mike P

I always carry an extra bar and several extra chains with me. If the saw gets pinched and is unable to be worked out, you then have the ability to unbolt the saw, install the new bar and chain, and cut it free.

If I'm cutting within a few hundred feet of the house or garage I just take 1 saw,file/handle,axe & walk to the area.Any farther away on property or at a different location I take those items plus 100ft rope,3 14ft log chains,2nd saw with case & tools,2nd axe,cant hook,peavy,extra chain & file,felling wedges,come-a-long with 50ft extra cable,hi-lift jack,5 gallon fuel mix,1 gallon bar oil,brush hook,maul,sledge & wedges in truck. Obviously what I have planned dictates how much & what gear I'll be using.

I have one of those felling bars with the cant hook; I picked it up at my local Husky dealer. They had it on the discount table - seems that someone ordered it in, and never picked it up. I thought, what the heck, might as well get it; it might be useful in some way....

I do use it a fair amount, but not as much as a felling lever... I grew up using wedges, and still use them when I'm felling anything over 16" or so. The lever is somewhat useful in the smaller stuff, but as was mentioned, if you check your felling direction, and make the cut well, most of the time a little extra push makes easy work of felling the smaller stuff.

If you use the lever for felling, my advice is to make a vertical cut where the lever is to be placed so that the lever is going into solid wood, and not bark. That way, it has more bite.

As for the cant hook, I do use that a fair amount. I use it if I have a minor hang up; I use the cant hook to rotate the tree a little at a time in order to get it out of the other tree. I must stress a 'minor' hangup though. Anything major requires further distance for safety reasons...

I often end up using it to free up trees that FIL gets hung up. He's a good guy, and I have free use of his woodlot, but he makes a mess at times when he fells I've tried to share some experience with him, but he seems to revert to his old ways at times....

Anyhow, I digress....

The other thing I use the cant hook for is to roll larger logs onto the choker, so I can hook the skidding winch to it. The thing to remember that as you encounter a larger diameter log, the hook has to move further up the lever, thus lessening your mechanical advantage...

So, if I was to do over, would I get one of these? Probably not.... Wedges and a good quality cant hook, like Logrite, for instance, would be my preference.

When you said you go alone my first thought was that the most valuable tool you could get and maybe for free is a buddy. No felling lever extra saw bar or anthing else can call 911. I have in the past and do still occasionally cut firewod alone but damn the more i drink about it the more dangerous it sounds in my head. If you can find someone nearby who burns wood you might find a good wood buddy or maybe convince an already established buddy to burn or just help you cut wood tell him you will buy the beer afterwards of course and wellfare light of course. Anyhow have fun with all your fancy new store bought tools I usually cut a wedge with my saw from the tree Im felling drive it in behind the saw and get to cuttin haul out 12 ish Foot logs with the tractor buck em off the forks on said tractor then the fun begins.

This past year I participated in two levels of "The Game of Logging" taught by Northeast Woodland Training (www.woodlandtraining.com - 802-362-0009). They teach incredibly safe and productive tree harvesting methods as developed in the 1960s by Soren Eriksson, a Swedish logger turned training instructor.

The Game of Logging prescribed methods for cutting (using a plunge cut) and use of wedges is the answer to this thread.

Classic Hearthstone said:

This past year I participated in two levels of "The Game of Logging" taught by Northeast Woodland Training (www.woodlandtraining.com - 802-362-0009). They teach incredibly safe and productive tree harvesting methods as developed in the 1960s by Soren Eriksson, a Swedish logger turned training instructor.

The Game of Logging prescribed methods for cutting (using a plunge cut) and use of wedges is the answer to this thread.

Click to expand...

I haven't used a plunge cut before, but I do have this bookmarked as what I figure a good quick example of it is like. Check it out and tell me if that's pretty much how they teach it at the GOL class you took:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoameGbMVt8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Well, pretty much (minus the dull saw, unsafe starting practice, SNEAKERS!) but that's the general idea. Much better the GoL full method.

Husky 455
Craftsman 18"
OOOOLD Homelite ('68)
Hearthstone II
and a lot of wood through the years

Danno77 said:

Classic Hearthstone said:

This past year I participated in two levels of "The Game of Logging" taught by Northeast Woodland Training (www.woodlandtraining.com - 802-362-0009). They teach incredibly safe and productive tree harvesting methods as developed in the 1960s by Soren Eriksson, a Swedish logger turned training instructor.

The Game of Logging prescribed methods for cutting (using a plunge cut) and use of wedges is the answer to this thread.

Click to expand...

I haven't used a plunge cut before, but I do have this bookmarked as what I figure a good quick example of it is like. Check it out and tell me if that's pretty much how they teach it at the GOL class you took:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoameGbMVt8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Click to expand...

Yep.
That's how you're taught in GOL. Guy aced it in that video!

Classic Hearthstone said:

Well, pretty much (minus the dull saw, unsafe starting practice, SNEAKERS!) but that's the general idea. Much better the GoL full method.

Click to expand...

Yeah, that guy was dusting up a storm. You'd think he'd take the time to get the chain in working order before he did a video (along with wearing proper PPE) I didn't even pay attention to how he started it, I'll have to look again. I'm not gonna pass too much judgement on that, because I drop start like 95% of the time, and I know you aren't supposed to do that.

But you're right - he nailed it. The cut allows to really get the hinge right and to take your time before you cut the "trigger" on the back cut. You don't have to "chase the hinge." There are 4 levels of "Game of Logging" - can't wait for the next 2.

Re: signature -
Oh yeah, and a monster maul.

CH, you can permanently make that signature by going to the top of any page and clicking on "your control panel".

Thanks!

I've been using an old hook that I put a new handle on. I wasn't sure how much the Hickory sapling would shrink so I left it about 8' long. I cut it to about 7' so if will lay down in the bed of my crew cab. The long handle is especially handy when the crown hangs up on other trees when felling. More torque and it keeps me further away from the action ; )

The Logrite is a nice tool. The price keeps me away.

ATB,
Mike

OhioBurner© said:

looking at the logrite what is the big difference with the extreme ones? Just stronger?

Click to expand...

I guess so. I got the regular 60" and I can't imagine me being able to apply enough force to bend or break it. Maybe if I pulled it with a winch... :lol: