BTU losses to the hearth and chimney

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karl

Minister of Fire
Apr 9, 2007
1,058
Huntington, West Virginia
I know it's been discussed here before, but the new search function doesn't appear to like me well.

When comparing the output of a stove to the same model configured as an insert, is there a rule of thumb as to what percentage of heat will lost to the hearth and chimney? I thought someone said 30% losses on an insert. I know the manufacturers give the rating based on the stove model not the insert.

Here's what I have; a PE Summit Insert in a cinder block chimney with one of the old heatilators as the fireplace. I have a metal block off plate that's sealed but no rock wool insulation.

Chimneysweeponline.com rates it as 48,392 btu over an 8 hour burn. They rate the Summit stove the same too. Is it reasonable to think I'm loosing 30% or 14,517 but because it's an insert?

I have this crazy idea that I want to do some weatherization projects to cut my heat load by 5100 btu. That's what a standard electric heater puts out. I quickly realized that the biggest gains might be made by lining the fireplace with rock wool to loose less heat that I'm already producing. If I can get this amount of savings, that's 3/4 cord less wood burnt over the four coldest months of the year.

Has anybody burnt an insert for a year or two and then added rock wool and seen a big difference?
 
Karl, I'll bump this to the top for you.

I have never run an insert but it seems reasonable there would be a benefit to adding the rock wool but I don't know how much.
 
Where did the 30% loss come from? Is this an exterior fireplace with it's back outdoors? If yes, I would try it and I would insulate on top of the damper-seal, blockoff plate.
 
You will get some heat loss with an insert to the fireplace because of the back of the insert blocked off to the room. You shouldn't get any more than a freestanding stove up the chimney, though, if you have a full reline and the throat of the chimney is blocked off and insulated. A blower on an insert will greatly limit the heat loss from the back by efficiently circulating a lot of the heat out into the room before it's lost through the second wall of the convection chamber.
 
I have several inserts in the family. I also have the Heatalator FP, but bolted the damper closed, and cut straight up though the sloped rear panel of the Heatalator so I could use 6" rigid liner all the way up.

I would guess that one is losing 30% minimum. a major portion of the radiated heat from the sides, back, top, and bottom is leaving the living area.

For that reason I added a small marble hearth extension, and installed a stove in the forward portion of the hearth, partly into the FP opening. I also added about 40 bricks, stacked 6" or so from the back of the FP. They get pretty warm, and help keep a bit more heat. I should probably add a bit of fiberglass insulation behind them.

I don't think I'd do another insert unless I was living a lot further South.

ATB,
Mike
 
What about wrapping the side and top of the insert with rock wool? I think this has been brought up before but people were worried about how this would effect the stove?
 
There are some peolpe that have done the insulating thing. I'm am concerned about the affect that insulating could have on the stove. I think it would violate the UL cert by not following the install guide.

I also know a few folks that run stoves on an extended hearth, then clean the pipe and set them back in the most of the way FP opening like an incert all Summer.
 
Todd said:
What about wrapping the side and top of the insert with rock wool? I think this has been brought up before but people were worried about how this would effect the stove?

That would be a very bad idea. If the insert is unable to radiate and lose heat it could be severely damaged. The best thing to do is to install an insulated block off plate and use your insert's blower.

Somewhat related, insulate your liner to prevent it from losing heat and cooling your flue temps.
 
The 30% I thought came from a moderator in here. Zzr7ky do you really think it's more than 30%? I know it's a lot because in the winter I don't have any snow on the roof around the chimney when I do on the rest of the roof.

I have taken the surround off with a fire going and the heat-a-lator is really warm, and that's a lot of think metal acting as a heat sink. It's also much bigger than the insert, so there is a great deal of clearance between the two.

I'm not going to wrap the stove. My two possible plans are to.

Line the heat-a-lator with rock wool on three sides and the top.

Or Line the heat-a-lator with rock wool on three sides and the top; and place polished aluminum panels in front of rock wool with a small air gap. Then adding some sort of blow to circulate air around the back of the stove.
 
With the blower running on low or above I don't think you are losing a thing. What would be lost to the masonry is being moved out into the room.

That's my story and I am sticking with it. Don't believe it? Go outside with an infrared thermo and shoot the chimney right behind the stove when it is burning. I don't have an insert anymore but have that 30-NC buried to the hilt in the fireplace and the back of the fireplace firebox has never measured more than 210 degrees. With no insert shell around it and the blower not running. And the chimney bricks outside are the same temp as the pile of bricks stacked next to it that I am gonna use for a sidewalk.
 
cmonSTART said:
Todd said:
What about wrapping the side and top of the insert with rock wool? I think this has been brought up before but people were worried about how this would effect the stove?

That would be a very bad idea. If the insert is unable to radiate and lose heat it could be severely damaged. The best thing to do is to install an insulated block off plate and use your insert's blower.

Somewhat related, insulate your liner to prevent it from losing heat and cooling your flue temps.

How is this a bad idea? I'm just curious since my PE is wrapped with rock wool behind the surround. I'm trying to heat the room, not my chimney. Laws of thermodynamics would say excess heat retained by insulation would go into the room. Curious to hear other opinions through.
 
BrotherBart said:
With the blower running on low or above I don't think you are losing a thing. What would be lost to the masonry is being moved out into the room.

That's my story and I am sticking with it. Don't believe it? Go outside with an infrared thermo and shoot the chimney right behind the stove when it is burning. I don't have an insert anymore but have that 30-NC buried to the hilt in the fireplace and the back of the fireplace firebox has never measured more than 210 degrees. With no insert shell around it and the blower not running. And the chimney bricks outside are the same temp as the pile of bricks stacked next to it that I am gonna use for a sidewalk.

I'm thinking the same thing, I always run my blower on high and from doing calculations on heat-loss if it cost me 30% more to run an insert I would be burning a heck of a lot more wood than I am now. I do have a blockoff plate and rock wool as previously stated though.
 
Huskyforlife said:
cmonSTART said:
Todd said:
What about wrapping the side and top of the insert with rock wool? I think this has been brought up before but people were worried about how this would effect the stove?

That would be a very bad idea. If the insert is unable to radiate and lose heat it could be severely damaged. The best thing to do is to install an insulated block off plate and use your insert's blower.

Somewhat related, insulate your liner to prevent it from losing heat and cooling your flue temps.

How is this a bad idea? I'm just curious since my PE is wrapped with rock wool behind the surround. I'm trying to heat the room, not my chimney. Laws of thermodynamics would say excess heat retained by insulation would go into the room. Curious to hear other opinions through.

It has to have a negative effect given that no stove designer ever tested the stove wrapped in insulation. When I installed a liner on my pre-EPA insert I also wrapped it all the way around with rockwool. How much of it running away and going up to 1400 degrees stove top temp was attributable to the liner, the rockwool or the crack in the firebox I found that appears to have been there for at least two years I do not know. But I know that bad boy didn't get that hot with just the crack. So the body wrap probably played some role in it. Along with the new monster draft.

I don't know. I didn't take out pieces and test. I junked the stove after 21 years of faithful service. It didn't owe me anything.
 
There are too many variables here to make an exact determination, but it could be said that, in general, installation of an insert into a exterior masonry fireplace can cause some substantial heat losses to the outside.

Many factors are at play, some have been mentioned. Keep in mind that most exterior masonry fireplaces lose heat to the outside even when nothing is burning in there! That is, the rear wall and other parts can, depending on the exact construction method and outdoor temp, lose much more heat than an insulated wall.

Let me address the blower part of the deal. There are various parts to this. Obviously, a blower will move some of the heat out of the air chamber which otherwise may have soaked through and then been lost to the chimney structure. However, there is another factor - when you blow air around the outside of a firebox, it cools the firebox and slightly quenches the fire. It also acts to hold heat into the stove - which then end up going up the chimney. Either or both of these factors can come into play. Wood stoves are generally not engineered to perfection in this manner - that is, the designers often make a nice stove and then convert it to an insert. I don't think many of them actually test their inserts into cold fireplaces - although when I visited Travis Industries, they had a cold test chamber (they were using it only for their built-in FPX).

It's a total guess, but I would still put that 15-30% number out there for a exterior fireplace in a very cold climate (New England). This figure would decrease as the outside temp rises. Keep in mind some of the same would pertain to a stove on the hearth or in the fireplace.....so the comparison is against a freestanding stove with exposed stove pipe and insulated chimney inside the home.

On the other hand - if the fireplace is interior, the entire setup might end up being more efficient than the norm, as the masonry soaks up and later releases much of the heat from the insert and flue.
 
Craig the fan idea is really more of a pipe dream than anything I would do. Also, I can't close my air control on the stove all the way when I'm burning it, so I have some control left to keep the stove from getting too hot.

Let me explain how the chimney is constructed. First, there are two fireplaces. One is in the basement and one is on the main floor. They are nearly on top of each other. Starting in the basement, there is a huge 'foundation' for the chimneys. This consists of a cinder block rectangular structure, that is at least 6 feet wide and 3 feet deep. Look at the attached pics and see how big the chimney is as it exits the roof. The granite blocks are only about 4 inches thick. It runs from the basement to the top of the chimney. Inside this sit the heat-a-lators. On top of the heat-a-lators there are 12"x12" terracotta chimney sections. They run from the each heat-a-lator to the roof. Inside these is my stainless steel chimney liner.

This creates essentially a hollow cinder block tube from the top of my insert to the roof. The only insulation I have between the insert and the tube is the metal heat-a-lator and the metal block off plate attached to the heat-a-lator.

The air gap between the liner and the terracotta isn't much, just a six inch liner in a twelve inch chimney, but the air gap between the chimney and the cinder block is tremendous. It's two to four feet. The air gap between the stove and the cinder block is several feet in some places. Therefore, I can't see how heat radiating from the stove is going to heat up the cinder block a great deal and then radiate in the house. Don't forget the cinder block is hollow too.

Look at the attached pics and see where there is no snow within a couple of feet of the chimney. Bart, I have to be loosing something to melt that much snow.
 

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